Shuts off while driving - Stalling

[Kev-o]

Having the same problem on a 98 i just picked up i will try the trouble shooting ive seen here first and the PMD last. Why could you not make your own wiring ext. weatherpak of course and mount a new pmd on a peice of aluminum for a heat sink? New to this site and can`t believe the info available thanks in advance!

[JohnC]

Originally posted by Kev-o:
Why could you not make your own wiring ext. weatherpak of course

Many have tried; many have failed. The problem is that the connecxtor on the FSD is not available separately.

When the lift pump fails it removes the cooling effect of the extra fuel flowing through the injection pump, hastening the inevitable.

[Kev-o]

Thanks JohnC, It`s amazing what a little electric fuelpump can do! I never gave much thought to the IP working harder when the tank is low, no lubricant, Lift pump weak or dead! I have very seldom run additive in my old 6.2 blazer.

[Kev-o]

Just got a new PMD (stanadyne) and wiring ext. and i am still searching for the right heat sink. I have it mounted on an old IP housing for now but seems to have cured the problem. The GM dealers in Red Deer want $708.00 cdn for the PMD (stanadyne) and i picked it up at central diesel services for $354.00 cdn, go figure. did all the toubleshooting first, probably good to ceck and clean all that stuff once in a while anyway. Thanks for the great site and all the members who share this info.

Cheers and have a happy new year.

Kev-o

[Lug]

Does the stalling problem begin with the engine stumbling first? My 94 'burb has began to have a stumble or hesitation at a constant throttle setting. The fuel filter sumps clean and the oil pressure switch activates the lift pump. I'll try a new fuel filter tonite or tomorrow.
Justin

[Lug]

Fuel filter seems to have cured the stumble for right now. Filter didn't seem that bad, but the bottom of the bowl was full of heavy sediment.
Justin

[Steve_M]

'95 Suburban 2500 4x4. 104K miles, mostly towing. Intermittent stalls, both at speed and while coasting to a stop. Usually restarts easily, though on recent event it had a hard time restarting and when it did start it would go a couple hundred yards and stall again. Had it towed to the dealer that time and they replaced the lift pump. Ran fine for a month and then started stalling on my wife who promptly called me while I was on a business trip seeking ways to fix it?

Anyway, please clarify PMD vs FSD? My Trouble Shooting book says "Pump Mounted Driver (Fuel Solenoid Driver)". So am I safe to conclude that they are one in the same?

I've gone through most of the "No Start, Stall, DTC 35 or P1216" tips, with the exception of the clear tube test for air in the injection system and the Circuit 439 test. I'm pretty confident that I'm not getting air in the injection as it shuts off abrubtly, whereas air in the injection system causes the engine to run rough or shudder. How the heck do you access the plug on the FSD to test for voltage on circuit 439 without removing the intake stuff above the injection pump?

Finally, there is an extended warranty coverage on the injection pump covering 11 years from the date of original sale or 120K miles. I'm the second owner so I might be past the 11 years, but definitely not 120K miles. I'm going to take it into the dealer first to see if they will just replace the injection pump. If not, I'm pretty sure it's the FSD and I will look into a new one mounted off the injection pump.

Comments/answers are appreciated.

[JohnC]

Anyway, please clarify PMD vs FSD? My Trouble Shooting book says "Pump Mounted Driver (Fuel Solenoid Driver)". So am I safe to conclude that they are one in the same?

Yes, the same.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

The connector can be removed by using a long, thin screw driver to release the clip-lock on the side of the connector and levering the plug off the PMD. Be aware, the chances of getting it back on again successfully are somewhere between slim and none!

Good luck with the warranty. My guess is you are at or over the 11 year limit, but, the dealer has some lattitude to press for warranty coverage. If you have a relationship wit a dealer, that's the one you want to go to.

Sometimes the dealer wants to see stored fault codes, so, whatever you do, don't pull the fuel solenoid fuse and crank the engine, as it will set codes....

[Steve_M]

As second owner, found that the vehicle was originally purchased in February '95. Dealer said no go on the warranty, yet I had the lift pump replace in February at another dealer when I was stranded. I told them the problem was intermitent over the past year, but had not stranded me. Again, no go. Itemized total for replament with "new upgraded injection pump" was $2990. I told them sorry, but there are much cheaper after market alternatives.

So, help me out on my decisions. Should I go the Sol D route, or replacement Stanadyne FSD with cooler? I do not face the cold weather start issue in SoCal, which could favor the Sol D. What's been the luck with the remote mounted Stan with a heat sink cooler attached?

[JeffsTowTruck]

Steve M ----I also have no warranty. The same problem has happen to me. 1st I replace the pump with a used one. The shop had a fit. The next time
I had read about the FSD Coooler here on this site and bought it. I have had no problem for about 3 years and a couple weeks ago the same intermition problem happen again. I called the local fuel injection co. and they wanted 330.00 or the Pump Driver, Black box. I bought mine from the Dealer at Cash Wholesale through a business for 315.00. All problems were solved. I never checked the codes due to this has happened to me 2 other times and both time it was the FSD and not the pump. My truck never set a code ( no idiot lights are on). I found out the pump is a good pump but the black box ( FSD) is what goes bad. Due to heat breaks it down, There is a pic. of the FSD /Cooler in my 6.5 photos.
Hope this helps and you get it fixed.

[chevss442]

I am going to relocate my FSD/PMD and put it on a cooler this weekend. So far it is working fine, but I want to try to avoid problems. My question is, is there a way to remove it from the injection pump without having to remove the intake manifold?

Thanks!

[BILLYDIESEL]

The 1994 Fuel Lift Pump System Operates On An Initial Fuel Prime When Starting And Then Is Controlled By The Engine Oil Pressure
Sensor When The Oil Pressure Has Reached About 40 To 60 Psi.
Check That First,if O.k Pump Is Going Down.
You Could Probably Put A New Driver On It.but Thats Just A Band Aid.

[BILLYDIESEL]

I am going to relocate my FSD/PMD and put it on a cooler this weekend. So far it is working fine, but I want to try to avoid problems. My question is, is there a way to remove it from the injection pump without having to remove the intake manifold?

Thanks!

REMOVE A/C COMPRESSOR,MARK YOUR INJECTION PUMP TO YOUR TIMMING COVER AND ROTATE IT TO PASS SIDE.USE A T15 TORX AND A 1/4 IN WRENCH
TO LOOSEN ALL TORX SCREWS."THE TRICK IS TO GRIND DOWN THE TIP OF
THE TORX BIT TO MAKE ENOUGH ROOM FOR YOU",AS SOON AS YOU SE THE
ACTUAL HEAD OF THE SCREW AND THE DRIVER MOD COME FLUSH "STOP"
THATS ALL YOU NEED TO GO.THEN GIVE THE MOD A COUPLE TAPS AND IT
WILL COME OFF.

[andro70]

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the ignition switch that has been discussed regarding stalling? If nobody knows the part number a picture or description of what it looks llike.

Thanks

[JohnC]

Do I have the same problem?

I don't think so. I have moved this post to a new thread: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=24299

[jilaroo2]

Untill last week I had intermittent "no start"problems ( hot or cold ) .
I installed a brand new remote FSD last week.
Drove it arround for a week ( close to home to make sure I would make it back) and no more problems.
Today I took it further away and guess what happened !
It wouldn't start when hot.
After a while got it started and then on my way home it stalled on the freeway!
No way to get it started again ! Switched to other PMD same problem.Had it towed home and in my driveway I tried it one last time (towtruck was still there)and it fired right up !
I noticed some problems with my ignition , so I'm thinking of changing the ignition harness.(partnumber:#26075995 ) $88 at www.rockauto.com.
Is there something else I should check before doing this and do I need to replace other things?
Any of you guys live near San Jose, CA.
I don't know how to keep this engine running.
Totally unreliable IMHO.

[skyway9517]

I have a '96 6.5TD with original engine/trans and 210,000 miles on it. I had the same problem, going down the road minding my own business, and the dumb thing just shuts off. No SES code either, you pull to the side of the road and it would usually start up in a minute or so... When the PMD starts becoming intermittent, it's getting ready to puke out on you at what is usally a most inoppertune time. Currently, I'm on my 3rd Stanadyne PMD aka FSD and they cost around $350.

The original mounting location of the PMD was on the side of the injector pump, down in the rocker valley under the intake manifold... Bad place to put an electronic module (heat and electonic module = trouble). The second one I remote mounted the module to the top on the engine and attached it to the upper intake, that one ultimately died too!! For the 3rd one, I went to SS Diesel (www.ssdieselsupply.com) and bought the BIG heat sinc, then to Kennedy Diesel (www.kennedydiesel.com) and bought the 72" harness extension and remote mounted the entire unit in an area that I could keep cool. I put mine in the cab of the vehicle right under the floor vent on the transmission hump. Did that 3 months ago and been working fine ever since through the summer heat!! Not pretty, but gets the jobs done by keeping it out of the multi-hundred degree engine compartment)

We ALL hate to throw $$$$ at "What if's" but this worked for my truck and problem... Just my 2 cents

[jilaroo2]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Before spending loads of $$$$$ as I did. Here's some tips that might be interesting of checking out. It only takes some of your time and might solve the problem. It worked for me ( after spending the money....)I bought my truck in April this year and I

[backbrakebilly]

Here's my problem...........
1996 GMC 6.5TD
Runs good every now and then but most of the time it Burps and stalls on a regular basis. When it stalls the check engine light comes on. Might crank right back up and it might take a while to crank back up. When it burps going down the road it starts rattling very bad like the valves are coming loose. Get it home and let it sit over night and the loud rattling goes away and it runs fine until it decides to act up again which could be at any time. Had the IP/FSD replaced not too long ago at the dealer. We read the codes after one of these episodes and the code that popped up first said the Fuel Temp. Sensor was the problem. Is this a possibility?
Looking for some place to start.............
Fuel Filter changed...........
Fuel flowing through bleed off.............
Next?

Thanks in advance for any help!!!

[ccraft12]

I have a 1997 2500 xcab, 65,000 miles, with the 190 hp version of the engine. I had the same intermittent stalling problems and it would start back up fine. I took it to the dealer and they checked the fuel flow and it was only the fuel filter. It has been three weeks since any stalling issues. Good luck.