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Thread: Body and door RUST.......

  1. #1
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    Default Body and door RUST.......

    Nobody talks about body rust on this forum! I dont mean repair and replacement of body and door panels, but what about rust that you can see starting to act on body panels, that with a little TLC, you could stop in its tracks. Maybe by spraying some WD-40 on it 4 or 5 times a year, or how about some everyday motor oil? I am not talking about the well advertised products like POR 15 that cost a fortune for the smalest 4 ounce container. Those require you to clean both sides of the affected area to remove the rust, and mine is starting in areas such as the botom of a door panel, where the panel is folded under itself, making it impossible to remove the rust. How about that soft waxy goop that GM used on top of the fuel tank? Anywhere on the top of the tank that it was applied to didn't rust. I cant be the only 6.5 owner who plans on keeping his (or hers) rig for more than 10 years, there is nothing out there to replace it! (If I could afford it!) I hope to hear from some of you guys who plan on keeping there rigs more than a few years.
    94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.

  2. #2
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    Sand it and paint it. Get the flaky rust off and use "rust paint" (for the life of me, I can't remember the actual name, but it works) - the stuff that seals the rust and actually turns it into a sort-of primer. The you can spray on a few coats of color, feathering it towards the good spots.
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Kennedy ECM & IC, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, 3.5" Kennedy Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor

  3. #3
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    RUST MORT

    It is an acid and turn the rust into a black oxide that can be sanded and primed then painted.
    Most larger parts stores carry it.
    I have used it many times in places around grometed windshields ect.

    Great stuff

    Comes in pints and quarts I believe

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
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    Anchorage, Ak
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    I use a product called cora-seal. its similar to the talked about above. it converts rust to a black oxide then you paint over it and it stays clear after drying on things that are not rusty.
    Main rig-1978 chevy 3/4 f/t 4x4 8" lift 38 14.5 16 toyo m/t's. BUILT 350(soon to be 6.2) quad batteries. front and rear 15k winches. lockers F/R. dana60 front full float corp 14 rear. th400/np203.

    donor rig. 1988 GMC K3500 140k miles, th400. IFS(read CRAP) semi float 14 rear. drove it 142 miles home at 17mpg and 1/4 quart of delo 400.

  5. #5
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    97 K2500 Suburban, 3.42, 245 Tires, Custom Oil cooling lines, Snorkel Removed and 4" Heath Exhaust and Crossover. TSM Rear Disc Conversion.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Warren96 View Post
    Nobody talks about body rust on this forum! I dont mean repair and replacement of body and door panels, but what about rust that you can see starting to act on body panels, that with a little TLC, you could stop in its tracks. Maybe by spraying some WD-40 on it 4 or 5 times a year, or how about some everyday motor oil? I am not talking about the well advertised products like POR 15 that cost a fortune for the smalest 4 ounce container. Those require you to clean both sides of the affected area to remove the rust, and mine is starting in areas such as the botom of a door panel, where the panel is folded under itself, making it impossible to remove the rust. How about that soft waxy goop that GM used on top of the fuel tank? Anywhere on the top of the tank that it was applied to didn't rust. I cant be the only 6.5 owner who plans on keeping his (or hers) rig for more than 10 years, there is nothing out there to replace it! (If I could afford it!) I hope to hear from some of you guys who plan on keeping there rigs more than a few years.
    Just one of them things ya dislike to talk about, I guess.

    It's like cancer. There is no cure, IMHO. Bite the bullet and get new sheet metal. Cab corners are one common area, front fenders are the worst probably, and then doors and bedside wheel wells.

    Once you have rust that has bubbled through your paint, or that you can see, it has probably penetrated through the sheet metal. Try all the goop and gimmiks you want, or save your money and put it into the proper repair.

    Try the finger test on your rust spot, oops...

    Shop around, I had my cab corners replaced and painted for 500 bucks, another 500 for new front fenders, painted and installed.

    These trucks are a dime a dozen, wrecking yards have doors piled up to the rafters, have a used good one painted and tack on your jewellery.

    To prevent where there is no rust, there are openings in virtually every panel, rear fender wheel wells, front, quarter panel, lower doors. Flush these areas out regularly, and apply a coat of grease in the fall in areas under chrome wheel wells (and similar trouble spots), to prevent future rust, for as long as you can anyhow. Some things, like death and taxes, seem inevitable.
    1994 K1500 Silverado ext cab short box
    stock L56 6.5 TD, F intake, 4L80E, 3.73 gears
    10149599 block, D-Tech PMD on 5288 pump
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    410,000 km

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Denville,New Jersey
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    Default You Guys Are The BEST!

    All of your replys have some GREAT info! This is just what the doctor ordered for this truck! It's been distressing ( say the least)to watch this one of a kind diesel slowly rust away. Now i can apply some time tested methods, to get more life out of this truck! Thanks a bunch guys (and gals)!
    94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.

  8. #8
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    Oh yeah paint wise, I work on old rusty steel saltwater ships, so have run the gamut of paint treatments. Tried corroseal lasts about a year or less. I currently use POR sure there are better treatments out there but this method is effective and is cost friendly. I have done boat bilges with POR with satifactory results.

    http://www.stoprust.net/

    cheers
    Nobby
    97 K2500 Suburban, 3.42, 245 Tires, Custom Oil cooling lines, Snorkel Removed and 4" Heath Exhaust and Crossover. TSM Rear Disc Conversion.

  9. #9
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    Brooker, FL
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    I'll forgive the sad misuses of my name.

    Anyway, rust isn't forever, even on a GM. The offending area should be sanded to remove as much as possible, then as prior posts, a phosphoric acid primer should be applied. When dry (~24 hours), the excess should be removed with mineral spirits and the area sprayed with cold galvanizing spray (three coats). Then the topcoats.

    Of course, with an all-aluminum motorhome, I don't sweat corrosion...but I do share your pain...
    '94 Barth 28' Breakaway M/H ("StaRV II") diesel pusher: Spartan chassis, aluminum birdcage construction. Peninsular/AMG 6.5L TD (230HP), 18:1, Phazer, non-wastgated turbo, hi-pop injectors, 4L80E (Sun Coast TC & rebuild, M-H Pan), Dana 80 (M-H Cover), Fluidampr, EGT, trans temp, boost gage. Honda EV-4010 gaso genset, furnace, roof air, stove, microwave/convection, 2-dr. 3-way reefer. KVH R5SL Satellite. Cruises 2, sleeps 4, carries 6, and parties 8 (parties 12 - tested).

    Stand-ins are an '02 Cadillac Escalade AWD 6.0L and an '06 Toyota Sienna Limited.

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