Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Manual Glow Controller :)

  1. #1

    Default Manual Glow Controller :)

    So I did it yesterday, got some good copper wire, a Ford starter solenoid from a 1970's Big Block, a nice illuminated spring loaded toggle switch, and some good electrical connectors from the electrical supply house.
    I can't take credit for the design but there are a few things I learned here. Being an electrician, I know the importance of a good solid electrical connection. There's no substitute when doing anything electrical, never cheap out and buy rinky dink connectors. If using stake-on fork or ring terminals, buy a GOOD set of crimpers don't hack it in with cheapo pliers.
    Anyway, I followed some info I got in one of the post here, and ran a new number 6 copper wire from one side of the new solenoid direct from the battery. Then from the other side of the solenoid to the factory 1988 glow plug controller. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the 2 little grey wires on the load side of the factory controller. CLEAN them with a small file, then install your brand new wire from the solenoid to this controller then reinstall the 2 grey leads which feed your glow plugs... make sure you have a good lock washer in there.
    I ran a number 12 stranded wire into the cab of the truck for the switch with an inline 20 amp fuse. Come back off the switch from the ACC thats stamped on the switch to the new solenoid small terminal marked "S". Leave the one marked "I" alone. The old ford solenoids are grounded through the base of the solenoid so if you mount this against a good grounded piece of metal under the hood there's no need to run a ground back to the battery. The BEST thing to do here would be to find a good grounded piece of metal accesible from both sides to nut and bolt the solenoid to. Then run a number 12 awg wire from one of the mounting bolts direct back to the battery. Make sure you ground the switch inside the cab if neccesary.This is simple run a new number 12 awg wire from the ground terminal on the switch to a nice shiny spot that you just scraped with a file under the dash and connect a nice new ring terminal to finish it off. Guess what, when you just strip the wire about an inch and crank a screw down on it thats hack, give yourself a good ground.
    Now comes the good part and a comparison too. Turn on ignition, let factory glow controller do its thing, but watch the volt guage on the dash. It jumps down quite a bit. After factory glow cuts out bang your new switch and watch the meter again, it comes down half as much, this is EXACTLY what you want. This also allows you to glow your plugs before even turning on your ignition. But wait, the way we wired it the WAIT light on the dash still comes up Nice.
    Its a fairly cold day today in Rhode Island, about 27 this morning when I started up the dually, it never started so good. I glowed it with AC60g's for a while and it started up within 2 revolutions, with zero smoke, what a blessing. Ill post some pics in about an hour or so. Total time to install, about a careful hour. And don't forget to be careful with the factory glow controller when working on it, one side of it has 12 volts waiting to bite you hard at all times if you don't disconnect your batteries. Hope this helps.
    1988 C3500 2x4 extended cab 6.2 N/A TH400 Dually

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Port Huron, MI
    Posts
    105

    Default

    could you email a copy of the digram or whatever you used to do this. thanks

    allformike@comcast.net
    89 K2500 6.2 4X4 3/4 TON 4x4 TH400
    87 DODGE D50 360 727 TORQUE FLITE FORD 9'' MANY MODS--- IT'S FOR SALE

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    46

    Default

    This is exactly what I was looking to do, anybody done this with a 82-84 system? The controllers seem much different, or can you just tap into the relay on the fender? I suppose some further research and wiring examination is in order, sounds like a terrific mod though...

    -Martin
    '82 K5 "Durasaurus" Blazer, Newly rebuilt 6.2, 6.5 heads, 90 ld DB2, 6" Pro Comp Lift, 35" BFG Muds, Rustoleum Rattle Can deluxe

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,382

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mstockton View Post
    This is exactly what I was looking to do, anybody done this with a 82-84 system? The controllers seem much different, or can you just tap into the relay on the fender? I suppose some further research and wiring examination is in order, sounds like a terrific mod though...

    -Martin
    The 1982-84 glow systems are the easiest to convert to manual glow. The separate relay is already there... Just wire in a switch to the control terminals on that relay (switched 12v ignition & ground). The "Wait to Start" lamp on the dash receives power from the harness that powers each glow plug, so it'll work like you expect without doing anything special.

    Jim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    The 1982-84 glow systems are the easiest to convert to manual glow. The separate relay is already there... Just wire in a switch to the control terminals on that relay (switched 12v ignition & ground). The "Wait to Start" lamp on the dash receives power from the harness that powers each glow plug, so it'll work like you expect without doing anything special.

    Jim

    Which of the 2 small terminals would you wire in the power side? Wire color? I would like to do the same in my 84 since I installed 60G plugs with the factory controller and relay before I found this site. It starts in 30deg weather but she struggles if its not plugged in
    1984 K2500 6.2 AOD

    2001 Dodge Cummins

    Too many Mustangs

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Brighton, CO, USA
    Posts
    443

    Default

    It should be like the original one on my 82...

    The terminal toward the front of the truck is hot when the key is turned to run. The terminal toward the windshield is grounded to close the relay contacts, so the easiest way is to wire a momentary push button switch to the back terminal, connected to a suitable ground.

    To use it, turn the key to run, push the button to complete the ground and the glows activate. This should also turn on the glow plug light on the dash.

    Hope that helps.

    Joe.
    2006 Chevy K2500 LLY Duramax/Allison Crew Cab!
    1996 Chevy C2500 6.5 auto Ext. Cab LB

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Lecanto, FL
    Posts
    374

    Smile 6.2 Command post on the Road - Glow Controller InPut

    I'm on the road w/ the 6.2 Command post C30 Van In Gulf Shores AL. Before Holiday FL (400 Miles) I left I tightened the Alternator belt and didn't have a problem until I got of the interstate 30 Miles form my destination. My 82 has manual glow I learned how to do from here maybe 5 years ago-


    Here's what I need:

    I've noticed a time or two the glow plug light comes on after the truck is up & running.-

    I drop off the high way start driving at stop & go speeds & the controller start lighting the glow plugs every once & awhile-

    And when it does & the lights are on Sqeek city on the belt - took 15 extra minutes getting to my destination.

    Upon inspection the belt had stretched some more- the alternator hadn't slipped-

    I went to NAPA & bought the premium belt and I'm about to put it on -

    When the belt is not slipping the alternator charges right up against the red

    Once my truck is warm it will start with out glow- so I don't have to to a R&R & on the road- to manual controller switch-

    The Big Question: What is the easiest way to "disarm" the controller from glowing. Is there a spot on the fuse box?

    I don't want the thing to go hay wire on the trip home (kinda want a quick fix & get back to family time- Remember it's in a van? I do New G60 Plugs install I'll go put the belt on & check back in

    Happy New Year!
    96 1500 6.5 Silverado

    81 Malibu ~ 75 Vega Wagon

    Lecanto, Florida

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Toggle switch in the power wire to the inhibit switch,Had one on the dash of my 85,Virtually ended the glow plug issues,GM had the winking eye system(I think thats what it was called) which would kick the glowplugs on while going down the road.
    Shane

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Lecanto, FL
    Posts
    374

    Default What Color Wire

    Might you recall what color wire that winker was?
    96 1500 6.5 Silverado

    81 Malibu ~ 75 Vega Wagon

    Lecanto, Florida

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    56

    Default

    No I dont remember what color the wire was,Just find the power wire for the inhibit switch,IIRC, this will keep it from kicking the plugs on.
    Shane

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Stony Plain, AB
    Posts
    53

    Default

    My '82 dually has the same issue, glow plug light fades in and out while driving. What's the inhibit switch--is that the 6-pin cylinder toward the back of the engine?
    1982 GMC Sierra Grande Camper Special
    6.5TD: ARP head studs, DSG girdle kit, DB2 turned up 1/8th, '97 Cummins intercooler, custom 3" downpipe to 4" straight exhaust, wastegate @12psi, boost and pyrometer, NV4500 with mech. clutch, twin-sticked NP205, D60 front/D70HD DRW with 4.10 gears, '93 serpentine belt setup
    in progress

    1997 Chev Express G3500
    6.5TD 15 passenger van

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    72

    Default

    So I can't seem to make a new thread so I am posting in this one, the closest subject I can find.

    After months of work I have finally replaced the engine in my 91 burb. An old 6.5 repower went out, an new 6.5 repower in. 6.5 block, all original 6.2 components. Now that I'm at the finish line, I can't get it to start. Followed TDP air-lock guidlines, no luck. Cranking power is weak near the end but I figure that's to be expected with the starter and batteries being used again and again. Still never caught even once, so I don't think that's the issue.

    So I checked the voltage on a glow plug. I put the + on the glow plug wire and the - on the - battery terminal. Nothing (on "ON" cycle of engine when glow plugs normally light). Should that circut work that way? Is that indicative of no glow plug action? Can't really check the dash light as that is in pieces. Would no glow plugs lead to no start ever?

    Also, I'm worried that if it is not lighting the glow plugs it may be that the controller is not properly grounded. The old studs on a water passage cover that it mounts to were replaced with new ones that are coated black. Not paint just that black color that some bolts come in. Could this color/coating be inhibiting my ground and thus the controller?

    After months of hard work I just want to here that diesel roar to life and this final frustration is killing me!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by flomulgator View Post
    So I can't seem to make a new thread so I am posting in this one, the closest subject I can find.

    After months of work I have finally replaced the engine in my 91 burb. An old 6.5 repower went out, an new 6.5 repower in. 6.5 block, all original 6.2 components. Now that I'm at the finish line, I can't get it to start. Followed TDP air-lock guidlines, no luck. Cranking power is weak near the end but I figure that's to be expected with the starter and batteries being used again and again. Still never caught even once, so I don't think that's the issue.

    So I checked the voltage on a glow plug. I put the + on the glow plug wire and the - on the - battery terminal. Nothing (on "ON" cycle of engine when glow plugs normally light). Should that circut work that way? Is that indicative of no glow plug action? Can't really check the dash light as that is in pieces. Would no glow plugs lead to no start ever?

    Also, I'm worried that if it is not lighting the glow plugs it may be that the controller is not properly grounded. The old studs on a water passage cover that it mounts to were replaced with new ones that are coated black. Not paint just that black color that some bolts come in. Could this color/coating be inhibiting my ground and thus the controller?

    After months of hard work I just want to here that diesel roar to life and this final frustration is killing me!
    The 6.2/6.5 Tech Forum is not open to new threads by general members. Admin's and Mod's only. Replies can be made by any member, though.

    I copied your post to a new thread in the 6.2L forum. Although you have a 6.5L, it is in a 6.2L configuration, which essentially makes it a 6.2L (only with bigger holes).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Oh thanks! I didn't know about that rule, and it didn't give any hint as to why I couldn't post (since I'm a n00b I thought it was my account or something).

  15. #15

    Default check this out

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeandwendy74 View Post
    So I did it yesterday, got some good copper wire, a Ford starter solenoid from a 1970's Big Block, a nice illuminated spring loaded toggle switch, and some good electrical connectors from the electrical supply house.
    I can't take credit for the design but there are a few things I learned here. Being an electrician, I know the importance of a good solid electrical connection. There's no substitute when doing anything electrical, never cheap out and buy rinky dink connectors. If using stake-on fork or ring terminals, buy a GOOD set of crimpers don't hack it in with cheapo pliers.
    Anyway, I followed some info I got in one of the post here, and ran a new number 6 copper wire from one side of the new solenoid direct from the battery. Then from the other side of the solenoid to the factory 1988 glow plug controller. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the 2 little grey wires on the load side of the factory controller. CLEAN them with a small file, then install your brand new wire from the solenoid to this controller then reinstall the 2 grey leads which feed your glow plugs... make sure you have a good lock washer in there.
    I ran a number 12 stranded wire into the cab of the truck for the switch with an inline 20 amp fuse. Come back off the switch from the ACC thats stamped on the switch to the new solenoid small terminal marked "S". Leave the one marked "I" alone. The old ford solenoids are grounded through the base of the solenoid so if you mount this against a good grounded piece of metal under the hood there's no need to run a ground back to the battery. The BEST thing to do here would be to find a good grounded piece of metal accesible from both sides to nut and bolt the solenoid to. Then run a number 12 awg wire from one of the mounting bolts direct back to the battery. Make sure you ground the switch inside the cab if neccesary.This is simple run a new number 12 awg wire from the ground terminal on the switch to a nice shiny spot that you just scraped with a file under the dash and connect a nice new ring terminal to finish it off. Guess what, when you just strip the wire about an inch and crank a screw down on it thats hack, give yourself a good ground.
    Now comes the good part and a comparison too. Turn on ignition, let factory glow controller do its thing, but watch the volt guage on the dash. It jumps down quite a bit. After factory glow cuts out bang your new switch and watch the meter again, it comes down half as much, this is EXACTLY what you want. This also allows you to glow your plugs before even turning on your ignition. But wait, the way we wired it the WAIT light on the dash still comes up Nice.
    Its a fairly cold day today in Rhode Island, about 27 this morning when I started up the dually, it never started so good. I glowed it with AC60g's for a while and it started up within 2 revolutions, with zero smoke, what a blessing. Ill post some pics in about an hour or so. Total time to install, about a careful hour. And don't forget to be careful with the factory glow controller when working on it, one side of it has 12 volts waiting to bite you hard at all times if you don't disconnect your batteries. Hope this helps.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJq5LdAGor0

    heres a video of the controller very easy to make.
    1988 C3500 2x4 extended cab 6.2 N/A TH400 Dually

  16. #16

    Default controller

    This is a great post!

    I watched the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJq5LdAGor0

    but I am curious if anyone knows which wire and what size resistor to use to lengthen the cycle to around 10-12 seconds.

    thanks

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Panama City, FL
    Posts
    54

    Default Hmmm . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeandwendy74 View Post
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJq5LdAGor0

    heres a video of the controller very easy to make.
    Does this apply to the '82, wondering as another post here said that one was simpler?
    1982 K5 Blazer 4wd w/ 6.2 turbodiesel (Banks Sidewinder) w/ rear disk brakes, more to come . . .

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,792

    Default

    On my '84 I used the 85-93 glow controller and then added the resistor mod. Both of these were outlined in the Feature articles back in the day. This combined with my Quick heat glow plugs got me fully automated reliable and consistent cold starts at about any temp. It also made it so I could trust just about anyone start the truck without fear of issues.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •