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Thread: Upper Ball joints?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts
    137

    Post

    Both my upper ball joints are shot. I ordered new Moogs and they should be here tomorrow. They were only $67 shipped to my door from Express Auto Parts. The alignment shop wanted about $250 to install both ball joints. I know the OEM's are riveted in, and that's not a problem as I have air tools. I have a wide tie rod fork that should work to drive them out of the taper and an aceteline torch if they need a little persuasion. Are there any other tools I need? I saw in a search some said they wished they had a ball joint press. What is that? I've never heard of one before. Do I need one? Any other advice and tips are welcome.
    1994 Chevy 6.5TD 1500 Z71 4X4 Extended Cab Short Box Pickup, 3.73 gears & FSD cooler 5W-40 Rotella - I rebuild Snowmobile shocks WWW.shock-service.com

  2. #2
    NH2112 Guest

    Post

    A ball joint press is something really handy to have when doing ball joints on an IFS truck because there's not a large piece of cast steel that you can whack with a hammer to break things loose.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Autom...06985883QQrdZ1

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Arlington,MA U.S.
    Posts
    1,666

    Post

    Uppers are very easy, grind the heads off then punch the rivets out. You can hammer on the stud of the old joint as it's going in the trash anyways
    1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
    06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live

  4. #4
    CareyWeber Guest

    Post

    Originally posted by Dave Schumacher:
    Both my upper ball joints are shot. I ordered new Moogs and they should be here tomorrow. They were only $67 shipped to my door from Express Auto Parts. The alignment shop wanted about $250 to install both ball joints. I know the OEM's are riveted in, and that's not a problem as I have air tools. I have a wide tie rod fork that should work to drive them out of the taper and an aceteline torch if they need a little persuasion. Are there any other tools I need? I saw in a search some said they wished they had a ball joint press. What is that? I've never heard of one before. Do I need one? Any other advice and tips are welcome.
    Carey

    My ball joint fork is 1" KD # 2287.

    Carey

  5. #5
    Hansh Guest

    Post

    X2 what Joey said. They are easy to do. Save the 250.00 and buy any extra tools you may need. A small grinder may be nice to finish off the rivit heads. Did both of mine is a couple hours. Hardest part is getting the old rivits out of the control arm, a good air punch works good.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    NE CT
    Posts
    506

    Post

    I concur, uppers are easy.
    1996 K1500 6.5, 1984 K5 6.2 Banks both \"Stock\" (tilting hand side-side like Sammy Davis in Cannonball Run)<br /><br />Got Boost?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts
    137

    Post

    That's great news, I have a 1" fork, die grinder and air hammer. UPS tracking says parts will be here today and its supposed to be 45 degress today. Perfect for changing ball joints. Thanks for your insight guys!
    1994 Chevy 6.5TD 1500 Z71 4X4 Extended Cab Short Box Pickup, 3.73 gears & FSD cooler 5W-40 Rotella - I rebuild Snowmobile shocks WWW.shock-service.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts
    137

    Post

    New parts didn't show up till today. Started to take apart yestrerday and found I had no wrench to fit 27 mm nuts on bottom of ball joints. What do you guys use? To get on it with a socket the drive shafts have to be removed. Can't get on it with a 15" cresent wrench. I am going to go look for a 27mm or a 1 1/16" box end wrench today.
    1994 Chevy 6.5TD 1500 Z71 4X4 Extended Cab Short Box Pickup, 3.73 gears & FSD cooler 5W-40 Rotella - I rebuild Snowmobile shocks WWW.shock-service.com

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