Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 27

Thread: industrial injection turbos lb7

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default industrial injection turbos lb7

    has any one heard anything about the industrial injection turbos for the lb7's

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Janesville, Wisconsin
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Yeah, the Silver Bullet.
    SWB Ex Cab K2500HD 04.5 Lt/Amsoil B2B/LT235-85R16/ARE Tonneau/BedRug/Evans NPG+/Putco White-Out/VR-Straps/HIR 9011&12/Mag-Hytec Diff/Cat delete pipe/Built Trans/Sun Coast 6SPD/Sun Coast Transfercase Brkt/Sun Coast Filter Lock/SD Rods/Racor Pre/OEM 3" Ext./MikeL Trans Cooler & Snake Oil(C3 Oiler)/Cognito Braces/TTS Tuning/Magnaflow 4"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    dose anyone have one what kinda boost dose it put out what is the power range
    dose it spool up fast
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Janesville, Wisconsin
    Posts
    226

    Default

    It spools faster than stock. Once lit watch out the truck won't be going straight down the road. Runs upward of 50-55psi depending on the tune and fuel system. Supports around 600hp at the rear wheels.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    do you have a 62 or 64
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Janesville, Wisconsin
    Posts
    226

    Default

    I think both of them are the 64mm.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    did you have to buy direct
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,792

    Default

    linchhummer,

    Send me the Boost valve and I'll check it out. They absolutely DO work.

    What are you seeing for boost and what are you using for a gauge?


    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves, and a Kennedy diesel boost valve that doesn't do anything
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    i bought the boost valve from yall in i think December of last year once i got it i threw it on my truck with the arrow facing the wastegate before i put it on i was getting about 22 pounds in hot #6 on my edge chip reading the pressure from my edge gauge and from my ats boost gauge (tapped into the compressor housing) after i put it on i was getting the same 22 psi so i screwed the two ends together which did nothing. i then called yall and you said that you hadn't had that problem and that if i had put it on backwards it would be building too much boost you said maby it wasn't getting enough fuel. so i changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter and tried again getting the same results. i then called again and could not get anyone to call me back about. so then i took the boost valve and turned it backwards and pluged the hole at the end with a piece of a welding rod that fit the hole. it prity much it just acts as a plug and the wastegate is inactive my fix builds about 35 pounds of boost but i could have just bought a .35 cent plug. i have heard very good reviews from friends but ive had no luck. Scott Osborne
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Morrisville, VT, USA
    Posts
    2,401

    Default

    Scott - Just read J K's post on the Advertiser's Forum. You might want to go there if you haven't already done so. Makes me realize how un-important my diesel issues are. I called John last summer with a programer question, not having read that post. I'm surprised that he can function at all with all that stress.
    FWIW, D W
    2008 Jaco Seneca 35' motor home (Kodiak 5500 chassis). Pulling 18' Wells Cargo enclosed trailer, with 2016 Miata in it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    thanks jake that explains a lot and now i know why he dosent have the
    Diesel Pull Off 2005+
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    9

    Question Boost issue

    I was interested in hearing of someone else having a low boost issue wither their LB7. I have a 2001 GMC LB7 and was considering adding one of John’s boost valves too. After visiting his site I thought I would take his advice and add a boost gauge and while I was at it I might as well see what it was doing stock. Sorry, I don’t want to ramble… long story short, stock I am lucky to see 4 to 5 pounds under normal flat land driving and 7 to 10 if I am over ½ throttle going up hill at 2,300 RPM. So I decide to do a short test dive with the hose disconnected and plugged. That only gave me about 5 to 7 pounds light throttle but 15 to 20 on the same hill test. Wow what a difference but how would you ever get it to boost the bottom end and what is a safe top limit? I have read that you can peak to 25 to 30 without problems. And if you can peak to 25 to 30 why do I need one of John’s boost valve? I can’t get near that for some reason. I am still running stock exhaust and stock intake. Does this seem normal? I have pressure checked the gauge and it is on the money.

    Thanks for the input!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie J View Post
    I was interested in hearing of someone else having a low boost issue wither their LB7. I have a 2001 GMC LB7 and was considering adding one of John’s boost valves too. After visiting his site I thought I would take his advice and add a boost gauge and while I was at it I might as well see what it was doing stock. Sorry, I don’t want to ramble… long story short, stock I am lucky to see 4 to 5 pounds under normal flat land driving and 7 to 10 if I am over ½ throttle going up hill at 2,300 RPM. So I decide to do a short test dive with the hose disconnected and plugged. That only gave me about 5 to 7 pounds light throttle but 15 to 20 on the same hill test. Wow what a difference but how would you ever get it to boost the bottom end and what is a safe top limit? I have read that you can peak to 25 to 30 without problems. And if you can peak to 25 to 30 why do I need one of John’s boost valve? I can’t get near that for some reason. I am still running stock exhaust and stock intake. Does this seem normal? I have pressure checked the gauge and it is on the moneyThanks for the input!
    ill sell you one for half whatever he sells his for its a kd boost valve
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,398

    Arrow

    There are two forces acting on the wastegate valve located in the turbocharger's exhaust housing. Those two forces are boost pressure via the wastegate actuator and turbine drive pressure. Turbine drive pressure is the exhaust backpressure developed as the engine's exhaust is forced through the turbine. Drive pressure can approach 2 or more times the level of boost pressure developed.

    As the engine is put under load, both turbine drive pressure and boost pressure rise. These forces are each trying to compress the spring in the wastegate actuator and open the wastegate.

    A boost valve prevents boost pressure from reaching the wastegate actuator till that pressure reaches whatever pre-set value the boost valve is set to. So, when equipped with a boost valve, the only force trying to open the wastegate is turbine drive pressure, up to a point. A boost valve allows the turbocharger's wastegate to remain closed until the pre-set maximum boost pressure is achieved. Then, it'll allow the wastegate to open.

    Depending on how the valve is calibrated, it allows the max boost pressure developed by the turbocharger to build quicker and somewhat higher, depending on the preset adjustment. I've seen this on the two engines I've experimented with.

    I've heard of a few factory turbochargers grenading when using a wired-shut actuator, which produced a max boost pressure at or near 40-psi. I limit mine to 35. On Lil Red, I also have a Banks Big Head adjustable actuator. On this truck, simply adding a boost valve allowed a quicker and more predictable boost response, and it increased max boost pressure a couple of psi. This is a 600+ rwhp truck that is running the factory turbo.

    Just driving around unloaded in normal and legal fashion, you'll not likely see any difference when installing a boost valve, and I wouldn't recommend one for that type of truck use. A boost valve benefits those who use a power product and tow moderate to heavy or for competition.

    Jim

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,792

    Default

    One BIG key to remember here:

    ALWAYS tune your boost with the largest tune available, and when it stops gaining stop adjusting. Unhooking teh wastegate or turning up the valve beyond regular gains may not hurt you, but if you add more fuel, the boost will likely go up.

    I have quite a few of these valves out there, and I know and my customers know that they work. The valve in question works as I checked it myself. Unfortunately, the owner feels that it does not work and it looks like he wants to tell the world in his signature...
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by linchhummmer View Post
    ill sell you one for half whatever he sells his for its a kd boost valve
    I'd jump on that deal, unless it's been modified or damaged in any way.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    9

    Cool more boost

    Thanks for the input! I think we are getting a little off track though. I wasn’t asking if the Kennedy boost valve works, I see the principal behind it. My big question was if it is normal for a stock LB7 to be incapable of producing more than 25 pounds of boost and what would be a safe cut-off point for the boost. Remember I unhooked the hose from the actuator and plugged it so I didn’t lose any boost and tried driving tests and could not produce more than 22 to 25 pounds under any condition. I’m even talking about flat out 4 mins of pedal to the floor on a 15% grade and then only to about 23 pounds and had made it through all of the gears and hit 80+ mph.

    I this normal stock? I am not looking for more performance just maximum efficiency for max MPG.

    If I go to a bigger exhaust do you think that would increase turbo performance? If it did I would absolutely want a boost valve installed, I just can’t get it near the danger zone on it’s own!

    Thanks,

    Jimmie

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,792

    Default

    If you have stock fueling then that is likely all teh "huff" that you have. Adding a chip will help drive the turbo. At a point you will likely set a code for going too far if you don't have proper tuning though.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    I'd jump on that deal, unless it's been modified or damaged in any way.
    like john said it works just fine and is good as new ill sell it for 47.50 plus whatever it costs for shipping.
    02 lb7 two stage k&n with afe filter, thermo tech, hot edge with attitude, 75 ddp injectors, ats protorque propane, bd manifold, mbrp, ats waterboy, 150 fass, tie rod end sleeves

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by linchhummmer View Post
    like john said it works just fine and is good as new ill sell it for 47.50 plus whatever it costs for shipping.
    Sold. PM or email me an address and shipping amount.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •