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Thread: exhaust manifold bolt removal and head removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    27

    Default exhaust manifold bolt removal and head removal

    The driver side manifold needs to be replaced on my 84. (rot holes) I have another one ready to go on. My truck spent 7 of its last years as a plow and sander truck only. My boss sold it to the previous owner in excellent condition and I bought it back and brought it back to a daily driver again but naturally the sand and salt took its toll

    The bolts are in very bad shape and they have a ot of rust on them. I cannot even get a socket on some and the rust has rounded them. Does anyone have any suggestions to take them out? Or is my best bet to pull the head?

    If I have to pull the head I would like someone to give me a general walk through so I don't take out anything that isn't neccessary. From what I have seen it looks like I have to take off the PS bracket (no AC) injector lines, intake manifold, glow plug wires and the rockers and push rods

    I have never taken a 6.2 apart before but from what I can see do I have to take the IP pump out?
    1984 K2500 6.2 AOD

    2001 Dodge Cummins

    Too many Mustangs

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Soak them REAL WELL with PB Blaster. Then, get a set of Craftsman Bolt-Outs (Sears store or Sears online). They are like inside-out twisted/conical EZ-Outs. They work as advertised. Be advised, though. They will twist off the studs if you go too quick, or the nuts are too frozen. Then, you'll have to remove the manifold and use a regular EZ-Out. Really no way around it, unless you cut the manifold off around the stud/nut. If you are removing the heads, do it with the heads on a bench. Access and view angle is very important in preventing twisted bolts.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,294

    Default

    I have coaxed out a few sets of badly rusted bolts and generally they are not rusted into the head.

    The suggestions Maverick has offered are right on. Loads of skunk juice and patience is in order.

    A good healthy rap with a ball peen hammer on the end of each bolt can some times help start the process. These bolts have a swaged thread that locks them into the head so they dont rattle loose.

    The last one I had, I took a die grinder and knocked the heads off the bolts then slid the manifold off the head then took the bolts out with a pipe wrench. Worked sweet, just took a little while is all.

    Good luck with the little beast

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Fort St. John BC Ca
    Posts
    115

    Thumbs up Bolt removal

    Lots of skunk juice and something like these http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100512 and patence
    1985 K1500-sold
    79 dually 4x4-soon to have modified 6.2/6.5l turbo
    1996 shortbox-extended cab 2WD 1500 6.5L

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by wade-ve7trw View Post
    Lots of skunk juice and something like these http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100512 and patence

    That's what my Craftsman Bolt-Outs looks like. They work.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Woodstock GA
    Posts
    114

    Default

    I've used the same method as Robyn several times. (Us old-time mechanical people all must have learned from the same old geezers huh Robyn? hehehe) Works pretty good if you don't mine messing up the exhaust manifold. Since it's already shot, that's what i'd do. Works better than you might think.
    Don
    1993 6.5 3500 DWR Ext Cab
    205,000 miles, GM-8 turbo, 3" downpipe,
    straight exhaust to duals, '97 Airbox,
    fabb'd mech boost controller, 1/4 turnup on 4911, triple gauges

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    I have coaxed out a few sets of badly rusted bolts and generally they are not rusted into the head.

    The suggestions Maverick has offered are right on. Loads of skunk juice and patience is in order.

    A good healthy rap with a ball peen hammer on the end of each bolt can some times help start the process. These bolts have a swaged thread that locks them into the head so they dont rattle loose.

    The last one I had, I took a die grinder and knocked the heads off the bolts then slid the manifold off the head then took the bolts out with a pipe wrench. Worked sweet, just took a little while is all.

    Good luck with the little beastRobyn

    Wow I have never seen those extractors before. I will definately try them. Also I use PB Blaster for a lot of stuff so I definately have that on hand.

    As for your last suggestion I was thinking that same thing today. I'm gonna try the extractors first but if that doesn't work I'm gonna cut the heads of the bolts off and then try to twist the studs out. Luckily I am a patient person lol so I'll be working these methods rather than take the head off


    Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. I'll keep everyone posted as to how it goes but unfortunately I won't be starting till next week since the tranny in my Dodge went the way of the buffalo last snow storm so the 84 is up for the weekend storm and my daily driving duties
    1984 K2500 6.2 AOD

    2001 Dodge Cummins

    Too many Mustangs

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