arp head studs

[brian wafer]

hi and thanks for all the response. will be installing head gaskets tomorrow night, napa could not furnish fel pro they had victor heinz ( not sure if spelled right). i got 6.5 gasket for my 6.2 after reading the artical in your book,my head dosn,t have small peanut like coolant pass. i have arp studs want too install right,teflon tape or thread sealer for the block threads,should studs be torque or just snug. for the nuts i don,t have the speacial moly grease, would motor oil do and is the torque the same as my chilton, i believe its 3 steps to 90lbs. do they need manifold gasket wasn,t any when i took apart. what about the camshaft bolt should it be torque to 65lbs with thread locker with dsg gears or more. every thing is clean and ready too put together working on a motor stand sure beats under the hood.thank you.

[john8662]

Studs...

Use only ARP's specific thread sealant for their head studs.

I also recommend ARP's molly grease as well, cannot advise elsewise.

Here goes....

Tap and clean all block threads for head bolts/studs. Then coat a very small screw driver or pic with the ARP thread sealant and apply to the inside of the block threads, just one round. Then clean block surface, make sure no sealant exists on the deck.

Install your head gasket on the block.

Next take your new studs and degrease them all, they are coated with a light oil, which WILL interfere with the thread sealant down below. Dry the studs, then install your cylinder head on the block over the gasket. The install all your studs, tightening them once they're all threaded in the block for that head. Hand tighten the studs in the block, making sure they're all FULLY bottomed out, two studs will be lower than the rest (dowel locations).

Follow the torquing sequence in the book, and also found here on the forum by using the search function of the forum for 6.2 & 6.5 forums (possibly Tech as well).

Install your washers, fat side down.

Then get out your ARP molly grease and put a small blob or grease on the leading threads on the end of the studs, thread your nut down by hand or socket and extension.

Torque the studs to 20 ft. lbs following the pattern.

Then torque them 50 ft. lbs following the pattern.

Then pull the studs out one by one beginning at the start of the pattern (bolt one and so-on). Remove the stud with the Allen wrench, then coat the threads liberally with the ARP thread sealant, send the stud back in the hole, tighten it with the Allen wrench. Then coat both sides of the washer with the ARP thread sealant, install the washer then the nut, then re-torque to 50 ft. lbs.

Do this for all 17 studs (per side)

The reason you're just now putting the sealant on the studs now is because with an un-torqued gasket the chance (which is great) of sealant squeezing under the gasket from the tight threads and stud can cause leaks. This ARP sealant has bits of teflon solid in it, that's why it feels gritty (this is normal), but this stuff can get under the gasket and cause it not to seal. This DID happen to me on one of the engines formerly known as CAT-II. Caused a small coolant leak INTO the cylinders that wasn't great, and caused no pressure, but was sending coolant out the exhaust, and poor starting (I so hate that engine).

After you've gone through this procedure, finish torquing them all to 90 ft. lbs. and you're done.

The camshaft should be torqued to 65 ft. lbs.

The procedure above best performed on stand, but can be done in chassis (with a TON of patience) been there done with with another engine (current drag racing 6.5) for leaking externally.

The ARP stuff is the only thing I've used without leaks externally with coolant only.

J

[brian wafer]

i installed gasket last night, the studs ,girdel and dsg timing gears were second hand,so didn,t get moly or sealer, had instruction which said to torque to 120lbs with grade 30 oil if no moly.and i put teflon tape on block side had read somewhere it was better than thread sealer.there is no allen key had to double nut to screw studs in. should i take it back apart! and get the right stuff,was planning on installing in jimmy in 2 weeks. fuel pomp should come in next week.

[john8662]

Your call on whether to take it back apart or not.

No key holes? I guess just the later ones had the key holes in the end, does it make it a lot easier to install and remove. The Double-nut routine works good too.

These studs are VERY difficult to seal!!! Not sure what the total fix is, this last method has worked for me so far.

J