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Thread: How Do I Verify Oil Pressure?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Allentown, PA
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    Default How Do I Verify Oil Pressure?

    Is there an easy way to verify what my oil pressure gauge is reading? I installed a remote oil pressure sensor, wired up to a light on my dash. The remote sensor is *supposed* to be calibrated at 20psi. However, according to my stock, dash gauge, the extra light I installed comes on once the pressure drops to about 30-32 psi. I'd like to figure out which is correct - the stock, dash gauge or the new, remote sensor.

    This picture shows the oil pressure sensor (blue shrink wrap):

    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Kennedy ECM & IC, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, 3.5" Kennedy Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    SC
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    939

    Default

    Ahhhh one of my personal questionable and still not satisfied understanding of oil flow specifics.

    How long have you been running the warning light and has it worked as intended before?

    You could rig up a cheap mechanical guage to that port and see what it sees for pressure. That would diagnose the warning light function. Depending on speed of switch see below.

    Find out specifics for the switch function does warning light come on at instant of 19.99 psi and or 2-3 seconds of <20 psi and it turns off with 2-3 seconds of >20 psi etc that might make a difference. Are you measuring the pressure pre or post filter media? That could dampen pressure spikes of oil flow especially as media plugs more. My guess is the complex flow path and bypass valves are messin with the light. If you measure downstream of filter and bypass's in an oil gallery I bet your oil pressure is close to what your dash gauge reads.

    I personally don't believe 100% of the oil goes through the filter or cooler for that matter in normal driving 100% of the time. But I won't tangent for now until I understand more of your problem.
    97 5spd K2500 Ext Cab short Bed ~160K miles.
    TM, 3" downpipe & 4" exhaust, remote FSD, remote oilfilter, Gauges: EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, B&W Gooseneck Turnover ball, Prodigy Brake Controller. Hi-Temp Hydraulic Oil Cooler Lines.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    SC
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    Default

    Also explain how its worked so far.

    I interpret light goes out when dash gauge reads above 32 psi. Is that cold and you are reading what about 60 psi idling then warm it dips to 30 ish psi idling and up to 50-60ish at 2000 rpm the light goes on and off depending on what???
    97 5spd K2500 Ext Cab short Bed ~160K miles.
    TM, 3" downpipe & 4" exhaust, remote FSD, remote oilfilter, Gauges: EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, B&W Gooseneck Turnover ball, Prodigy Brake Controller. Hi-Temp Hydraulic Oil Cooler Lines.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
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    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
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    Default

    Couple of things to consider:

    The oil pressure depends in part on where you measure it. Don't expect 2 sensors at different places in the engine to read the same.

    The switch turns on and off in response to changing pressure. The gauge may respond more or less slowly to the same changes.

    10 psi at idle is more than enough. 45 psi is more than enough for all operations.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Default

    What size hoses are you running to the filter?
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Default

    One thing I hesitate to question is how does that pressure switch work? Because I don't know exactly. Is it one wire one terminal or is it 2 hard to tell from pic looks like one wire and its suppose to ground to achieve ok signal. But looks like you have rubber for shock absorbtion in mounting filter head and again inbetween mount fixture and truck body so can it achieve good ground or is it open without vibrations or intermittents ???
    97 5spd K2500 Ext Cab short Bed ~160K miles.
    TM, 3" downpipe & 4" exhaust, remote FSD, remote oilfilter, Gauges: EGT, Boost, Fuel Pressure, B&W Gooseneck Turnover ball, Prodigy Brake Controller. Hi-Temp Hydraulic Oil Cooler Lines.

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