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Thread: How to wire aftermarket lights on my nerf bars

  1. #1
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    Lansing ,MI
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    Question How to wire aftermarket lights on my nerf bars

    Hey guys,

    I am thinking of adding some LED marker lights on my Westin Nerf Bars. However, since i am no electrical engineer, i was wondering if anyone could give me some info or suggestions on how to wire the lights to the trucks electrical system. Thanks!

    Here are the lights i am looking at getting..

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/moc.htm
    1991 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 6.2L. 125,000 miles -Sold

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado LBZ - R.I.P

    2001 Chevrolet Silverado LB7-- Sold

    2011 GMC Sierra, LML- 39,000 miles. All stock

  2. #2
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    Lansing ,MI
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    I forgot to meantion, I have done searches on the forum for this, but nothing has really helped me..thanks!
    1991 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 6.2L. 125,000 miles -Sold

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado LBZ - R.I.P

    2001 Chevrolet Silverado LB7-- Sold

    2011 GMC Sierra, LML- 39,000 miles. All stock

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Arrow

    I've never done one of these, but it isn't rocket science. On the 2001, you have courtesy lamps at both front floors (works with the dome lamp). I'd tap power there. Check the power requirements for your aftermarket lamps to be sure the circuit can handle the additional demand (shouldn't be a problem). If it is too much for the circuit, use a relay and run power from the fuse box (a end of driver side dash) or power junction (behind the E-brake pedal). Under the rocker trim, there's plenty of room to run a harness for the wires. You can drill though it and run the wires out, and underneath (well hidden). I've done this for a couple add-ons, including airbag harnesses. Easy to do it clean and sealed.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  4. #4
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    those lights that i was looking at draw " Current Draw: 0.024 Amp (24ma) @ 12 VDC" and I plan on putting two of them on each side. These LED lamps use a PL-2s plug also. When you say "tap" in power there, do you mean connect them to the fuse box, or just splice it in?

    Thanks for the reply
    1991 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 6.2L. 125,000 miles -Sold

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado LBZ - R.I.P

    2001 Chevrolet Silverado LB7-- Sold

    2011 GMC Sierra, LML- 39,000 miles. All stock

  5. #5
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    CA
    Posts
    13,579

    Arrow

    The "tap" could be either. Your choice. I splice into the harness at the back of the fuse panel. Solder (preferred) or crimp. Stay away from the "scotch lock" type splicers. They are common, but lead to problems later with corrosion and loss of contact. At 24 mA, you shouldn't have a problem with any circuit. I suggest using the courtesy lamp circuit at the harness that leads to the ctsy lamps at either side. I recommend you install independent inline fuses to the lamps (near where you splice into the circuit), as the lamps and wires are out in the elements. A .25 or .5 amp fuse, each side, would be fine.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
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    The only splicing i've ever done is to just remove the plastic covering on a part of the wire and wrapping the wire around another wire, and wraping electrical tape around it..haha Not very professional. I've seen a few plastic devices that you connect two wires in, while splicing. Is something like this necessary?
    1991 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 6.2L. 125,000 miles -Sold

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado LBZ - R.I.P

    2001 Chevrolet Silverado LB7-- Sold

    2011 GMC Sierra, LML- 39,000 miles. All stock

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Lansing ,MI
    Posts
    254

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    sorry about that, i just looked up Scotch Locks, and that was exactly what you were talking about..haha oops!
    1991 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, 6.2L. 125,000 miles -Sold

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado LBZ - R.I.P

    2001 Chevrolet Silverado LB7-- Sold

    2011 GMC Sierra, LML- 39,000 miles. All stock

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    CA
    Posts
    13,579

    Arrow

    Given the 2 options you mention, as much as I dislike Scotch Locks, use the Scotch Locks. Even a wire nut would be better than just twisting the wires together. That's asking for a fire. Solder is ideal, and easy. Strip the wires as you described, then solder them instead of twisting. I always "tin" the wire ends (heat and apply solder to just the wire, to be sure it will wick-in) before attempting to solder them together. It'll be permanent and reliable, and the solder will usually melt before a fire starts if there's a short. Crimp splices and gangs (crimp cuffs similar to wire nuts) are my second choice. If you don't have solder experience (or don't want any), I suggest crimping.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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