I received the following email and image today asking about how to repair a block deck.
9/30/2008
Hi Jim,
I've got an interesting problem. I should probably post this to the forum but as the situation is quite acute, I decided to drop you email. Perhaps you or someone in the community can help.
My ´95 suburban blew the head gasket. I have the heads removed now and in addition to damaged gasket we found a severe corrosion damage (or whatever you might call that) in the block in between the front / 1st cylinder on the passenger side. See picture.
Now, I'm curious if anyone knows how to repair this without removing the engine and having the block welded and machined. (or a new motor) The hole is pretty deep, I did not measure it yet but I think just milling it would not be possible. You would end up having problems with the intake as the head would be at least 2mm lower than the other. If milling both sides you'd then have to machine the intake too. Also, compression ratio might be a problem if taking 2mm or so off the block.
Although these vehicles are not so common here, my mechanic told me that almost all 6.5TDs that have blown the head gasket have shown the same corrosion problem. We do not know if the corrosion is due to the head gasket failure or the other way round, the gasket failure due the corrosion.
Thanks,
Ari
Here's my reply:
Hi Ari,
What you're seeing is the corrosive result of combustion gases forcing their way past the fire-ring in the head gasket and into the cooling system over a fairly long period of time. The corrosive action is mostly due to water molecules finding their way into pores of the cast iron, which then turn to steam as a result of high temperature combustion. This process slowly erodes away the cast iron over time, and is similar to the cavitation erosion problem the early Ford diesel engine experienced in their cylinder walls.
The best repair would include machining the block deck surface and using a thicker head gasket. Or, the eroded area could be cleaned and filled with cast iron weld, then machined flat. This would allow for less being taken off the block deck. I'm afraid a proper repair will require you to pull the engine.
Jim
If anyone has a better idea, please let us know.