Injector Cleaner

[TJNE]

Are there any good fuel injector cleaners for diesels that can go in the tank?

2007 Classic GMC 6600 LBZ 66K miles.

[trbankii]

People on the board turned me to Power Service products - Diesel Kleen (grey bottle) and Diesel Fuel Supplement (white bottle).

I picked up one of the 16 oz. bottles and then an 80 oz. jug so that I can keep the smaller bottle in the truck for fillups and then refill it from the larger jug. I ran a jug (one 16 oz. bottle each fillup) through the truck and then switched over to the Fuel Supplement with a bottle at each fillup.

[ScubaCat]

People on the board turned me to Power Service products - Diesel Kleen (grey bottle) and Diesel Fuel Supplement (white bottle).

I picked up one of the 16 oz. bottles and then an 80 oz. jug so that I can keep the smaller bottle in the truck for fillups and then refill it from the larger jug. I ran a jug (one 16 oz. bottle each fillup) through the truck and then switched over to the Fuel Supplement with a bottle at each fillup.

SOoooo....did you notice a difference?

[Kenneth]

I have been running the Power Service (grey bottle) for over a year now. I have noticed ~2mpg better with the Power Service. I used to put in 16 oz at every fill-up, now I just put in 8oz with the same results.

[trbankii]

Definitely noticed a difference or I wouldn't keep doing it...

Can't really speak to a mileage difference as my driving the truck is somewhat erratic - not a daily driver and one tank is around town, next is trip with a light load, next is trip with heavy load, etc.

But it definitely starts and runs smoother than before I was using the treatment.

[Renntag]

I also use the power services supplements, but have also found that the Sea Foam injector clean to be very well liked in other circles. I tried it in a vehicle that was having a stumbling issue, cleared it up after I filled the fuel filter housing with it and added a strong dose to the fuel tank. The fuel filter was already clean as it is replaced 2x as often as the oil/filter.

I also add SAE30 oil at 2 qts/tank full in our 6.5TD burb. Something that was reccomended a long time ago, still do it. Every 2-3 fill ups, I add power services too.

In the winter, I add the grey power services at every fill. Occasionally I also ad the red HEET water remover if we are coming into a cold spell or traveling north. Just to be on the safe side.

I have not documented mileage with/without. Our burb gets 18+ on the highway going 75-85 mph and the Cummins gets the same unladen traveling 65-70.

[DmaxMaverick]

I also use the power services supplements, but have also found that the Sea Foam injector clean to be very well liked in other circles. I tried it in a vehicle that was having a stumbling issue, cleared it up after I filled the fuel filter housing with it and added a strong dose to the fuel tank. The fuel filter was already clean as it is replaced 2x as often as the oil/filter.

I also add SAE30 oil at 2 qts/tank full in our 6.5TD burb. Something that was reccomended a long time ago, still do it. Every 2-3 fill ups, I add power services too.

In the winter, I add the grey power services at every fill. Occasionally I also ad the red HEET water remover if we are coming into a cold spell or traveling north. Just to be on the safe side.

I have not documented mileage with/without. Our burb gets 18+ on the highway going 75-85 mph and the Cummins gets the same unladen traveling 65-70.

Each to his/her own, but.......

The 30 wt is not a good idea (and 2 qts/tank is a LOT). Engine oil contains an additive package with friction modifiers, particulate entrapment, and properties designed to NOT burn. If you are using an "oil" in your fuel, you should use 2 stroke oil. It is designed to burn, emulsifies with fuel, and equals the lubrication of the motor oil, as far as the pump and injectors go. I use TWC 2 cycle oil at about 1 oz. per gallon with every fillup.

The Power Service is good stuff. However, the gray bottle should be used for summer, and the white for winter. HEET should only be used in an emergency, if all the other stuff fails. All PS products have water handling properties, and using more than one type of water handler can negate both of them. While water is not good, especially in sub-freezing temps, the fuel itself is the problem when it gets really cold (below 20°). A good additive and functioning fuel filter heater will take care of most conditions down to -20°. Below that, you really need a winter blend fuel, and perhaps an additive as well.

[Renntag]

The 30 wt is not a good idea (and 2 qts/tank is a LOT).

I didnt think it was alot with 45+ gallons diesel.

Engine oil contains an additive package with friction modifiers, particulate entrapment, and properties designed to NOT burn.

interesting. That was never shared with me, I was told to add actually ND30, perhaps that makes a difference then? Anyway, it was a reliable source, I went with it. Have their been any hidden issues? None I can tell.

If you are using an "oil" in your fuel, you should use 2 stroke oil. It is designed to burn, emulsifies with fuel, and equals the lubrication of the motor oil, as far as the pump and injectors go. I use TWC 2 cycle oil at about 1 oz. per gallon with every fillup.

Interesting info. I have never seen any issue with motor oil mixing with diesel fuel. I dont have lab tests or evidence to back this up.

The Power Service is good stuff. However, the gray bottle should be used for summer, and the white for winter.

Ah! yes you are correct. My mistake. I had my colours mixed.

HEET should only be used in an emergency, if all the other stuff fails. All PS products have water handling properties, and using more than one type of water handler can negate both of them.

Again, good info. I had a few instances in the last couple years with the "water in fuel" light going off, only in the colder temps. We used some Heet and drained the filter housing. No more problem.

While water is not good, especially in sub-freezing temps, the fuel itself is the problem when it gets really cold (below 20°).

Of course, but water is ALWAYS an issue. Fuel Gell is only an issue in the cold.

A good additive and functioning fuel filter heater will take care of most conditions down to -20°. Below that, you really need a winter blend fuel, and perhaps an additive as well.

I agree. The issue here though is that unless the filter is close to the engine block, the factory set up doesnt provide heat. (not from the tank to the motor).

There are electric heating bands that wrap around the filter to provide heat. That may be a good solution.

Great info Maverick. Thanks. I will look into the benefit of the oil I add more closely since I am now curious as to its effectiveness or potential detriment.

[DmaxMaverick]

As it gets colder, the viscosity of the fuel drops. If your filter is near the need for service, the "thicker" fuel will increase the restriction, causing the WIF lamp to come on. Using HEET will do 2 things. Emulsify water, and lower the cloud and gel points of the fuel, making it flow better at lower temps. The same benefit can be had from the correct dose of PS white bottle additive, according to the temperature. Colder needs more. HEET, IIRC, contains alcohol. Not a problem on rare ocasions, or in an emergency. A big problem if used too often. Unlike the older Diesels, yours is built of many aluminum internal parts, and alcohol can be detrimental to these parts over time (not to mention the effect on the seals). Products like HEET and 911 should be used only if you have an immediate fuel gel problem that can't be resolved by any other method. These products are ineffective for use as "maintenance" additives. If you are using a quality winter additive, like PS, you should not need any emergency additive. The emergency additives are for times you get caught in an unplanned situation, and your fuel gels. They work very well, but are not intended as a maintenance additive. Water is not as common as we may be led to believe. It is present, but rarely in high enough concentrations to cause problems, and even more rare to cause problems with the use of a good "normal use" additive. It is wise to be cautious of water, but overkill can be just as bad as the problem. Especially if you are mixing brands. Not all water handlers are the same, and they deal with water contamination in different ways. There was a time when adding a cupful of alcohol to the tank was THE solution.

I don't have any scientific data to offer in regards to the motor oil. The "old school" consensus has been it is OK. Old school involves a lot of things. Old engine designs, and old motor oil formulations (before the EPA). I have seen accelerated injector fouling and cylinder/piston/valve coking with its use recently on older engines. The stuff is just not designed or intended to be used in a combustion chamber environment. ND oil is probably better (less bad), but is still motor oil, minus the detergent. Two cycle oil, on the other hand, is formulated to live and burn in this environment. I could be wrong, but it adds up that way to me.

[Renntag]

Again, Thank you Maverick. Very well written post. I certainly will do a couple things differently. The oil concern you bring up is disturbing to me. I hadnt thought about the coking issue before and it makes sense.

[polejockey65]

I also have burnt oil but it was USED motor oil that was filtered to 10 microns and the truck spit and sputtered and spit some more i will never do that again. I just make a 2 liter bottle of bio-diesel and use it for my additive 16oz with 20 gallons or so.
i hope to start making 50 gal batches soon.