Stock air box differences and homebrew cold air ducting?
I've been told that there are a couple differences in the stock LB7 air box depending on model year and that some suck air from the fender (foam seal between airbox and fender), and some (like my 2003 GMC 2500) have a 'gap' between the air box and the fender with the hole in the fender blocked off by a big piece of alum. foil with stickys stuff on it. Also, best I can tell, the lower half of the stock airbox is similar but not exactly the same between my '03 and the 2001 model year trucks (I traded a 2001 lower for a beer so I had one I could carve up for a project)
Can anyone confirm that some model years pulled air from the fender?
Also, I've read that for a stock truck, the AC brand filter is pretty dang good for airflow as it has way more pleats and thus more surface area than some aftermarket filters (like Fram). I don't want an oiled gause filter (like K&N) and am too cheap to spend $300-400 for someones air box and inlet tubing, especially since some I've seen just suck hot underhood air thru a big air filter, but I think I'd be happier if I had true 'cold' air going into my motor rather than sucking underhood air into the stock box from the gap between the box and my fender.
With the old airbox lower that I now have as a donor, I'm considering cutting it up (bigger and more inlet holes) making a home-brew snorkel to pull cooler air from the bumper or some other happy place to direct it into the airbox.
Step 1 will be to put a thermocouple in the inlet just ahead of the MAF so I know what I really have for inlet air temp in various conditions stock so I can tell if I made things better or worse.
Anyone played this game and have any suggestions?
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