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Thread: tie rod end diagram

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    13

    Default tie rod end diagram

    i need to replace my tie rod ends does anyone have a diagram or drawing show it and hopefully listing the parts so ill know what to or for my 93 3500 4x4
    thanks for the help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by raw View Post
    i need to replace my tie rod ends does anyone have a diagram or drawing show it and hopefully listing the parts so ill know what to or for my 93 3500 4x4
    thanks for the help
    raw,

    I replaced all the tie rods on my '96 K2500 Sub a couple of years ago, along with the pitman arm and the idler arm. I bought everything from Rockauto.com. I didn't have any diagrams when I replaced these parts, everything was straight forward.

    I do have a copy of the SI program, but it only goes back to 1998 or 1999. When I had questions, I would look up the 1999 Sub for comparision. But in for doing the front end work, I didn't need the program.
    Bill

    1996 K2500 Suburban - Purchased in Sept. 2002 - 297K miles
    Only mods - K&N filter, Greg's Oil Cooler Lines, Home-made FSD heatsink, Kennedy quick heat glow plugs, LED interior lights, Kenwood stereo, 2001 GMC aluminum rims. AutoMeter Guages (boost, EGT, TransTemp)
    2007 GMC Acadia SLE - wifes car.
    1987 Buick GN totally stock - 48K miles

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Yep, I did mine a year and a half ago. Went to RockAuto, put in my year and model, and got all the parts. I found it easier to replace the adjusting sleeves ($12 ea) than screw around with the rusty messes that they had become. Went with all Moog parts.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Oh, and two more things.

    The hardest part I had with the whole job was getting the pitman arm off. Other than that it was just a matter of removing the old and replacing with the new.

    And a short time later one of the stabilizer end bar links cracked. While I was in there, I should have replaced those as well - only another $36 for the Moog part.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Just an update. Have the truck in for the annual state inspection and got a call from them - one of the inner tie rod ends was bad and needed to be replaced. Roughly 35K miles on it since I replaced it the first time. Seems like it should have had a longer life than that...

    History was that I bought the truck at just under 132K and the first thing I had to do was replace pretty much the whole front end - tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, etc. I do have a set of 285/75-R16 tires on it and take it out for some trail riding, but I'd have expected at least 60K to 80K out of components.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

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