My AC has a leak somewhere, and I don't see an oily spot on the system that is visible. Since this is the first time it's needed any TLC, I just added gas last year. Has anyone else had any luck finding a leak a leak in there system?
Enthusiast
AC woes....
My AC has a leak somewhere, and I don't see an oily spot on the system that is visible. Since this is the first time it's needed any TLC, I just added gas last year. Has anyone else had any luck finding a leak a leak in there system?
94 Chev Blazer, 6.5TD, 3.42, 4WD,Gear drive,,Remote FSD behind drivers headlight,,Mobil 1 in difs and trans,Rotella 30W, Over a quarter of a million miles !! Member -1.94 club.
Enthusi-ass!
Charge it with the UV dyed freon...buy the glasses...find the leak....available @ autozone ..advance autoparts...etc.
95 Suburban 1500 Bone Stock Orig.
purchased at 103K from first owner
new alternator/autozone gold @104K
re-trannyed with shift kit @107.5K
new Bilsteins all around @ 127K
Kennedy exhaust @128k ..zoom!
new lift pump w/OPS bypass @ 130K
Kennedy FSD cooler @ 135K
New IP/Injectors/G-plugs @ 137k
Another autozone alternator and Optima Reds @ 150K
Another pump and injectors @157K
New chain and gears @157K
HO pump single therm setup @157K (will see what happens)
Head gasket or worse to be determined...164k
NEW AM General 6.5 installed and running well! @ 164K!!!!!
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Best way bar none is a "sniffer" (electronic unit that has a flexible sniff snout)
My be is that either the compressor front shaft seal is leaking or you have hose/connection leak.
The hoses can leak at the crimps
The High pressure cutoff switch can leak through the connectors if the thing fails.
Any of the O ring connections can leak.
Condensers can fail as can the evaporator.
The schrader valves at either the high pressure or low pressure ports can fail too.
The sniffer will howl like a Banshee if it detects any of the producrs.
I prefer the sniffers over the glow additives.
Many leaks are just enough to drain the system but not enough to show any oil seepage
Soap bubbles are good for checking fittings and such.
Missy
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Captain Doom
I'm with Missy - dye is nice - if the leak is in the open, but a leak in the condenser or evaporator won't show up.
'94 Barth 28' Breakaway M/H ("StaRV II") diesel pusher: Spartan chassis, aluminum birdcage construction. Peninsular/AMG 6.5L TD (230HP), 18:1, Phazer, non-wastgated turbo, hi-pop injectors, 4L80E (Sun Coast TC & rebuild, M-H Pan), Dana 80 (M-H Cover), Fluidampr, EGT, trans temp, boost gage. Honda EV-4010 gaso genset, furnace, roof air, stove, microwave/convection, 2-dr. 3-way reefer. KVH R5SL Satellite. Cruises 2, sleeps 4, carries 6, and parties 8 (parties 12 - tested).
Stand-ins are an '02 Cadillac Escalade AWD 6.0L and an '06 Toyota Sienna Limited.
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
In my many years od doing Auto HVAC work, I have only seen one (1) leaking evaporator core.
Seen a few condensers with holes from junk crammed through the grille.
Generally its hose crimps, fitting O rings and schrader (charge ) valves and pump seals that are the usual culprits.
The low pressure/cycle switch on the accumulator can leak as can high pressure relief valves (if equiped) and high pressure cutout switches.
Get a sniffer and snoop the system out.
As I mentioned the dye is fine but it takes a buttload of it to show much.
I had a hose crimp on DaHooooley that would leak the system down to a no work condition in two days and not show any oil leaks.
Missy
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
pulling the dash apart to replace the evap,. is a dirty rotten SOb job,..
BTDT ipulled the pass front bucket made it easy..er aargh.
Nick
1999 chev suburban C2500
300,000 mi
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