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Thread: Gear Drive vs Chain Timing Sets

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Default

    The hard starting with white smoke and such can also be caused by a set of worn out injectors.

    The occasional timing code is not a good sign though.

    The ECM will adjust the injection timing though a fairly broad range before it complains.

    Before spending the big $$$ for a gear set, I would suggest getting the Squirts checked.

    A strong diesel smell when warm is sign of bad injectors.

    If its a timing issue, the computer would complain bitterly.

    Hard cold starts, aside from bad glow plugs are directly connected to low pop pressure and a set of injectors that are Peeeeing a stream rather than a fine mist upon entering the injection cycle.

    This is a commonly overlooked problem which usually ends up with folks blaming the glow plugs.

    If your injectors are at 100K miles or more, they are suspect.

    With a set of squirts that are in good shape, these engines will start with minimal smoke even with half the glow plugs non functional.

    A long period of cranking followed by tons of white smoke and a period of time that the engine misses on a few holes, then followed by a strong pungent exhaust odor even when warm points more towards injectors than timing gears/chain.

    Having a timing set, either gears or chain and sprockets that's in good order is a plus for sure, and all the materials mentioned are definately spot on, I would still check your squirts before stepping up for the timing set.

    FWIW
    I have replaced chains on these and retained the original sprockets many many times. The sprockets are HARD and dont seem to wear.

    The chains stretch in time and as Jim mentioned, start to cause issues.

    I have seen engines with 250K miles and a chain that was looser than a rat tail in a rain barrel still run good without complaints.


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Efland, NC, US
    Posts
    70

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    I had a gear set on my old 6.2 engine that broke a crank (not bc of the gear set). I put a different 6.2 engine in the truck and installed a new gear set that a friend of mine bought for a 6.5. I bought a whole box of new/used parts from him when he sold his truck. The gear set was new and since mine had more than 200K on it I decided to put the new set in. It had the reluctor wheel with it but I didn't use it and I used my long snout balancer. Is there any difference in the gear set itself between the 6.5 and 6.2?
    Bill Efland
    83 C10 6.2TD Short Bed
    befland@yahoo.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by befland View Post
    Is there any difference in the gear set itself between the 6.5 and 6.2?
    Not to my knowledge (other than cost). The reluctor added about $100 to the cost of the Phaser compared to the non-EFI gear set.

    Jim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
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    10,792

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    Quote Originally Posted by befland View Post
    I had a gear set on my old 6.2 engine that broke a crank (not bc of the gear set). I put a different 6.2 engine in the truck and installed a new gear set that a friend of mine bought for a 6.5. I bought a whole box of new/used parts from him when he sold his truck. The gear set was new and since mine had more than 200K on it I decided to put the new set in. It had the reluctor wheel with it but I didn't use it and I used my long snout balancer. Is there any difference in the gear set itself between the 6.5 and 6.2?
    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    Not to my knowledge (other than cost). The reluctor added about $100 to the cost of the Phaser compared to the non-EFI gear set.

    Jim

    That is correct. A gear drive is a gear drive. It becomes a phazer when you add the phazer ring. The injection pump type and the balancer snout length determine whether you need a phazer or not. The electronic balancers have a shorter snout so they would require a phazer to fill the void if used on a mechanical engine.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Pauline, SC
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    OK, let me get this all straight before I order the wrong thing, I am going with a GEP motor, ( ordered it today) a military take out 6.5, I have a DB2 pump, and will order a Fluidampr for a manual pump motor, and order a gear drive for a Manual motor ... am I right??

    Thanks, Chris
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
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    11,413

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    OK, let me get this all straight before I order the wrong thing, I am going with a GEP motor, ( ordered it today) a military take out 6.5, I have a DB2 pump, and will order a Fluidampr for a manual pump motor, and order a gear drive for a Manual motor ... am I right??

    Thanks, Chris
    The Fluidampr produced for the mechanical fuel injection engines comes with a spacer to accommodate an installation with/without the reluctor. So, either way you'll be OK when using a mechanical gear set.

    Jim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Walla Walla WA
    Posts
    69

    Default Long term study of gears

    How has the long term use on these gear sets held up? Any long term tear down study conducted> I would be interested in seeing the condition of the gear teeth after 100k plus miles.
    1994 K2500 ext cab. Recently repowered with; Non-cracked 599 block, factory compression, used old DSG girdle for main caps. Factory for what remains. Changed diffs to 3.42. Fuel economy Hwy 22.5 mpg US, in town without lcokup in 2nd/3rd - 18 mpg US.
    1994 K3500 CC LB Silverado. Next project. Built for endurance, power and gearing. Plan on opened up intake and exhaust sytem, best cooling mods, 4.11 gearing 4L80E, followed by Gear Vendors OD. Need to be able to split all gears and have lockup in 2nd/3rd/4th. Tan interior cloth, Bad ass dark blue (coming) aluminum wheels and air ride (coming)

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