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Thread: ARP HEAD STUDS or STOCK HEAD BOLTS

  1. #1
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    Jan 2007
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    Default ARP HEAD STUDS or STOCK HEAD BOLTS

    I'm getting ready to change the head gaskets on my 02 LB7. What would be better to use Stock bolts or ARP head studs? My truck has 180000 miles. Studs are $550.00 off ebay. Stock bolts from Napa are $170.00
    Jeff

  2. #2
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    Mar 2000
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    Loyal WI US
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    Default

    Studs are always a good idea, but make future service more difficult as they need to be removed to pull heads in chassis.
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  3. #3
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    Default

    True,but wouldnt the stock type bolts cause it to blow a head gasket in the furure though?
    Jeff

  4. #4
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    maui, hawaii
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    (True,but wouldn't the stock type bolts cause it to blow a head gasket in the future though? )
    You have 180,000 miles on your truck. Did the stock bolts cause your truck to blow its head gasket? How often did that happen? Is your truck stock?
    1) '03 GMC 2500HD Dmax/Ali Ext/Short 4x4; 4" exhaust, egt and boost gauges; exhaust brake; Bilsteins; BD exhaust manifold; Oil Guard bypass; Lubrication pre oem fuel filter; Tekonsha Prodigy; Mag-Hytec differential cover; Suncoast V transmission w/deep oil sump
    2) '07 Classic GMC 2500HD Dmax/Ali Ext/Short 4x4'; Bilsteins, Silastic shackles, BD exhaust manifold; Oil Guard bypass; Lubrication pre oem fuel filter; Tekonsha Prodigy; Federico sway bars; Dipricol boost and egt gauges; Transgo Jr,, Mag-Hytec differential and transmission pan

  5. #5
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    GREELEY COLORADO
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    Default

    Head studds are always a good idea. its like prevenative maintance. But if your not going to push the engine then you dont really need them. I would still change them

  6. #6
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    I'm not sure if the head gasket is blown,but the coolant burping out of the overflow is a sure sign of it. The injectors were changed before 100K. A member told me anytime your injectors are changed sometime in the future you will have coolant burping problems. Caused by loose injector cups. which can happen during the injector change. Is that my trucks problem. I dont know until I take it apart. Also I was told the constant cooling and heating causes the stock bolts to stretch over time causing head gasket problems. My question is why do the LB7's have coolant burping issues?
    Jeff

  7. #7
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    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Arrow

    There's no indication of the early head gaskets failing due to head bolt stretch. None. The explanations I've heard, and backed by limited observation, is the nature of the gasket lamination to break down. Hence, they've been redesigned, and it seems to have eliminated this issue for the most part (nothing is really absolute). With stock to moderate power levels, stock head bolts should not be an issue. They don't "stretch", to any significant degree.

    The reason for the coolant leak issue and injector cups on the LB7's is absolutely avoidable. The cause is, the injector cups are "wet", meaning they are the barrier between the coolant passage and injector hole in the head. The seal at the base of the cup can be upset (sealant loosened/broken), leading to leakage under pressure. This is caused mostly by improper injector removal, but can happen even when everything else goes as it should (Murphy's law). This is the reason most will recommend resealing them any time the injectors are removed, which eliminates the issue almost entirely. It seams most dealers won't invest the time to do this (not covered by the warranty unless an obvious leak, or the cup unseats during injector removal), and assume they won't leak (a gamble they often lose). Sealing them is not difficult, but does take some time to do. Some extra time is cheap insurance if you are doing an injector replacement yourself.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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  8. #8
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    Thanks. That clears up alot of questions. For my trucks problems I'm not sure if I should just do the cup seals or the head gaskets also at the same time. I dont know which is causing the coolant burp. It doesnt burp every time I drive it. Only seems to when it gets driven hard. aka towing or going up a long hill.
    Last edited by 9365turbo; 01-30-2010 at 14:20.
    Jeff

  9. #9
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    Jul 2009
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    Cushing Oklahoma
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    Cool

    Hey Jeff, here is part # for inj. sleave puller - (J-45910 injector tube removal tool ) this is a Kent-Moore # , took a month to get it, $200 bucks and some change, pretty pricey but works like a charm! no injector tool is needed, found this out after i bought one, $100 bucks, only to find out it doesnt work or im to dumb to figure it out. they will come out with a heal bar or something with a 90 degree bend in it, just be gental! after all it is electronic, never bought one and never want too, think the price of that tool is bad?

  10. #10
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    I did get the tool to pull them,but not the sleeves. Is there another way to remove them? I'm taking it a part right now.
    Jeff

  11. #11
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    Jeff, no other way to pull the sleaves that im aware of, at least nothingt ive tried, maby a long sturdy hook to grab the bottom of the sleave through the hole, not sure if i will work may take the chance of damaging the sleave. if i works let me know. hope all goes well! EDDIE.
    Last edited by dr.olds; 02-04-2010 at 15:46. Reason: MISS UNDER STOOD REPLY!

  12. #12
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    Default

    I have the tool to pull the injectors. All is going well. I have the drivers side off going to get the pass side off tonight I hope. A local shop wants $100.00 to pull the sleeves.
    Jeff

  13. #13
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    Cushing Oklahoma
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    Default

    hey jeff, eddie here, have you pulled the heads off, or are you doing this on the truck?

  14. #14
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    Default

    Yes. Just pulled the passenger side. I'm a diesel mechanic now.
    Jeff

  15. #15
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    Default

    Hey Eddie. How did you clean the block surfaces?
    Jeff

  16. #16
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    Do the sleeves go in right before you are ready install the injectors?
    Jeff

  17. #17
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    I think I tightened two bolts on the right head one two many times. I hope it will be ok.
    Jeff

  18. #18
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    Hey Jeff, been gone a while did every thing work out all right? hope so! does it run like a new one? and yes now you are a diesel mechanic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  19. #19
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    Hey Eddie. It all worked out great. I dont have to baby the truck anymore. The pain and suffering to the wallet was well worth it.
    Jeff

  20. #20
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    Just to reiterate - we recommend resealing the LB7 injector cup(s) whenever the injector(s) have been removed, even if you have to pay for it yourself. There is a strong connection between injector service and a problem developing with the cooling system and/or water pump sometime soon after an injector replacement. I know of one LLY Duramax whose water pump ran to 710,000 miles before requiring replacement. Cooling system overpressure can wipe out the seal way before its time.

    Jim

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