Chevystuff is on the right track. But, if you are dealing with plugs and not hoses then some previous owner or mechanic has bypassed the oil cooler by pulling the hoses and plugging the block. Bad idea! The oil cooler is needed to keep that oil cool because of the turbo.
I think this is what I would do:
Reattach those plugs (or oil cooler lines) with a new clip (about $7 at the stealership). Top off the oil, pull the glow plugs and crank the engine (recharge your batteries) until you see oil pressure start to show on the guage. Crank no more than 30 sec. to 1 min. at a time and give the starter plenty of time to cool down between attempts. Watch for the oil pressure guage for some pressure. This will prime the oil pump and feed oil into the upper part of the engine without running the engine or causing further damage. Get that oil pressure back before you run the engine or you could ruin any chance of salvaging her.
Once you have pressure, put the glow plugs back in and see if she will start and run. It's about the only way to begin assessing the damage.
Pulling the glow plugs on the P side may require pulling the wheel and the splash guard to reach them. The reason to pull them is to keep the engine from starting, reduce stress on the starter and gain cranking rpms, with the goal of getting back your oil pressure.
Black 95 6.5TD, 929 block, 173k miles, 65k on IP, 48k miles on self-rebuilt engine done in '09, 6 L&S Full-torque inserts in outer main crank holes, Clearwater heads, Fluidamper, rebuilt NV4500, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, no cat, dual T-stats, 9 blade fan, spin-on 180 degree clutch, Heath hi-flow water pump and turbomaster, PMD relocated, OPS relay mod, Heath PROM upgrade, and Kennedy headlight harness upgrade soon. Now use semi-syn Lucas 2-cycle oil every fill-up which greatly reduces the frequency of DTC 35-36 codes the PCM/ECM throws.