Brake Caliper bolts

[lmholmes11]

Today after a trip to the store I noticed that my rear right brake caliper was leaking brake fluid (I could push the brake all the way to the floor). I am trying to loosen the two brake caliper mounting bolts and I can't for the life of me get them loose. Just to double check what way should I be turning them? Is there a trick to it?

Thanks everyone

[DmaxMaverick]

They are right hand thread, tight, and thread-locked in place. You may need a bit more leverage, or something. No room for an impact wrench, so I use a breaker bar and hammer (make sure your tools are up to the task). Try this at your own risk. Impact is the key. Not necessarily brute force.

[Jake99Z71]

Are loosening the Caliper Glide pin bolts or the Caliper Bracket bolts? Bracket bolts have loctite on them and you will need to use a little heat with them. If you are pulling the caliper glide pin bolt, you can hit the bottom one with an impact then pull the bracket bolt out of the bottom. Then loosen the caliper bracket bolt on top and swivel the caliper out with the top glide pin bolt still installed.

[DmaxMaverick]

That's true, for the most part. The caliper bolts (not the caliper bracket bolts) I've done had thread locker on them. I always use thread locker on them when installing, on any vehicle. Once R/R'd, they aren't as bad. The first removal after many years since new are a real bear. The OEM thread locker is much more difficult to break lose than blue Loc-Tite.

The brackets are another story. I have yet to see one I was able to get loose with a 1/2" impact wrench (different wrenches, high pressure, didn't matter). My first experience was on mine. Ultimately, I had to lower the truck with the wrench on the ground to get them loose (was out of town during a hub job, and didn't have a long enough cheater on hand). Others I've done weren't as bad, but close. The rears aren't as bad as the front, but not far off.

[DickWells]

I just had an idea that may or, may not, be applicable. I had to take my brackets off this Summer, to adjust the parking brake, and it wasn't easy, since the spring mount negates using any kind of deep wrench. Here's what just occured to me. We know that many times, you can "jar" a fastener loose, by swatting it, end on, or even from the side, with a light hammer. Quick, sharp blows are the key. What if you can get in there with one of those new nail driver thingies that Sears and many others are putting out? Hammer that sucker from a couple of defferent angles before you try the longest handled box-end you can get your hands on. Or, if you have an air supply, and an impact hammer, try the same with that. I'm a long ways away from being near one of those battery driven nail drivers, so I may be WAY off base. Just a stupid thought, or not?

[dually2002]

Sometimes you can loosen a a tough fastener by tighteing it first.

[lmholmes11]

Thanks for the help everyone. I was able to get it done with a breaker bar. I replaced my caliper and now I can't get the peddle pressure back up even after bleeding. Do I have to bleed the other rear caliper?

[DmaxMaverick]

I would do a full fluid flush (fluid replacement), which will include bleeding. No time like the present.