Which head gasket?

[rapidoxidationman]

Eeenie Meenie Mienie Moe
which head gasket has to go?

Some of you may remember that I'm pressurizing my coolant and burping it out the overflow tank tube. Well, it would seem that I've waited long enough to blow the water pump seal too, and my coolant use has risen accordingly.
Nuts.
Ok, I know I've got a head gasket problem, so I've been doing a bunch of research and learning. I've found it costs about an arm, leg, and firstborn to get the problems taken care of at a mechanic's shop.
Not being one to shy away from a challenge, and certainly able to turn a wrench (and to use an interesting project as a perfectly good excuse to buy some nice new tools to add to the arsenal...) I'm teaching myself how to change a head gasket.
"A" head gasket? Not both?
Yup. In the research, I've learned that HG failures are pretty darn rare on the DMax. I've also learned that ONE gasket is about $300... TTY head bolts, of which there are MANY on each bank, are also not inexpensive. Sooo, rather than punt $5K out the window and get a mechanic to do both banks, I'm thinking (hoping) I can do one side and the pump for about 15% of that cost plus a few hard days of my time.
It comes down to Which Side...

How can I tell which bank is leaking compression into my coolant?

I've read some articles on this site which indicate the easiest way to tell is by pulling the glow plugs on a cold engine and looking for moisture. Ok, seems simple enough in reading the AlldataDIY instructions.
Any other ideas for checking/testing?

Mr. Kennedy, can you put me together a kit with the necessary gasket, assorted other gaskets, sealant, thermostats, return tees for injectors, head bolts, expansion tank cap, fresh glow plugs, and a water pump to boot? The coolant would probably be best sourced locally, given the shipping...



My GM dealer can get whatever parts I need but I'd rather get 'em from someone that has the experience...

[Kennedy]

Do both sides and use grade C gaskets. A small leak from combustion to coolant is almost impossible to isolate. You will likely find that #7 cylinder (and maybe more) has the fire ring collapsed and moved inward making it look D shaped.

Have the heads skim cut and washed before re-install.

Use ARP head studs only. It is my belief that the key cause of these issues is cheap ass fasteners.

I can put together as much or as little of the parts needed as you like. Most of it is in stock here.

P.S. Figure a solid 36hrs labor. Invest in a small battery impact like Matco/Snapon/Milwaukee sells. It's a tossup on doing in chassis, on engine stand or with cab off. I lean towards engine on stand, but we've been doing in chassis for the most part.

P.S Washe the snot out of the engine bay. Just be sure to hand clean the FICM and put a spot of duct tape over the black vent disk and you should be fine.