Cabin Heat slow to warm up

[DennisG01]

Oops. Should of watched that video before asking that question. That video was GREAT! Thanks for that link, Missy!

[Robyn]

Hope it all comes out OK without major surgery on the HVAC unit.

Keep us in the loop.

Missy

[DennisG01]

I clamped the large hose that goes to the radiator. I didn't see any difference in the speed that the engine warmed up. It seemed about the same. Tomorrow, I'll check the flow into a bucket.

Next, I took the glove box out. The servo is in the middle of this picture -- white label with black barcode. Very hard to get to - looks like I might be able to get to it easier by removing the power (cigarette lighter) receptacles, though.



I was able to see the post move with the help of a mirror. I enhanced the picture the best I could to make the metal post easier to see. It appears to swing through about a 60* swing. It moves with every little click of the temp selector knob.

[DennisG01]

I think we're getting closer!!! Can I assume there might be some type of blockage in the coolant crossover or the hose between the crossover and the "T" connector?

I know that fitting on the crossover is supposed to a "quick connect", but but I've read stories of how it is also a "quick break" connection. Mine is only a few years old, though. How do I get it off? I didn't want to to start forcing that piece as there is plastic there.

Please don't laugh at my "contraption"... or at least don't do it too loud!

This is idle RPM, cold engine (maybe 80*-100* coolant temp). Barely a weak, little 1/8" stream (probably not even fair to call it a "stream")





This one is 1350RPM, approx same temperature coolant. This yielded a "rough" stream - not solid, still small diameter.

[Robyn]

The little coupler on the Xover (RH side) has a restrictor orifice in it, and this could have issues.

Getting the aluminum pipe out requires that you retract the little lips on the plastic insert and slide the pipe out.

Now, you are already up to speed on these things, yesss they break off in the xover and are a bitch to get out.

If you do break it off, DO NOT despair, the Xover can be salvaged easily.

You simply remove thye Xover get it out where you can see what your doing, then using a die grinder relieve the aluminum from the inside of the coupler on opposite sides (make a little groove the length of the coupler part thats broke off)

Once you have a little groove on opposite sides that just starts to show the threads of the Xover port your good.

Now you take a small capeing chisel and small hammer and peal the offending part inward and away from the threads in the Xover.

This may seem like a tough task, but I can usually manage to extricate these within 15 minutes or so once the Xover is off and on the bench.

Once the broken part is out, run a Pipe tape (1/2") through the threads to just clean it out.

Install the steel version of the coupler from NAPA or ??? parts house and your good to go.

Smear some Hi Temp RTV on the threads before installing the new coupler.

Good luck and keep us posted

Missy

[DennisG01]

Thanks, Missy. Now that you mention it, I remember taking the advice of this forum a few years ago and the one I bought (the one currently in there) is the steel version from NAPA.

Just to be sure -- to remove the Al line from the QD fitting -- just push the plastic "ears" into the fitting and pull the Al line out?

[Robyn]

Yup, Thats the ticket.

The factory "pot metal" connectors were a mess once they had been in there a few years.

I noticed that your rig has the RED coolant.

If this stuff has ever had any other stuff mixed with it it can cause the stuff to plug up the heater cores and such.

Is that a possibility ??

Missy

[DennisG01]

No - it's always had the cool-aid in it. I've thought about changing it to the green stuff, but I've always been worried about what you're referring to. Plus, when I flushed it, it wasn't too bad. It wasn't as bright as it is now, but it was OK.

[DennisG01]

Oh... I should add some info about my little contraption, in case anyone reading this (now or in the future) needs to do something similar and is not completely sure how to do it (as I originally was).

I used 1/2" garden hose (with 1/2" barbed connectors) to extend the factory heater lines, after first removing them from the "T" connector (I have rear heat). If you don't have rear heat, I'm not sure if you'll have any connector at all.

I used what I had lying around for the bottle - it's an apple juice container - it's got decently stiff sidewalls. The heater hose that would normally go to the core is plumbed to the TOP of the bottle. I simply drilled holes (use a step drill bit) in the cap and the sidewall.

Then, use 1/2" barb to pipe connectors. The connector screws in nice and tight to the cap (don't drill the hole to big the first time - experiment in gradual steps). For the sidewall, I first placed an 0-ring on the 1/2" pipe threads to help seal against the container's sidewall. It sealed "OK", but some AF still dripped out - not enough to worry about, though.

I drained about a gallon of AF out the drain plug on the bottom, port side of the radiator before starting this little project. Then, I put it back in through overflow tank before starting the engine. Years ago, I used Kennedy's tip (from his website) of making an access hole through the metal support (that is right underneath the drain plug). Sooooo much easier!

[Robyn]

10-4 on making an access hole.

I cut a rat hole in the inner fender on DaHooooley to allow accessing the drain cock in the radiator too.

The engineers had their head buried a mile on that one. They give you a drain cock, but no way to get to it without tearing the shroud off first.

Missy

[DennisG01]

In the immortal words of Bo & Luke Duke.... Yeeee Haaawww!!!!

After years of having no rear heat and chalking it up to "well, it's an old system", we now have rear heat, as well! I was hoping for that - as soon as I saw the flow problem, things started clicking... the weight of the rear heat system (amount of fluid) is substantially more than the front. So, of course, as any fluid does, it takes the path of least resistance.

It was almost a "free" repair. After only a few years, though, that little plastic retaining clip (in the QD fitting) just about exploded in my fingers. So, I just unscrewed to whole thing (QD and metal/rubber line) and took it into the work bench. Fished out the remaining pieces of plastic. Got a new Dorman QD fitting from Autozone ($13).


This is the first thing I saw when I took things apart. I was actually a little frightened... it was a bit dark outside so when I took off the QD fitting, all I saw were these two little "tentacles" waving at me! Yikes!



Golly, do you think this might have accounted for the no-heat problem??? They were all wrapped around the little crossbar in the restrictor.




Guys (and of course gal!) - thanks so much! I couldn't have done it without 'yall (still keeping with the Duke theme, there).

And just because I feel so good right now... Yeeeeeeeee Haaaaawwwwww!!!!!!!!!

[DmaxMaverick]

That's great. It's always nice when we have a "Eureka" moment (or a Yee Haw). Looks like someone was a little long on the WP sealant.

[DennisG01]

Looks like someone was a little long on the WP sealant.

I was wondering where it may have came from. Is the water pump the most likely source? Could it have come from somewhere else?

[Robyn]

Whats the track record on the rig??? as in are you the original owner ??


That RTV had to come from somewhere.

Very few places that it could have been used.
Water pump install
Timing cover possibly been off and gooped up upon reinstall
Water crossover

Thats a lot of goop in such long strings.

Would be interesting to know where that came from.

Sure a lot better than having to yank the heater core out.

Glad all is well.

Missy

[DennisG01]

Sure a lot better than having to yank the heater core out.

Yeah, buddy!!!!

The engine was rebuilt about 3 or 4 years ago by Ronnie. But, I bought a new water pump while waiting for the rebuild and had the shop doing the R&R put it on.

[DmaxMaverick]

It's from the water pump install, short of someone just putting the junk in. Crossover, timing cover and other parts would have left much smaller pieces, or wouldn't have been in contact with the coolant (or shouldn't have been). Quite typical, actually. I was hoping to hear it wasn't RJ responsible for that (he knows better).

Using a sealant for WP installation is recommended, but no more should be used than is necessary, which equates to a very thin layer of "glue" on the gasket (same with or without a gasket for the crossover and timing cover). Thick beads will lead to your result. The stuff has to go somewhere.

I suggest a back-flush of both heater cores and the radiator. What you took out is only the stuff that got stuck there.

[DennisG01]

I suggest a back-flush of both heater cores and the radiator. What you took out is only the stuff that got stuck there.

I back flushed it twice this summer (maybe last summer?), so HOPEFULLY it's mostly out. I'll see how things go this winter and give it another flush in the Spring before I start trailering. Probably take a look a look at the stats, as well, just to make sure nothing is caught in there.

[Robyn]

When I do a buildup or an install on a water pump/timing cover, I use the good Felpro gaskets that come with the kits and apply a very thin film of RTV to the gaskets to stick them and keep them sealed, plus allow easy removal later if need be.

The much goop is just waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much.

Somebody was in a hurry and did not want to go get the gaskets is what it looks like.


Missy