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Thread: traction bars

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    new brunswick
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    165

    Default traction bars

    Are traction bars worth installing. If not why and then why do they installl them on all the trucks in the magazines to help with traction?
    2005 gmc 3500 c/c 4x4 dually 2015 Sierra 377FLIK 14,000lbs
    Rebuilt Allison w/ billet torque converter and upgraded clutches
    lly Duramax
    edge juice w/attitude
    Kennedy boost stick
    banks air box
    MBRP 4" SS
    egr blocker plate and finger stick
    head studs

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Arrow

    Traction bars don't really do anything, directly, for traction. They minimize/eliminate axle spring wrap, which helps to prevent wheel hop/chatter, which will help keep the tread in contact with the surface. If you have this condition, you'll have to compare the cost to the return according to your situation. If you are using the vehicle for high power/performance competition (drags, pulls, etc.) they are almost necessary. If you drive frequently on very loose surfaces, such as sand, they will allow better traction at higher tire pressure (prevents bead breaking) without all the chatter.

    It depends on why you think you need them, how much you want/have to spend, and how they will affect the actual conditions. If you aren't experiencing wheel hop or chatter, they'll look cool, but won't help anything. I've had them on previous vehicles, and they got in the way more often than they helped. (YMMV) Are they worth it? Only you can decide.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    Apr 2011
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    klamath Falls, Oregon
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    Default

    Another question of importance?

    Do you ever drive off-road on rough terrain?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gimpyhauler View Post
    Another question of importance?

    Do you ever drive off-road on rough terrain?
    That's basically what I meant by "got in the way", on several levels.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    new brunswick
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    Default

    my axle seems to be turning the pinion up or down a lot more than I think it should. I don't sue it at all except main roads. I pull my trailers which are in the 12000lb range. Other than that daily driver.

    What are my best options for this truck:

    Caltracs or something else.

    Don't want to change anything just prevent possible driveshaft or u-joint damage.
    2005 gmc 3500 c/c 4x4 dually 2015 Sierra 377FLIK 14,000lbs
    Rebuilt Allison w/ billet torque converter and upgraded clutches
    lly Duramax
    edge juice w/attitude
    Kennedy boost stick
    banks air box
    MBRP 4" SS
    egr blocker plate and finger stick
    head studs

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,773

    Default

    The key factor with Caltracs is the ability to adjust preload/anti Squat and get the bars "out of the way" if needed. This was the key factor 10-12+ yrs ago when we had them develop the GM 2500 HD application for Brandon's truck.

    Another less popular method is a single link running parallel to the driveshaft connecting the top of the rear diff center section to a point on a frame crossmember. This would prevent/minimize axle wrap while having minimal impact on ride/squat.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    new brunswick
    Posts
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    Default

    where would I even begin to look for a center link like that.
    2005 gmc 3500 c/c 4x4 dually 2015 Sierra 377FLIK 14,000lbs
    Rebuilt Allison w/ billet torque converter and upgraded clutches
    lly Duramax
    edge juice w/attitude
    Kennedy boost stick
    banks air box
    MBRP 4" SS
    egr blocker plate and finger stick
    head studs

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Loyal WI US
    Posts
    10,773

    Default

    You'd have to build it yourself.

    Years back when I was mud racing I had this done on my truck. I had a local machinist fab up a pin with a wide base that we welded to the top of the housing. I built an additional crossmember and a simple mild steel link bar.
    Kennedy Diesel-owner
    More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
    Superflow Lie Detector in house
    2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
    2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
    2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
    2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
    2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

    Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    683

    Default

    Interesting, so did you use it basically as a pinion snubber to prevent pinion rise under power? If so, was the up down suspension movement affected?

    I like the idea of traction bars, but have never had any that didn't restrict suspension movement too much to suit my ride firmness on the street. On the strip, who cares, you want all the traction you can get.
    02 2500HD LT D/A SB CC 4X4 BLACK, Westin stainless nerf bars, BW GN Hitch,Racor 60S post oem fuel filter, Oil Guard bypass engine oil Filter. All synthetic fluids. Kennedy boost valve, edge, Modified air intake,EGT & Boost digital gauge,TransferFlow combo fuel & tool box, Air Lift Suspesion Bags Rear & compressor with remote, Bilsteins front & rear, Frontier front replacement bumper.

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