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Thread: Ceramic Brake Pads vs standard pads?

  1. #1
    damork Guest

    Post

    Has anyone tried ceramic brake pads in place of the oem or metal particle type pads in their trucks? I see several on the market now and am curious with all other factors equal, do they offer better stopping power?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Arlington,WA,USA
    Posts
    48

    Post

    I put some on mine after the premature demise of the Praise-Dyno Kevlar pads. Concern was for longevity, too soon to say. Stopping power is good, but I don't tow yet.
    1999 GMC Suburban 6.5LT
    AMSOIL 2 stage air filter, 4" free flow exhaust, ISSPro pyro & manifold pressure, FSD Cooler, BD computer, Bilstein shocks, Headlight harness, Evans NPG+ coolant

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, IN, USA
    Posts
    110

    Post

    jmp,
    I've had my Praise Dyno's for about 23000 miles, so far so good. I probably still have at least 75% left on the front pads. Stopping power is much improved over stock. I make it a point to keep my rears adjusted either manually or by auto adjustment (which work real well on my truck) What happened to your pads? Did they just wear out gradually or did you have some sort of sudden failure.

    I do keep a close eye on my front pad wear. It's easy to see the outboard pads through my AR36 cast wheels. I usually rotate my tires myself so that's when I check on the inboard pads. I wasn't in the habit of checking my pads very closely with the old brakes until I chewed up a rotor. That's when I installed the Praise. Don't want to have to change out those rotors again. As you may know, that job is a bear.
    Mike<br />\'99 K2500LT Sub 6.5TD,4:10 grs,8600#gvwr,Praise Dyno brakes,Amsoil Air Fltr,Fumoto Drn Valve,JK\'s Quick Heats,Home Made FSD Clr,LubeSpec oil clr lines, Amsoil bypass,hi idle switch,New Eng 6/02 due to oil clr line failure, Gear Vendor installed

  4. #4
    Uncle Wally Guest

    Post

    I just installed a set of ceramics in mine. Haven't driven it yet as I am waiting on exhaust manifolds to return from the coating place.

    I was told that the stopping power is the same or greater, there is no brake dust to worry about and they last longer. This change was made the same time I replaced rear axle seals, brake shoes etc after they were soaked with gear oil. I wondered why the truck didn't stop well!

    Waldo

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, IN, USA
    Posts
    110

    Question

    I forgot to mention that I do get a lot of "dusting" from my Praise pads. This brings up a question...Assuming that the ceramic pads are a harder material, would they cause increased wear on the rotors? Given the cost of my cryogenic rotors and the labor to pull them I think I would rather put up with the dusting. (for now anyway)

    I remember reading somewhere that it was thought that softer (more sacrificial) pad materails tend to stop better.
    Mike<br />\'99 K2500LT Sub 6.5TD,4:10 grs,8600#gvwr,Praise Dyno brakes,Amsoil Air Fltr,Fumoto Drn Valve,JK\'s Quick Heats,Home Made FSD Clr,LubeSpec oil clr lines, Amsoil bypass,hi idle switch,New Eng 6/02 due to oil clr line failure, Gear Vendor installed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Pitt Meadows, BC, Canada
    Posts
    138

    Post

    I just did the front brakes on my 94 k2500 they were down to the squealers. about 15% left. milage on the stock gm pads 148000 km, 91600 miles. I'v owned this truck since new.
    john
    1995 4X4 auto ext cab all stock
    one owner

  7. #7
    Uncle Wally Guest

    Post

    That's awesome mileage from stock brakes. My 90 was only good for 25000 miles per set. It had 253000 on it when I traded it off. Lot's of brakes!

    Waldo

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

    Post

    I got 60,000 miles out of my "Power Stop" brake pads and rotors (cross drilled and vented). I need to replace them soon as they are getting down. Not sure if I'll need to touch up the rotors yet. I hate to turn the rotors , but a clean up is always nice. A lot of miles towing, including the Rocky Mountain West a few times. GM brakes are the pits but anything can and will help.
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

    Post

    I got 60,000 miles out of my "Power Stop" brake pads and rotors (cross drilled and vented). I need to replace them soon as they are getting down. Not sure if I'll need to touch up the rotors yet. I hate to turn the rotors , but a clean up is always nice. A lot of miles towing, including the Rocky Mountain West a few times. GM brakes are the pits but anything can and will help.
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  10. #10
    Kennedy Guest

    Post

    Typically, the harder the pad, the lesser the stopping power UNLESS you take the soft pads past their fade point...

    Once up to temp, hard pads can do well, but can be a bit slick when cold.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Location
    Wilmington, Ohio
    Posts
    68

    Post

    I have run ceramics on both the truck and the Monte Carlo (and a 94 Sub C1500) and loved them. Less dust, less noise, easier on the rotors, and maybe a little better stopping than a good premium pad (I run/sell NAPA stuff). I did go to the severe duty front pads (NAPA SD's)on the truck for the stop and go towing I do and they are similiar in performance to the ceramics. I do notice the hotter they are the better they bite and on a cold day without a trailer they are a little slick as JK mentioned. Not a problem though.
    \'95 C2500 3.73/4L80E<br />Banks Exhaust/Chip<br />Kennedy Boost Cntrl/Quick Heats<br />Oil/Trans/Boost/EGT Guages<br />Phazer Gear Drive<br />Hi Flow Coolant system<br />FSD Remoted<br />Mahle 18:1 pistons<br />DSG girdle/crank balanced<br />Heads studded/sleeved

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

    Post

    I just replaced mine with new GM pads,and bushings, cleaned the outer edges of the rotors only. Also removed rear drums, and used a gauge to determine proper adjustment. Now I have brakes again with full pedal. I'll give it a good run down to Richmond tomorrow for the weekend, that should be a good test.
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  13. #13
    rustypig Guest

    Post

    Jury is still out on mine as far as wear, but JK seems to have it right...kind of slick till they get used a bit, then seem to have more bite.

    While on this subject, what are your guys thoughts on this. Brakes stop you by the change of energy (kenetic?) from a roll to a stop. This of course is done by friction which creates heat (a lot usually) is it possible to have the same stopping power or better (friction), without the heat by using ceramics?

    I've been wondering if this is why some say they prefer to stay with the softer materials...ie...change pads more often, but get better braking. Just a thought.

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