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Thread: Bumper alterations

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    359

    Default Bumper alterations

    I recently opened up the bumper "nostrils" to allow more air into the radiator area.

    The purpose of the modification is partially for preparations for an intercooler from a 93 Dodge mounted in between the AC condenser and the rad.

    Since you need a front plate on trucks here, I had to lower it to not block the enlarged holes. I cut the plate mount in half in order to move it down and still use the original lower bolt holes. Basically, I ran it through the table saw (!) twice and removed a couple inches from the middle. Then I used some jb kwik and reinforcements to put it back together.



    Then I Measured out the new holes and taped them for a reference point while cutting. I proceeded to cut the inner nostril edge out with the cut off wheel and set the piece aside. Then I cut out the enlarged hole.

    Now I had my opening, but it was a nasty raw hole. I grab the inner radius I set aside earlier and spark up the welder. Nice factory style edge was the result. Then it was a couple filler pieces made from the cut out portions to make a new edge that mimicked the factory stamping.



    Once it was all done, a shot of primer protects it for now. The whole bumper will go out for chroming once I get it where I want it.



    Ahhh, I like it. That's the diesel bumper GMC should have stamped out in the first place IMHO.

    The lights in the bumper are photoshoped, but I'm thinking of mounting them in there also.

    Oh, one last thing; those aren't ricer halogen projectors. Well, they started out that way. I bought them for the housings, gutted them and installed Acura TSX HID projector housings in them. 4300K capsules, natch.

    I wouldn't buy a set of them if you weren't doing something similar. On a larf I tried them out as delivered and the light was worse (or as bad) as the OEM yellowed housings. Absolute crap.

    To say the light output is "better" with the TSX projector retrofit is a bit of an understatement.

    I can see those Moose in the road a long way off now.......

    Last edited by greatwhite; 06-03-2012 at 07:15.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Pauline, SC
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    618

    Default

    Looks real good.... I have seen on fleebay a plastic air dam that goes inside those bumpers and turns air up to the rad but mine didn't come with one....I don't know what year they started using it...
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    359

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    Looks real good.... I have seen on fleebay a plastic air dam that goes inside those bumpers and turns air up to the rad but mine didn't come with one....I don't know what year they started using it...
    Mine already has it installed.
    1998 k2500

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Allentown, PA
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    Default

    Those holes look really nice!

    Don't know if I'll do it, but I'm very curious about how you made the cut portion of the new holes have that "rolled" look. I read what you mentioned above, but I'm not quite getting it. Can you talk more about that?
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Kennedy ECM & IC, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, 3.5" Kennedy Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Default

    Look a the green tape in the second pic in the first post. Those are my cut lines.

    Cut the edge of the hole out, move it over to the new hole close to the center of the bumper and butt weld.

    Shape a few pieces of scrap on the metal brake to just a bit more than 90 degrees and trim to fit the missing pieces in the lip. Butt weld, grind flat, finish with a flap wheel.

    Shoot with a bit of "chrome paint" to stave off the rust until you can send it off for rechroming.

    Done.



    Closer to the finished product (rough welding done) and fog lights cut into the bumper:

    http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=40927
    1998 k2500

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Allentown, PA
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    Default

    Ah, got it. Thanks.

    It really does look nice!
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Kennedy ECM & IC, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, 3.5" Kennedy Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Got to the fog lights today.

    I had already previously cut the raw openings and hung the lights:



    But it was very raw.

    So, I fabbed some "buckets" from 2" flat stock while I was fabbing up the subwoofer guard:



    Then I fitted them to the bumper and welded them in. A bit of grinding finished the raw shape and a shot of "bumper chrome" will protect it until I can get back to finishing it up super smooth:





    Most will only see a minimal difference, but it looks better than just raw cut openings and goes a long way towards looking more integrated and OEM.

    It also allows for proper set back into the opening so the lights at least have a chance of survival in a front end tap. With them in the raw openings, the lens portion stood proud of the bumper front surface. They're KC lx2's, so the lens is actually angled to throw more light to the side:



    With the angled lens, they now follow the curvature of the bumper when the housing is pointed straight forward for a nice clean look.

    As you can see, I've only got one side done so far but it's well on it's way to looking more finished.

    Final smoothing after fab is done and re-chroming will make it all look tickety-boo.

    I like it!

    Last edited by greatwhite; 08-06-2012 at 15:34.
    1998 k2500

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Allentown, PA
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    Default

    You had me 'till "tickety-boo"...
    1998 K2500 Suburban 6.5L TD 3.73 rear, Ron Schoolcraft 18:1, Kennedy ECM & IC, Timing gears, Splayed main caps, 3.5" Kennedy Exhuast/No Cat, K&N Filter, Boost/Tranny Temp/EGT(Pre Turbo), Ceramic-coated Manifolds, 195 Stat's, 265/75's (VSSB Adjusted) 7,000lbs (on a scale) Remote Mount Oil Filter, Remote Oil Pressure Sensor

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