AC High side schrader leaking

[greatwhite]

2 weeks ago I replaced the AC compressor.

It had the typical "belly leak" the HT6 gets at the case joints.

Since I don't have the proper equipment to pull it down, i had a local shop swap out the compressor and recharge the system.

Worked great, life's good!

But............

The other day, I noticed it was short cycling.

Crap.

I have a looky see and when I try to unscrew the high side "dust cap" it hisses and bubbles PAG oil.

Crappy damned schrader is leaking and we all know that little black plastic cap ain't gonna seal squat!

Now, here's the question;

Is the schrader replaceable or do I have to replace the line?

Can I safely replace the schrader at home and have it recharged?

Is the schrader like a tire valve schrader and could I use a tire schrader tool to see if I can tweak the valve in an attempt to get it too seat/seal?

I've read a couple "crazy like" posts on the web about pulling the schrader and sticking a finger over the port, but that just sounds like trouble for your poor old finger.

I'd like to be able to tweak it at home and ad a top off can as it's still pressurized, just low.

I'd sure like to avoid another $200-300 trip to the local jobbers shop for work I can do myself and to risk loosing another full charge to atmosphere.....

[colinr]

If it wasn't leaking before you took it to the shop, and now it is and they didn't check the valve or just didn't care then IMHO it's for them to fix and recharge the system for the cost of a new valve which they should have fitted. My 2c worth.

[jamesm]

There is a little gizmo with which the core can be changed without venting the charge. Any shop should have one, or buy it at the auto tool supply of choice.

The core does not match a tire core, not will that tool work.

[DmaxMaverick]

You can use a tire valve tool to tighten it, but you'll have to modify it. Use a narrow file (jeweler's) to widen the gap until it fits. Or, just buy the cheap tool that fits.

If the shop did a correct service, they would have connected to the high side. Doing so may have disturbed the valve, or it failed to seat properly. You can try "bumping" the valve core stem. It may reseat and seal. You're losing refrigerant anyway, and you'll lose a lot less by bumping it than waiting. You can service it yourself once the leak is "fixed".

Or, insist the shop take care of it. Once released as "repaired/serviced", they are certifying (lawfully) the system is functional and within compliance. A leaky valve is NOT within compliance.

[greatwhite]

I wish shops were that accountable here. "Warranty" only seems to last until its out the front door. I hate living in an isolated location.....2 more years and the military moves me back off this miserable rock.

I'm going to try pulling the black cap off today and see if will reseat with a "poke" or "wiggle".

If that doesn't work I guess it will be valve replacement and another recharge.

Sheesh, what a pita. Almost worth buying a vacuum machine to pull it down and recharge it myself...

[Hooptybass]

You can buy the cheap vacuum machines that run off and air compressor and Harbor freight or other tool stores and do it yourself . Or do like i did and buy an old R-12 ac machine and convert it over to 134

[Robyn]

The fact that your system was recently fully charged gives you a little option.

Bleed the system off to zero pressure, swap the schrader quickly and then recharge.

NOW, most 134 systems dont have schrader valve, but instead a ball seat arrangement and the entire valve port simply unscrews from the line assembly.


What year of truck ???


Missy

[greatwhite]

The fact that your system was recently fully charged gives you a little option.

Bleed the system off to zero pressure, swap the schrader quickly and then recharge.

NOW, most 134 systems dont have schrader valve, but instead a ball seat arrangement and the entire valve port simply unscrews from the line assembly.


What year of truck ???


Missy

1998.

It's the ball seat.

[greatwhite]

Well, here we are 3 days later.

I poked the ball a couple times with a blunt drift until it seemed to seal.

Screwed the dust cap back on.

Then topped the system off with a can of "top off stuff".

Fingers crossed, but it's still good so far.

No short cycling and doesn't appear to be leaking....

[Robyn]

Sounds like you may have it handled.

Spray a little soapy solution on the thing and see if you get any bubbles at all.

It takes very little to make the ball seats leak. just any little thing in there can do it.

Good luck and hope it stays good.

Missy