Died like it was turned off

[ccc]

As I speak, my 1997 K1500 6.5S model is sitting on the side of the road. The truck started hard as usual, ran just fine as usual for about five miles then the motor died as if you had shut off the key. I ran the codes and I have a code for a high turboboost (have had that for a while) Egr code (have the egr blocked) but there is one code I haven't seen; it is a code for a high timing readout. don't remember exactly what the number was. I changed the fuel pump fuse, checked the fuel solenoid fuse. I also tried a spare FSD, turns over fast but doesn't even act like it is getting fuel. That is all I was able to do on the side of the road. Any suggestions?

[greatwhite]

First off let me say; bummer.

It's never a great feeling when you vehicle leaves you stranded.

You're fairly limited on what you can do by the side of the road.

Swapping the pmd/fsd is the usual quick fix, but youve already done that.

The codes for timing can be related to the pmd, but as mentioned, you've tried that.

Timing could also be an optical sensor or a crank sensor, not something you can adress on the side of the road very well and would be a shot in the dark without more troubleshooting first. Air in the fuel can also cause timing faults related to the optical sensor. Again, not easily dealt with by the side of the road. The actual code it threw would be helpful.

With the high boost code I'm assuming you're running a mechanical wastegate control. But that's not really relevant to your immediate problem.

Next I would try cracking an injector line nut to see if fuel is making I there. If no fuel I would check the fuel shut off solenoid to see if it is working. If the solenoid fails it cuts fuel to the pump immediately.

If the shut off solenoid has failed, you can remove the pintle off the end and thread it back in. The truck will run, but you should only drive it home. An electronic 6.5 should shut off with the key and not run away, but if the fuel delivery solenoid on the pump should fail open, you don't have a fuel shut off solenoid to kill it.

It's really should be a just a one time "get you home" fix.

You're pretty limited to what you can trouble shoot on the side of the road. If these quick things don't get it running, you're probably looking at a tow bill to get it home.

Then you can get into checking fuel lines, grounds, etc...

Good luck getting it running.

[ccc]

Oh boy. I ended up having it towed to a shop since I was in a suit but I got a call today telling me they wouldn't work on the truck! This, despite the fact that they have changed the oil, they said they forgot it was a diesel!!!! When I called them and told them it was down they asked what it was and I said a 6.5 detroit, I guess I should have added diesel. Anyway, I am going to tow it home with a chain and a bar in a bit. At least I will have it home and can start working on it here. I will start with the fuel shut off valve (there) and see if that does it. If not, I will need some serious help here. Thanks for your help greatwhite.

[greatwhite]

Quick note for you; don't turn the key on with the shutoff solenoid removed or the lift pump will pump fuel out through the hole in the ip.

You can pull the pump fuse or unplug the pump electrical connector if you want to see if the plunger/pintle opens with key on power.

I would suggest sliding under the truck and unplugging the lift pump as the most certain way.

[ccc]

Okay Greatwhite, I got her towed home (lots of fun at 105 degrees!) at least it's home with no excitement! I pulled the fuel shutoff solenoid and placed contacts on the plug with a multimeter. With the multimeter turned to Ohms, the needle was all the way to the left until I completed the contact, at which time the needle went to the far right, which, if I read this right says 0 Ohms. As you can see I am not very competent with a multimeter! Encouraged that I may have found my failure, I placed small clips on each terminal plug of the solenoid and energized them to the battery and got....Nothing! I think that sounds good right? SO, at this point, my plan is to buy a new solenoid and see if she starts up. Let me know if it appears I did the Ohm test right. Thanks for the help and let me know your suggestion.

[greatwhite]

Okay Greatwhite, I got her towed home (lots of fun at 105 degrees!) at least it's home with no excitement! I pulled the fuel shutoff solenoid and placed contacts on the plug with a multimeter. With the multimeter turned to Ohms, the needle was all the way to the left until I completed the contact, at which time the needle went to the far right, which, if I read this right says 0 Ohms. As you can see I am not very competent with a multimeter! Encouraged that I may have found my failure, I placed small clips on each terminal plug of the solenoid and energized them to the battery and got....Nothing! I think that sounds good right? SO, at this point, my plan is to buy a new solenoid and see if she starts up. Let me know if it appears I did the Ohm test right. Thanks for the help and let me know your suggestion.

If I understand you correctly, you put 12v to the solenoid and it didn't move?

If yes, then a failure ofthe solenoid is highly likely.

If you want to confirm the solenoid is your problem, simply remove the pintle on the end of the rod and screw it back in to the ip.

If you try to start the truck and it fires up, your solenoid is definitely toast...

[Robyn]

I asgree, that if the solenoid does not move when 12V is applied, then the solenoid has failed.

I do not recommend trying the solenoid without the pintle ! ! ! !
The shut off solenoid is the only shut off safety between you and a complete runaway should there be another issue.

Get a fresh solenoid and replace the failed one.

be safe and good luck.

Missy

[ccc]

Thanks greatwhite and Robyn, I couldn't find a fuel shutoff solenoid in town so I ordered one online. I should have it in five to seven days, I will update you when I get it put on. Thanks for all your help.

[ccc]

Okay, not good news. I changed the fuel shutoff solenoid but the truck didn't start. I cracked a fuel line at the injector and it was dry. I then made sure I had fuel coming out the top side of the fuel filter, all good. I checked to make sure the new solenoid was energizing, and it is. I unpluged the optical sensor (seems like I read here that someone suggested that) and finally I got some fuel out of the cracked line. It could be coincedence. I ran the codes and they are, 0236, 0238, 0380 and 0406. I am wondering if the truck sucked all the fuel out of the pump when the fuel shut off valve failed and if so, would that make it hard to reprime? I finally ran the batteries down so I quit. Any help is appreciated, I have no idea where to go from here.

[greatwhite]

It can be a beotch to prime a pump and the lines after a "run dry" scenario.

Is it running at all?

If not and given your description, I would lean toward air stil in the pump and lines....

I haven't looked up your codes so there could still be a clue in those.

[ccc]

No the truck is not running at all but your assessment is really good news. I will crack a few more lines and see if I can get fuel to weep. Thanks greatwhite for staying with me.

[greatwhite]

Just be careful on that starter.

Short crank times, lots of cool off time.....

Or, pull out the glow plugs. Not necessary but it will make it easier and faster to turn over.

I wouldn't recommend pulling the plugs if they aren't relatively new (like a couple months new). Break one and you life get a bit more miserable.

You don't need that right now.

Don't be surprised if it runs like crap for a minute when you get it started. It will be purging air for a few turns before it clears up if you have a lot in there....

[billy1971]

Fellas I hope this is not inapproiate to jump in on someone elses thread but starting yesterday this entire senerio is step for step exactly what im going through with my 95 3500. A week ago I ran mine out of fuel, added fuel, drove to the station and filled up (about two miles). Yesterday, I tried to start it up for quick run to pick up a Tahoe I just purchased, Nothing!! I have bypassed the fuel relay and purged the lines and filter, I have fuel pressure to the pump, changed the shut off valve, swapped PMDs twice, cracked the injector lines with no fuel coming out of them. Also tried starting fluid just enough to see it will fire and try to start. After driving this for two miles I cant beleive there is air in the system. The pump is a junk yard pump about two years old and one of the best running pumps ive had so i hate to replace it unless i have to. At this point I have about convinced myself the inj pump is the problem but Ya'll brought up the crank shaft sensor and Im not sure what part this sensor plays or how to inspect or test this sensor. Can you help?

[billy1971]

Ok I'll start a new thread.

[ccc]

Awesome Yukon6.2 that's exactly what I will do! Good luck Billy1971, I hope your issue goes smoother than mine is!

[ccc]

Eureka! Okay I didn't discover how to determine the volume of gold but I did get the broken bolt out of the block! Thanks to the advice and encouragement of the folk here! To make sure I didn't drill off to the side of the broken bolt, I cut a one inch piece of the bolt and drilled through it to use as a guide. I then put it on the drill bit leaving about 1/8th of the bit exposed. Using a left turn bit (as suggested) I began to drill out the broken bolt. As I put pressure on the bolt, it began to unscrew and in just a few minutes, it worked it's way to the point where I could reach it with my fingers and remove it. I am leaving town shortly for a few days but when I get back I am going to put a bone yard starter on and see if this truck starts! Thanks again to all for helping and encouraging.

[JFerg65]

Glad to hear it came right out for you. I like how you center drilled a section of the old bolt to keep you from wandering. I will definitely file that tip away for future reference. It sure is a good feeling when something that has the potential to turn into a real cluster #$%^ ends up working slicker than snot!!!

Hope you get back on the road soon.

[brumpomatic2020]

Hello, I know this thread is old, what was the final solution to your problem OP?


I'm having the same or similar problem with my 99 6.5 ~214k miles, starts fine and runs fine...until sometimes, won't start or dies, then won't start. We have had this truck since 2010 but this year (2020) left me stranded a few times, had it towed to a few diesel experts, they cost a lot to diagnose, none could say for sure what the problem is.


When it won't start I notice the WTS light flashes for a second and the lift pump also runs for a second but truck will not start. If I disconnect one of the fuel lines from the injector there is no fuel coming out when spinning the starter.(when it does start WTS stays on for 5-10 seconds, I can hear the lift running and then it starts right up, runs great! fuel flows out of the T at 5-6psi)

So, this year I put in new batteries, changed the PMD (moved it to the bumper with an extension cable), tried another pmd in the bumper, (even removed the PMD extension and put a new PMD in original location next to injection pump), checked grounds in engine compartment, new fuel filter, new fuel sock, new air filter, cleaned the strainers in both fuel filter housing and injector pump, replaced the starter, replaced the OPS, fuel cutoff switch, ECT sensor, changed the fuses (ecm-I, ecm-B, etc), changed fuel pump relay, changed ignition switch, new glow plugs. No OBD-II codes.

Several times when it wouldn't start I tried disconnecting the optical fuel sensor in the injection pump, occasionally it would start in 'limp mode' (long time cranking to start, then barely runs), turn it off, plug optical sensor back in, starts like normal. Btw, with the optical fuel sensor disconnected there were 2-3 optical sensor or fuel injection timing related codes, those codes went away with the sensor connected.

People say must be the injection pump is worn out! Could be, but why does it sometimes start right up and run great... Not excited about spending any more $ on this truck to experiment, especially don't want to spend the time/$$$ on a new injection pump on a hunch.

...I read there's a piece of rubber hose behind the the fuel filter that connects the fuel filter to the steel line from the lift pump, it gets kinked then no fuel to the injection pump...I'll check that rubber fuel line. Thinking now maybe glow plug control module is bad, somehow signaling the computer to turn off the lift pump, never changed it, that would be an easy fix, perhaps that's a safety feature...also, I haven't replaced the glow plug wires, ever (just noticed the connectors are loose where they attach to the glow plugs)...I wonder if the ECM/computer is going bad or a connection to it or a bad ground someplace...Or the main fuel relay on the back of the injection pump is worn out or some part of the harness is bad/corroded?...


Want to be able to use this truck and rely on it again, it has been very good, any help would be appreciated!! OP...? Anyone...?

[brumpomatic2020]

I wonder if there's an air leak in the fuel supply...?

[a5150nut]

I wonder if there's an air leak in the fuel supply...?

put some clear line on the fuel return line to see if there are bubbles