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Thread: Ball joints

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    USA, Maryland, Bel Air
    Posts
    9

    Default Ball joints

    1996 K3500 CC DRW 4x4 long box 178/,000ish
    (purchased used for work truck, so I dont know the true history)

    I am going to attempt the upper and lower ball joints. It appears that the uppers were rivited in, since they have bolts on them (replaced previously), but the lowers seem pressed....Is this possible? Is there any tricks or insight on doing the lowers?

    Two other items on the fixing block....all new front brakes....calipers, rotors, hoses. How difficult is it to get that rotor off(this is a 4X4)?

    Lastly, stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings was missing from the drivers side. I picked up a replacement, but cant seem to compress the suspension enough to get enough threads to show on the bolt to nut it. I read that I may have to unload the torsion bar.....any insight here?

    Many thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,058

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gene888 View Post
    stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings was missing from the drivers side. I picked up a replacement, but cant seem to compress the suspension enough to get enough threads to show on the bolt to nut it.
    Are you sure the new one is the same length as the other one? If the truck is sitting level there should be no tension on either end of the sway bar.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    32

    Default

    If your truck is a 3500 DRW you will have to remove the axle nut to get at it.
    Bolted on from the back.

    Duane

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Martinsville, IN
    Posts
    3,163

    Default

    The lower ball joints are pressed in. They're not that hard to get out.

    To get the rotor off, disconnect the wheel speed sensor wire at the frame and hold the wire back out of the way. Remove the brake caliper and tie it out of the way. Remove the axle nut. Remove the four bolts coming into the hub from the back side of the spindle. Use a slide hammer or other suitable tool to knock the hub out of the spindle. Once the hub and rotor are off the truck, drive the wheel lug bolts out and the rotor will fall off.

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