Any problem with drilling, tapping and using a thread insert for a stripped starter bolt hole??
Enthusiast
stripped starter bolt hole
Any problem with drilling, tapping and using a thread insert for a stripped starter bolt hole??
Mark Chapman DP member #653;
1983 K2500 6.2 Suburban, 4" lift, 35" tires, ATS turbo, Banks exhaust/intake, pyrometer, tachometer;
1986 K5 6.2 Blazer, 2" lift, 33" tires, Banks intake, pyrometer, tachometer
1963 wife, one owner, average mileage for the age but in excellent shape, a keeper
1992 daughter, low mileage, pretty, limited edition, but requires some money to maintain
1995 son, sports model, very fast & peppy, time will tell on durability and maintenance costs
"Grease is good"
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
That will work fine.
Just be sure to get the thread coil below the area that the knurled shank of the bolt goes into.
Measure the depth of the shoulder area and place the insert accordingly
Good luck
Missy
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
Will do.
Always wondered, what is the function of "knurling" on the bolt shank?
The Helicoil set I have is a standard thread pitch and it doesn't match the factory bolts. I'm guessing they must be metric. So I'm picking up a matching bolt at the store - probably won't have the knurling on it.
Mark Chapman DP member #653;
1983 K2500 6.2 Suburban, 4" lift, 35" tires, ATS turbo, Banks exhaust/intake, pyrometer, tachometer;
1986 K5 6.2 Blazer, 2" lift, 33" tires, Banks intake, pyrometer, tachometer
1963 wife, one owner, average mileage for the age but in excellent shape, a keeper
1992 daughter, low mileage, pretty, limited edition, but requires some money to maintain
1995 son, sports model, very fast & peppy, time will tell on durability and maintenance costs
"Grease is good"
Administrator
If you use "starter bolts", they'll have the knurling on them. If you use non-starter bolts (smooth shank or all-thread), they'll loosen, and probably cause the starter housing to break, or worse (like break the block). The bolt shank knurling does a better job of keeping it tight than Loc-Tite. The Heli-Coil you need is a deep thread, specifically designed to replace starter mount threads, similar to head bolt repairs. I do not recommend using a hardware store bolt. If you must use SAE bolts, get previous year starter bolts of similar size.
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
The knurled shank fits snug in the hole to help take the load off the threads and stabilize the bolt in the hole.
Yess, the threads on all the bolts in a 6.2/6.5 are metric (except the bell housing bolts are 3/8-16 butttttttt the 96 and later blocks have metric there too
The Starter bolts are a special dealer item as well, due to the knurled shank.
This is another portion of the entire package to keep the starters from ripping off the engine.
With a standard bolt, the bolt can wiggle in the threads some and will eventually wobble out the bolt hole and ultimately break the ear off the block.
Also, never run without the tail hook attached.
Missy
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Building another 6.2L powered vehicle
Napa has always had the starter bolts in their HELP section for a few bucks any time I've walked in there.
05 2500HD CC LB LLY, 4x4, 3.73s 235/85R16's, webasto cab heater, to keep it warm.
03 Buick Rendezvous - When you average over 80 miles per day driving around, you need one of these.
85 K-5, 6.2, SM465, Rockwell T221, 1 tons, 36's. More goodies to be installed as time and money allows.
82 K20, 6.2, SM465, NP208, stock except for bed rack, snow plow, and glow plugs are on a toggle switch. It works great for plowing!
72 Postal Jeep - Yet another project
Enthusiast
Will hit NAPA on the way home. Did some more internet research and to add to what DMav said, I read that GM used the SAE 3/8 - 16 bolts up to 1981 and switched to 10MM x 1.5 bolts in 1982.
Thanks for the responses....
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