help! engine not running after swap
I'm stuck with a non-working engine after a swap despite new injectors, rebuilt pump, etc.
here is what happened:
I bought a used 6.2 engine to replace the tired and leaking one in my 1984 gmc van. the seller claimed it was a crate engine from a gm dealership which they put in a blazer outfitted with a banks turbo. the car got totaled after 60k on the motor. I bought it without the turbo.
- i had the ip rebuilt at Diesel Care in Memphis. .
-I bought rebuilt van injectors from Mylex International (ebay)
-I replaced the timing set and water pump.
-I replaced the mechanical lift pump w/ an electrical lp (same as in the diesel page improvement book).
-new stanadyne fuel filter. new batteries, new g60 glow plugs.
-I transferred the van injection lines from the old engine. i bled the fuel line and the injectors several times.
after the engine swap I couldn't get the engine started without using wd40. it produces heaps of whitish/greyish smoke in all rpm's. when warmed up I can barely keep the engine at idle and it will stall after blipping the throttle or after revving.
I advanced the timing in small increments all the way (1/4" to the driver side off the mark) to the end of the slots but it still produces only white smoke. I tried the other way (retarding ), too. still the same.
it appears the pump timing gear would be a tooth or more off. but when I assembled the timing set I was absolutely precise, both cam and pump gears. cannot do much wrong, the cam gear marks matched when pulling onto the shafts. lower pump gear goes only one way matching the woodruff key. the marks of the pump gears matched too. the glow plugs work properly. the injection line fittings are dry now (after several times retightening. would weep when tightened to only 20 ft lbs).
I had to interrupt the work due to other obligation.
now in hindsight ( a week later) it occurred to me that I might have kinked the metal fuel return line at the very end (passenger side) when I bent it to have a proper angle for the hose connection. I have to check it when I'm back.
what happens if the return line is completely blocked off? how many degrees does the ip retard due to housing pressure?
here again the symptoms:
-very hard to start, only with wd40
-plenty of whitish/greyish smoke in all rpm's. diminishes only verly slightly after 20 min.
-only after warming up for at least 10 min it's possible to (barely) keep the motor in idle.
-hardly any black smoke at any ip timing position and rpm's.
- hardly any change in rpm/white smoke when changing ip timing position.
any ideas, advice??
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