Bell Housing Bolts

[CedarGrove]

One in particular...Top driver's side on a 95. How the heck do you get at that booger. I have the passenger side already but the driver's side has me stalled. Special wrench? From the top? From the bottom? I have seen it done from the top before but can't remember what wrench the guy used. Tearing my hair out. Is it in fact a 13mm?

Lewis

[Robyn]

The two top ones are stud top bolts.

The nut is a 13mm IIRC, and yesssssss these two are a bitch.

The fuel in and out lines come up through a bracket there.

On our 94 Burb I removed the bracket and rerouted the lines under the drivers foot area (under the body) and then up behind the hydro booster and then tied the in and out lines back to the engine.

The only real mods were to add a fastener to the floor to keep the lines fastened securely.

I just added a couple push lock connectors with clamps and more hose to reach up top.

This made getting to the top bell housing bolts far easier.

The top nuts/bolts are pretty much a team effort with a loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong extension, a wiggly socket
and patience.

Bring the extension up from way back.

Use 1/2 drive to maintain a decent stability in the long extension.

3/8 is handy, but when you get on it the extensions twist up a buttload before anything happens.

OHHHHH, the small nuts (13mm heads) are lock nuts, at least from the factory.

A little trick to gain some room.

Remove the rear tranny mount and lower the tranny down onto the cross member, this will give more room between the bell housing and the fire wall, and it also makes the angle of attack on the bolts better.

Good luck

Missy

[trbankii]

Pretty much what Robyn said. Replacing the clutch pretty much convinced me that the only design consideration they had was how to assemble it on the assembly line. Everything makes perfect sense if you're starting with a frame and adding components to it - with the cab going on AFTER the whole drivetrain is in place...

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
As Robyn said...
Remover the fuel block/line unit and then drop the trans tail-end down as much as possible.
Try to pull as much of the wiring out of the way without breaking any connectors Use a 3 foot extension with a good quality wobble deep socket(not universal joint). Have the other-person lean over the top of the engine and set/hold the socket on while you run the impact.

I have done it by myself from the top with a shorty ratchet wrench...but I was young, impervious to pain and enjoyed the sight of my own blood....;-)

It is also MUCH easier if you have a lift and are NOT working on your back!

Hope this helps!

[CedarGrove]

I got that sum bitch from up top with a custom bent end wrench but it was like some kind of illegal fraternity hazing. The stud is 9/16 but the nut on this bracket is 13 mm. If I ever find the guy that spec'd that, I will beat him with a DS4.

Anyway...She's up and out. Now I need to move the goodies over to my rebuilt GEP and slap it back in.

Thanks for the tips y'all.

Lewis

[Yukon6.2]

I got that sum bitch from up top with a custom bent end wrench but it was like some kind of illegal fraternity hazing. The stud is 9/16 but the nut on this bracket is 13 mm. If I ever find the guy that spec'd that, I will beat him with a DS4.

Anyway...She's up and out. Now I need to move the goodies over to my rebuilt GEP and slap it back in.

Thanks for the tips y'all.

Lewis

The saying in a lot of forums is "pic's or it didn't happen"

[CedarGrove]

Did I mention I was working on a gravel driveway? Oh lordy.