My started broke the nose off and i put a new one on but now it just grind dont catch enough of the flywheel to turn the motor over its just grinds
Newbie
6.5 starter
My started broke the nose off and i put a new one on but now it just grind dont catch enough of the flywheel to turn the motor over its just grinds
Enthusiast
Do you have the brace on it? Or are you just mounted thru the bolts to the block?
If no brace get one and put it on ASAP!
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-Patrick Henry
A5150nut
2006 K3500 D/A
94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold
Newbie
6-5 started
Yea i have the brace but not sure how it goes on
Administrator
You should remove the starter and check the block for cracked starter bolt holes. This can happen when the starter housing breaks. Even without the brace, the starter should engage correctly, (almost, until it breaks again). Bent bolts can also cause this, and should be replaced with new (OEM!!), especially after breaking the housing. Also, NO shims should be needed, even if included with a new starter. The need of shims is usually an indicator of another serious problem.
Newbie
6-5 started
Thank you for telling that info.i got it the shop now i guess they will find out what went wrong thank you
Enthusiast
I would not recommend anybody ever try starting a 6.5 without the brace installed.Originally Posted by a5150nut
A shop replaced the starter on my son's truck and tested it before installing the brace. Broke the block, the first hit of the key.
98 GMC Suburban 2500 6.5 4x4 260,000 mi, Fluidamper, remote PMD, FS2500
96 GMC 6.5 Suburban 1500 4x4 320,000 mi; Fluidamper, remote PMD, Amsoil bypass, K47 air filter
95 Tahoe 2 door 4x4 6.5 320,000 mi; Fluidamper, Amsoil bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter
1989 GMC Sierra 2500 2wd 5 spd get-rag trans 800,000 mi.
95 Chevy 2500 xtra-cab 2wd 6.5 190,000 miles,
1994 chev K3500, FS2500 bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter 290,000 miles
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 160,000 mi. 10-21-2015
91 international 4700 low pro, spicer 6 speed, DTA 360 with 18' van box 500,000 miles plus.
Newbie
Can it be fixed if the bolthole is crack
Enthusiast
Possibly, but doubtful. All depends on how it's broke
98 GMC Suburban 2500 6.5 4x4 260,000 mi, Fluidamper, remote PMD, FS2500
96 GMC 6.5 Suburban 1500 4x4 320,000 mi; Fluidamper, remote PMD, Amsoil bypass, K47 air filter
95 Tahoe 2 door 4x4 6.5 320,000 mi; Fluidamper, Amsoil bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter
1989 GMC Sierra 2500 2wd 5 spd get-rag trans 800,000 mi.
95 Chevy 2500 xtra-cab 2wd 6.5 190,000 miles,
1994 chev K3500, FS2500 bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter 290,000 miles
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 160,000 mi. 10-21-2015
91 international 4700 low pro, spicer 6 speed, DTA 360 with 18' van box 500,000 miles plus.
Enthusiast
Howdy
I have repaired two of them. As far as I know they both held.
They were out of the trucks and disassembled.
If it cracked/broke it would VERY hard if not impossible to repair in the vehicle.
1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's
1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!
Administrator
As said previously, much depends on how it is cracked. The "Lock 'n Stitch" method is very often effective. Others can be welded or cross-bolted. It needs to visit a competent machine shop, on a pallet. In almost any case, trying a repair with the engine installed is an exercise in futility. If it's loose as it is, it isn't likely an in-frame repair candidate. A cross-bolt may be an option, which can be done (reluctantly) in-frame, but I'd have to see it up close before I would suggest it. Some REALLY GOOD pics would be helpful.
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
I have repaired one block.
It was out of the rig and all the way down to BARE
We stuffed the block in the mill and notched it out and carefully fitted a new chunk of steel into the area.
We cross bolted the new piece into the block.
Was a PITA BUT HELD FINE.
With the engine in the truck there is no room.
It could be done with the engine out on the floor and some careful use of a small disc grinder to cut out the broken area and then fit in a block of steel that's drilled and tapped for the starter bolt.
Then add a heavy strap up the edge of the block and bolt in place.
It's not a pretty picture no matter what.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
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