Newbie With a 1983 G Series Van & 6.2

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Possible that you have a serious bad fuel issue and that would explain allot of your symptoms. . I would first try a separate fuel tank, maybe a boat tank or some other source, and see if that fixes everything. Then go to the remove the tank option.

[Bigshankhank]

Howdy
Possible that you have a serious bad fuel issue and that would explain allot of your symptoms. . I would first try a separate fuel tank, maybe a boat tank or some other source, and see if that fixes everything. Then go to the remove the tank option.

As it so happens there is a small boat tank inside, I think the PO had it to run the generator as the original generator tank had rusted through. Unfortunately he took the genset with him when he sold it, but hey, free gas tank.
I will give that a try, but regardless I think we will need to drop the main tank to rehab the sending unit (the dash fuel gauge reads beyond full all the time).

[Dvldog8793]

If you do have scum in your tank it is likely that you will need to replace the filters again.

[Bigshankhank]

If you do have scum in your tank it is likely that you will need to replace the filters again.

Yeah, this had occurred to me. Filters are cheap, relatively speaking.

[Bigshankhank]

This is my current lift pump configuration (sorry for the crappy picture). So the OEM pump was disconnected and an inline electric pump has been added. A replacement mechanical pump is $15 at Rockauto, considering my potential fueling problems is there any reason I shouldn't just go back to the OEM setup? I figure GM engineer's designed it with the mechanical pump for a reason, who am I to contradict them?

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
IMHO- The mechanical pump is the best route for this application.
It is just-as if not more reliable than the electric. IF you use the electric you need to have a safety system built in so that when the engine shuts down(other than the key) it shuts off the fuel. If not, then in a possible accident or other situation, it will be draining your fuel tank all over the place.
Get good mechanical pump, clean the tank(replace???) verify fuel lines, replace filters again and the see what happens.
Ditch the electric.
The only benefits to the electric pump are when you replace the filters it is easier to prime the system and if you have a weak injection pump the electric lift pump can help with starting. Neither of these benefits are something that is worth the hassle and dangers of a properly installed electric pump SYSTEM....imho.
FYI- If you have nasty fuel in the tank, its very possible that it sat in the injection pump as well and could have some issues.

[Bigshankhank]

Cool, thanks. I figured it was cheap insurance to go back to the factory setup.

[Bigshankhank]

Sombitch, now the glow plugs aren't lighting up. My daughter's boyfriend was swapping burned out fuses the other day, I fear that he took the glow plug fuse out.

[Bigshankhank]

Glow plug diagnosis help.
Current symptom; when I turn the key to the run position, the dash glow plug light does NOT illuminate, nor does the solenoid on the back of the driver's side head click. Step one in everything I've read is to start with the fuse, but I cannot locate it. Any guidance on where I will find it? My fuse panel beneath the dash is old and I cannot make out what should be what down there. However I am not seeing any 20a fuses which are burned-out.
Thanks

[Bigshankhank]

While searching for the glow plug fuse, I went ahead and followed the wiring and controller testing procedure and come to find out that the controller is showing too much resistance on the 2 - 3 pin test (reading 1.8ohms, spec is .4 - .7ohm). So looks like the controller needs to go.

[Dvldog8793]

Just fyi, Ive been running my blazer for 3 years without a controller. I use a momentary button to run the relay when I need it. This engine is very strong and will start with no glow time about 50% of the time in moderate temps.

Also might want to ohm out the GPs while your in there.

[Bigshankhank]

Given that this is my daughters vehicle, I am trying to make its operation as simple as possible. Teaching her about how glow plugs work has been enough of an effort, teaching her now that she needs to learn to use a new starting technique (momentary switch) is just going to confuse/frustrate her. So as with the OEM lift pump, I am going back to as much of the original design as possible and upgrading only those things where the operational impact is minimal.

[Bigshankhank]

I do appreciate the suggestion, but there will come a time where she will need to manage this thing herself, and I don't want to spend my days explaining to her over the phone from wherever she is broken down how we kajiggerred her TPS so she needs to explain it to the tow truck that picks her up. I've got that kind of confidence in my knowledge, but if I'm not around she needs the machine to be as close to the original textbook as possible. I am trying to teach her about mechanics, but she really has no interest and just needs this thing to work.

[Dvldog8793]

There were two different glow plug controllers. if you look in the books or do a search you will find the change over year. the newer style is the one to go with. I think the year was 1986 that the newer style started.
I agree 100% in the KISS theory....

[Bigshankhank]

Well I am trying to get a hold of Kennedy Diesel to get some info on the controller upgrade kit they sell. Hopefully I can release an order today or tomorrow, I really want to get this thing running again.

[Bigshankhank]

Whelp, Kennedy has a new controller upgrade kit heading my way. Looking forward to breaking out the soldering gun and making this baby rattle again. At least, assuming the lift pump is working. And my fuel tank isn't completely contaminated. And my injector pump isn't shot. Baby steps...

[Dvldog8793]

I would make sure that you have a clean known fuel source.

[Bigshankhank]

I would make sure that you have a clean known fuel source.

Yeah, I've got a spare boat tank and as much as I don't want to risk air getting in to the system and have to bleed the injectors again, I guess I need to remove the rubber feed line from the lift pump and drop it in to that tank filled with some new diesel.
Take it from me, while in a truck or suburban there might be easy access to the injectors and glow plugs, in the van that doghouse tunnel makes air bleeding a royal PITA.

[Bigshankhank]

So I am installing the upgraded glow plug controller from Kennedy and came across a wiring anomaly. The switched power wire to pin #3 on the original controller is a very pale blue, to the point that I mistook it for light green. Anyway, that wire goes to the old relay (which I am removing) into a two prong plug, the other wire in that plug is pink. With the OEM relay removed, I checked that pink wire and it has battery voltage when the key is in the run position. The blue wire is dead. According to the instructions I received from John Kennedy, I need to tap in to that blue wire on pin #3 to a given terminal on the new relay/controller, but if I am not mistaken that will do nothing. I should connect that pink wire, is that right? This sounds obvious in my head, but I want to double check.

Also, I keep putting off removing the rubber line to the lift pump and running a new line to a spare fuel tank with new fresh diesel, mainly because I don't want to bleed air from the injectors again. But from reading, will I actually have to bleed air that way? I thought you only had to bleed the injectors if you got air between the lift and injection pumps (like when you replace the secondary fuel filter)? Its not the end of the world to bleed them, but it is a royal PITA in a van.

Thanks for your responses.

[Bigshankhank]

Looks like I figured it out, using the wiring diagram for both controllers. The cycle time is really short, and I guess I am still chasing a fuel issue from this point because it still won't start.