I have a 1982 GMC K3500 6.2 and I need to know how to replace the valve cover gaskets.
I have a 1982 GMC K3500 6.2 and I need to know how to replace the valve cover gaskets.
The 6.2/6.5 do not use gaskets.
The covers are sealed with a high temp silicone sealer (Gooooo in a tube)
Procedure
Remove the intake manifold (Unhook wires, throttle cables etc)
*** NOTE***
Coolant crossover stays in place and there will be no leaks when removing manifold
Carefully clean the intake port area of old gasket and protect against dropping junk in the ports.
Cover ports with Duct tape while working on the area.
Mark each injector line PAIR with tape 1-3 ... 5-7 2-4... 6-8
Label them
Make a carewful map of where they connect to the IP and in what order.
Remove the small sheet metal screws holding the line clamps to the Valve covers.
Remove the nuts the hold the line clamps at the manifold bolts (Usually when you remove the intake.
Loosen the injector lines from the injectors (Cover the injector fitting to keep out junk)
Loosen the line fittings at the IP *** A 3/8 drive crow foot works well for removing the injector lines at the IP ***
Cover the Fittings of the IP with a clean shop towel
***Before removing lines use a shop vac a clean the valley area of debris ***
With the lines off you can carefully unbolt and remove the Valve covers.
Use a thin sharp putty knife to slide in between the head and cover to help cut the silicone goop.
DO NOT GET ROUGH WITH THE COVERS AS THEY ARE THIN AND CAN BE TWEAKED EASILY
Clean all the goop off the cover sealer area and then lay the cover on a flat steel surface and tap down any spots where the bolt area has been distorted.
The covers need to be very very clean in the area where the goop goes.
Clean off the head area where the cover fits.
Once cleaned of old goop, wipe the area well with a rag soaked in BRAKEKLEEN to remove all oil traces
THESE AREAS MUST BE CLEAN, OIL FREE AND DRY.
Apply high temp black silicone goop to the seal area of the cover (1/4 inch thick and be sure to cover the entire area that contacts the head flange.
Carefully sit the cover on he head and install the bolts.
Lightly snug the bolt (LIGHTLY)
Let the goop cure over night and then snug the bolts on to full torque.
(Snug with a short wrench)
Do not over tighten
Reattach the lines and the parts you removed.
First start is a bit tough.
Remove glow plugs and spin engine until fuel mist appears.
Replace plugs and start normally
*** This maneuver makes getting the air purged from the injector lines far easier on the starter, batteries and your patience ***
DO NOT BE TEMPTED BY THE DARK SIDE
Do not bend the injector lines to make the job quicker
Do not use gaskets,... they will leak
Good luck
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Howdy
IMHO....the best "goop" on the market BY FAR, is a product called "The Right Stuff", it works great! just follow the directions as it is different than standard "goop"
Good Luck!
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Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!
X2
Right stuff is great.
Little more $$$ but great stuff.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
I am at the final on this and need to know what the torque specification and tightening sequence is.
Anyone know the answer to the question above? I will be doing this over the long weekend and this last bit of info would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
Andy
1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.
Well if you are using "the right stuff" snug would be the answer.. you want it to cure well and not squeeze it out..
1993 Chevy K3500
owner - Twisted Steel Performance
porting, ceramic & powder coating
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What I have done in the past with great results..
Clean all surfaces really good (no oil allowed)
Make sure the VC flange is flat and straight (no bumps around bolt holes)
Squirt a good bead of HIGH TEMP SILICONE into the VC flange.
Place VC on head and install all the bolts and then barely snug them up (Just so the silicone mushes a bit)
Let the silicone set up over night and then SNUG THE BOLTS WITH A SHORT WRENCH (1/4 DRIVE RATCHET)
You will get the best and most secure (leak free) job
If you are worried about the bolts loosening up....use a touch of BLUE LOCTITE on the threads after the goop has set up (Remove the bolts one at a time and add the LT )
Too tight and the VC warps.
Gaskets are a guaranteed leak
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Thanks guys. This is really helpful stuff. Hope to get this done today.
Andy
1988 K10 Suburban. 6.5L NA Goodwrench Engine: 506 block cast on August 12, 1996. Heavy Duty built 700R4. Full-floating 14 bolt rear axle. 3/4ton 10 bolt front. Brand new 305/75R16 Procomp AT Sport tires on brand new 16x8 steel wheels.