Just died and won't start

[DmaxMaverick]

O.K., will look at those options. Just sent a text to my neighbor who is a 25 year Nissan mechanic whom has a real scanner.

Just a thought. I converted my headlights to HID back in November. In February I had a 1900 mile trip in one week. On the way home I hit the high beams and my programmer reset itself (powered off then back on). Could this have been a warning?

I live in the sticks also. Thank God I have yet to have one burn to the ground.

That could certainly have some contribution to a problem. Still, a scanner will help get you looking in the right direction. If the Edge module reset, there's something amiss with the electrical system, or the PCM or its harness. Could be a lost ground, somewhere.

[Cold water]

Roger that! Neighbor is working today and said he could come by in the morning.

[Cold water]

O.K., so the neighbor came by with the scanner he uses at his house not the one he uses at work. Bigger and nicer looking than the one I have, but almost as useless.

He said I should open up the fuse panel under the hood on the drivers side and check for corrosion since the local free loading mice decided to use it as a restroom and dining hall. I pulled every fuse and checked them. I then pulled it apart from the underside looking for corrosion. Some of those connector were a bugger getting undone. The underside looked almost as good as the day it was installed. I also checked the wiring harness' for any wear. None was found.

Before he came over I pulled the HID headlights out and disconnected them, no change. I also pulled the fuse for the auxiliary LED back lights I installed back in November and still no change.

I replaced the ignition switch about a month ago for the "Range Shift Inhibited" message. Is it possible that I did not do this correctly or that it went bad already?

[DmaxMaverick]

Once you have rodent evidence, all bets are off. They go where you won't/can't see. The only option is to keep looking. Good luck with that!

"Shift Range Inhibited" is almost always the NSBU switch (located on the tranny where the shift cable connects), or the connector. If your new ign. switch fixed that, it would be in the more rare category (not that ign. switches don't fail on occasion). Even if that were in play, right now, it won't cause the problem you having, right now.

If damage was done by a modified electrical system (if that happened), disconnecting them won't likely "fix" anything. Damage done is damage done, and won't change unless and until repaired. Stray voltage and errant grounds have caused more headaches than just about anything, especially with these late model mobile super computers.

Were you able to identify any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes, or 'codes', for short)? It's an essential piece of your puzzle, at this point. Still, you really need a capable scanner to know what's going on that you can't see. At the very least, set yourself up with an ELM327 adapter (cheap) and pair it with a smart phone or tablet (download the Torque Pro app, also cheap). It will allow you to see the most essential codes and values you need right now. Also, if you have a friend with a Predator programmer (2003+), it will show you much the same (it doesn't have to be married to a vehicle to see passive values, only for uploading tunes).

[Cold water]

UPDATE!!!
My apologies for not getting back sooner. Life, work, etc., etc.
O.K., So I scheduled an appointment with the local Chevy dealer on recommendations for a couple of shops in the area. Apparently we do not have a "true diesel" shop in the area anymore. The truck was picked up via flatbed on Thursday night and taken to the dealership. I called them Friday morning to let them know everything I had already done. That evening I received a call from the service writer telling me that all of the electronics are in good working order and my problem seems to be the fuel pressure regulator. It is either bad or clogged. They are not 100% sure if this in the only problem since they have yet to get the truck to fire up. They do know that the fuel is getting to the engine but then it returns to the tank. I will know more on Tuesday when they get the part in. I am hoping that is the problem since the estimate is just under $1100.00.

I truly have enjoyed this truck since buying it in Oct. of '09. Using it for everything from hauling a 1995 Weekender by Skyline (really large truck camper), firewood, towing a couple of vehicles and the occasional dump trailer (neighbor used to have one) to get mulch for the wife and neighbor. But, this past year has been expensive. Brake hard lines (THANK YOU GM you almost killed me and possibly someone else) fuel lines, radiator and upper and lower hoses. Let us not forget about the injectors five years ago. Yes, I know the truck is 15 years old.

Anyway, sorry for the mini rant. I will keep you up to speed as soon as I can.

[Cold water]

Hey everyone,
Well my day just got dumped on. On Friday they told me that they thought it was the fuel regulator($1100.00). So they replaced that today(it had to be ordered). Today they are telling me that the fuel injector pump(CP3) has something wrong with it. The truck will idle but as soon as you put a load on it it dies. So now we are at an additional $3000.00. Since this is not in my budget I told them to push the truck outside and I will have it towed off of their lot.
NOT what I needed to hear!!!

[DmaxMaverick]

It sounds like they aren't performing proper diagnosis, but throwing parts at it (all too common these days). Possibly stringing you along to run up the bill (less common, but still happens). $1100 for the FPR seems quite steep, including diagnostics. I suggest getting another local dealer involved, preferably one claiming extensive Duramax experience. A local Diesel jobber may do you better. Ask around.