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Thread: So, you think the fuel filter's hard changing on a Silverado?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Morrisville, VT, USA
    Posts
    2,401

    Default So, you think the fuel filter's hard changing on a Silverado?

    Couple of weeks ago, I decided to change the filter on the Kodiak (Seneca). The old one didn't even have a proper coat of oil and dust on it and was obviously not original, even though there's only 20K on the odometer. Same filter that was on it (WIX plastic) when I bought the unit two years ago, this coming early Dec., with just 9K on it.

    Got a new Baldwin out and, having noticed that the filter is over in front of the driver, and looking like it would be a lead-pipe-cinch, in comparison to what I was used to on my Sierra, I was actually looking forward to the job. WRONG!
    Took the two clips off the DS plastic mud-guard and there she sat, looking easy, right in front of my eyes. Got in behind the bumper and leaned in and started in on the water sensor line. Could hardly find it! Behind, and inside the filter, under the firewall, and directly underneath another big wire harness, and the connector only had less than 2" of wire behind it. Couldn't get near the clip that locks the connector.

    Knowing that the filter has quick-gain threads, I took a chance and decided to unscrew it, hoping the wires wouldn't bind, or break. Couldn't get two hands on it, so I went for a strap wrench. No go! A 3/16 thick strap won't clear the LH head. Went and got out a steel strap filter wrench, and, since the plastic WIX is tapered, I got the filter off. Wires were OK.

    Wanting never to deal with that snap connector, again, I got some wires,some shrink tubing and soldering gun. I lengthened that sucker about two feet and robbed another 2 wire connector off an old Yukon. Put the new- old connector about half-way of the new extension, and hung the wire from the firewall. Next filter change gonna be a whole lot easier.

    Home free? Not nearly. Filled the new filter, per instructions and spilled 2 thirds of it before I gave up and decided I couldn't start that thing back on, without moving the transmission filler/stick tube. Two bolts and one wire clip and you can, indeed, swing that thing out of the way. Still need to pull the dip-stick out, to give you more room for your hands. Still, thought I'd never get that thing started on the threads. Went back over everything, to make sure I'd removed the old rubber seal from the stub pipe, up in the filter head. It wasn't up there. Just took maximum grip and determination to get the thing started. Couldn't turn it up tight by hand though. So, I went back to the steel strap. The Baldwin is bigger and non-tapered, and the wrench interfered with that big ole wire harness between the head and filter! Two more tries with different steel straps, before I was able to get one on the reduced bottom of the steel filter. Then ------ the bottom of the steel strap had gone a little higher (tilted) than the side near me, and was hooked above the flange (I think) of the head.??? Close to another half-hour of working with the tip of a small, long screwdriver, until, finally, the stupid loop literally fell off!

    I don't necessarily think that the next time will compare with this one, but if it does, I'm gonna trade MH's.
    2008 Jaco Seneca 35' motor home (Kodiak 5500 chassis). Pulling 18' Wells Cargo enclosed trailer, with 2016 Miata in it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,466

    Arrow

    Quite the ordeal!

    GM put the fuel filter on the engine to help it resist gelling fuel in cold temperatures (or possibly increase dealer visits). If you live in a warmer climate, I'd think about a remote mount.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Morrisville, VT, USA
    Posts
    2,401

    Default

    Uh, Jim. I just now noticed that I missed the medium duty forum by one notch. I decide to put something on a little-used forum, and mistakenly put it on an even less-used forum by mistake. Oh well, can you move it over there for me?
    2008 Jaco Seneca 35' motor home (Kodiak 5500 chassis). Pulling 18' Wells Cargo enclosed trailer, with 2016 Miata in it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Greenfield, In
    Posts
    1,408

    Default

    Know where near as hard to change as the pickups. I've changed mine about 10 times now and it only takes about 10 or 15 mins. I never fill mine before putting it on. I use the lift pump to prime it. I also unclip the wif sensor and and wait till I get the filter on the bench to swap it over to the new element.

    Greg
    Diesel Page Supporter
    Greg Landuyt
    Lubrication Specialist, LLC.
    1-888-306 4255
    greg@lubricationspecialist.com
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Morrisville, VT, USA
    Posts
    2,401

    Default

    I always found the filter change on the Sierra to be a cinch, in comparison to the Kodiak. Mostly, because I removed a big piece of the passenger-side fender liner and made a stiff plastic cover for the hole, held on with SS sheet metal screws. A quick zip with an 18V driver, opened, or closed it, and I just reached in, over the tire and easily accessed everything. In the Sierra, there was no huge, stiff, unmovable wiring harness, rubbing the body of the filter canister.
    Anyhow, the new after-market lift--pump & filter (Air Dog) has freed me up, 500%. I think I've ducked a bullet, in that I have towed 2400+ miles without issues, with an 80 gallon fuel tank, that had the potential to have residual algae in it. The AD filter is 2 micron, and I expected to have to change it, going across to Texas. Didn't happen, and I'm thankful. The rig sits in B-ville, with a very full tank of fuel from a station that's just 200 yards away, and it has an oversize dose of algae killer and other fuel treatments in it.
    2008 Jaco Seneca 35' motor home (Kodiak 5500 chassis). Pulling 18' Wells Cargo enclosed trailer, with 2016 Miata in it.

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