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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Lower Alabama
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    4

    Default adding a fuel pressure gauge

    Looking for any suggestions y'all might have for a cost-effective aftermarket low pressure fuel gauge to monitor the output of the lift pump in a '95 K1500 Suburban with 230k on a 6.5 recently. Previous owner had replaced pretty much the entire fuel system from tank to IP (not sure about injectors themselves) but it wouldn't run. My son looked at it for me (was closer to him than me) and diagnosed two problems: (1) no power to the new lift pump and (2) a nick in the PMD relocation cable. I replaced the PMD cable and drove it home with a jury-rig hotwire powering the lift pump (used a 16ga extention cord straight to the battery). Still have to troubleshoot the open circuit (suspecting bad ground) but want gauge for piece of mind anyway.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    3,084

    Default

    At the very least, go with a liquid-filled gauge. The pulsating nature of the lift pump destroys a standard gauge pretty quick. I have two Mr. Gasket liquid-filled gauges on my '95 (one before the fuel filter and one after). Neither one goes back to zero anymore, but at least I can tell I have pressure! I'd suggest a good quality brand, such as Isspro or Autometer.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    West Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    209

    Default

    I have a vacuum/pressure gauge connected to the water drain hose from the filter. If I suspect a pump problem all I have to do is lift the hood and check the gauge while the engine is running. I leave it connected and set off to the side. If I suspect water in the fuel I disconnect the hose from the gauge and drain any water this way. Have had this connect this way for more than 5 years with out any problems.
    1995 Chev 4X4 1500 Suburban 6.5 TD,Phazer Gear Kit from JK, High Capacity Water Pump Kit from JK. Special Calibration fan clutch W/8 blade fan from JK
    1995 Chev 4X4 2500 Suburban 6.5 TD>>SOL-D (parts car)
    1999 Chev 4X4 2500 Suburban 454 "Gas Hog" with Hiniker C-Plow

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Lower Alabama
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    4

    Default thanks for the timely responses, guys...

    ...good points both. arveetek, did you run your gauges inside the passenger compartment (realizing that is a safety no no, but it is diesel, not gas) also, do you think an electric gauge would hold up better and, if so, any thoughts/experience with specific brands?

    N9Phil, the water drain was my thought, too, as an easy access point. So you just leave the gauge hooked up with the valve closed and only consult it when you suspect a fuel problem?

    While we're on the subject of fuel supply, what are your thoughts regarding the oil pressure sensor safety switch being in the circuit. Bearing in mind that we're dealing with diesel, seems like just one more unnecessarily complicated potential failure point mandated by overzealous safety Nazis. Have y'all made any improvements in that setup?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    West Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    209

    Default

    I only have the gauge hooked up, if I need to check for water etc I just disconnect the hose from the gauge. Kennedy Diesel has a set up to solve the problem. https://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=402
    1995 Chev 4X4 1500 Suburban 6.5 TD,Phazer Gear Kit from JK, High Capacity Water Pump Kit from JK. Special Calibration fan clutch W/8 blade fan from JK
    1995 Chev 4X4 2500 Suburban 6.5 TD>>SOL-D (parts car)
    1999 Chev 4X4 2500 Suburban 454 "Gas Hog" with Hiniker C-Plow

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
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    13,576

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by 95DieselBurb View Post
    ......While we're on the subject of fuel supply, what are your thoughts regarding the oil pressure sensor safety switch being in the circuit. Bearing in mind that we're dealing with diesel, seems like just one more unnecessarily complicated potential failure point mandated by overzealous safety Nazis. Have y'all made any improvements in that setup?
    Not recommended, and not legal. With a very rare exception of an emergency or diagnostic purpose, the fuel lift pump, of any motor fuel, must be controlled, and should never be forced to run when the engine is not running or during a start cycle. While it is fair to say the Diesel fuel is generally less volatile than gasoline, it is not necessarily less unsafe, more safe, or less combustible than gasoline, at the time the necessity of the fuel lift pump control is realized. A vehicle fire doesn't care what fuels it, and at the temperatures involved, before any motor fuel is introduced (what's in the tank isn't the only fuel present, and is less often the first to combust), the volatility differences are minimal contributors to the extremes of a vehicle fire. All vehicle fires progress the same, and conclude the same, with the only difference being the rate of progression and when they are extinguished. A fuel lift pump only moves fuel from one place to another. The longer that fuel remains at a greater distance from the primary heat source, the greater is the survivability of all parties involved. I really can't put it more delicately than that. Please understand the reasons, and take responsibility. Vehicle accidents are called accidents for a reason. You don't get to choose the time and conditions. The best we can do is minimize factors under our conscious control that contribute to the progression of an horrific incident.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  7. #7
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 95DieselBurb View Post
    ...good points both. arveetek, did you run your gauges inside the passenger compartment (realizing that is a safety no no, but it is diesel, not gas) also, do you think an electric gauge would hold up better and, if so, any thoughts/experience with specific brands?

    While we're on the subject of fuel supply, what are your thoughts regarding the oil pressure sensor safety switch being in the circuit. Bearing in mind that we're dealing with diesel, seems like just one more unnecessarily complicated potential failure point mandated by overzealous safety Nazis. Have y'all made any improvements in that setup?


    I'm using an aftermarket Racor fuel filter setup, and plumbed the gauges directly into the inlet and outlet of the filter housing. I have to open the hood to look at the gauges:






    I don't have any experience with the electric gauges, so I can't comment on that.

    I use Kennedy's OPS harness. It's over 13 years old and is still working great!

    http://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=402

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Lower Alabama
    Posts
    4

    Default Thanks again, all...

    ...(and duely noted and chastised, Dmax Maverick)

    Arveetek, I like your dual guage setup on the Racor. Do you happen to have the Racor model number for the housing and how involved was it plumbing it in?

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