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Thread: 6.2 TTY or Arp Studs?

  1. #1
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    Default 6.2 TTY or Arp Studs?

    I have an 84 6.2 I am putting on a Sidewinder 6.2 banks turbo kit. Is it safe to use the TTY bolts for the banks turbo? Or should I try the Arp studs again that leaked threw the threads?

    What head gasket should I use? 6.2 or 6.5?

    Note:I spent many hours cleaning the head bolt holes. The Arp thread sealer failed on me. If the TTY bolts will handle the boost from the banks turbo, I would rather use the tty bolts then take a chance with these Arp studs again... Can ya feel my butthurt?

















  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Default

    Hi

    FWIW I would yank the studs....clean the holes well to remove all the old goop..

    Use the standard Felpro gaskets and the TTY bolts

    Install the TTY bolts DRY as they come from the package into clean holes...

    Run the proper sized tap through the holes to clear the threads of any crud...wash with brakleen to degrease and clear the threads...

    Good luck
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Hi

    FWIW I would yank the studs....clean the holes well to remove all the old goop..

    Use the standard Felpro gaskets and the TTY bolts

    Install the TTY bolts DRY as they come from the package into clean holes...

    Run the proper sized tap through the holes to clear the threads of any crud...wash with brakleen to degrease and clear the threads...

    Good luck
    Ok Robyn. I trust your awesomeness! For future reference, at what boost levels should the Arp studs be used?

    Would the 6.5 or 6.2 TTY bolts be better for the banks turbo kit?

  4. #4
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    Default DB/DS Fuel Rate Discussion

    For future reference, at what boost levels should the Arp studs be used?
    There is no useful upper boost level for a 6.2/6.5 where studs become a better alternative than new TTY bolts - assuming you install the heads correctly using the gaskets, sealants and procedures recommended by The Diesel Page.

    We know that the Stanadyne DB/DS series of rotary fuel injection pumps are limited in fuel delivery due to the volumetric design of the internal pumping plungers. There are finite limits to the amount of fuel the DB2 fuel injection pump can deliver.

    As a way of explaining why this is important, we know that the first gen LB7 Duramax, with its high-pressure common rail fuel injection system, was factory rated at 300 HP/3100 RPM with the 91.7 mm2 (per 1000 strokes) fuel delivery and 18-psi boost pressure. Here's a photo of the emissions ID plate from the LB7 Duramax that is installed in my Lil Red truck. In it, you can see the fuel rate and other data points.



    Even the highest fuel-rate marine 6.2/6.5 DB2 isn't able to deliver that amount of fuel at higher engine rpms where maximum horsepower is typically produced (HP = (Torque × RPM)/5252). In fact, most DB mechanical and DS electronic fuel injection pumps have a fuel rate curve that peaks in the low 2000s (somewhere in the 70 mm2 range), meaning that as engine speed increases beyond that point, fuel delivery decreases. So... 15-psi boost pressure is about all that is necessary for even a performance 6.5L TurboDiesel. I used TTY head bolts on just such an engine for nearly 300,000 miles. https://www.thedieselpage.com/finale.htm

    Now... if you're planning to add propane (a fuel) and nitrous, then perhaps studs might become relevant at some point. I once witnessed a dyno run at a diesel event I covered where a 6.5 was using maxed-out DS electronic programming, along with propane, nitrous and water/methanol injection. I stood way-way back... Not sure what the owner was trying to prove with that one.

    And, John Kennedy used his own programming and other mods in an LB7 Duramax (and its original TTY head bolts) to produce in excess of 700 horsepower.
    Last edited by More Power; 11-02-2020 at 17:36. Reason: Add to

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