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Thread: 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build

  1. #161
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    I swapped out the 6.2 oil filler to the 6.5 oil filler because I am going to a 6.5 CDR set up for the snorkel.



    For just the rest runs, I installed a 0-60 oil pressure gauge.



    I am now experimenting with getting a smaller diameter tensioner pulley so it does not hit the larger water pump pulley. Note OEM 6.5 tensioner pulley is 3” diameter.





    I ordered a new 6.5 CDR passenger side valve cover. I do not want to take too many parts off of my running spare 6.5 because I will be doing an 18:1 build in the future if the block and heads are good on it.

  2. #162
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    Feb 2012
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    By any chance do you live in Wolf Point Mt ?
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

    like us on Facebook

  3. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    By any chance do you live in Wolf Point Mt ?
    No. Bozo area. Is wolf point where you are from?

  4. #164
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    Pauline, SC
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    No, just sold a set of 18:1 pistons to someone who lived their...
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

    like us on Facebook

  5. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    No, just sold a set of 18:1 pistons to someone who lived their...
    Yea that was not me. So the rumor is the 6.2 pistons are thicker then the 6.5 pistons and would be a better option to do the 18:1. Do you sell sets of 6.2 18:1 pistons?

  6. #166
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    Feb 2012
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    No but if you want them machined and or coated I can do that.....

    piston 2.jpg002 (7).jpg
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

    like us on Facebook

  7. #167
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    Montana
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    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    No but if you want them machined and or coated I can do that.....

    piston 2.jpg002 (7).jpg
    Ok. I have 2 more motors to build up after this one. I’ll give ya a call when it’s 18:1 time for sure!

  8. #168
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    Jul 2020
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    Montana
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    Got off work today and spent 10 minutes taking off the driver side exhaust with the sawzall. It’s painful to see myself tossing it. After all it is 3” stainless with flow master.



    I got started on removing the Oem motor crossmember and just as I was on the last rivet, wife came out and said it’s dinner time and I had to go run some errands for her. Now it’s dark and cold. Maybe tomorrow I’ll get to install the ORD motor crossover. :-D

  9. #169
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    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    Helluva sweet job on the 6.2.....I Enjoy the photography

    The old 6.2 used to have an oil baffle inside that stopped the fill tube from leaking around the rubber grommet.

    GM decided that the baffle cost too much and a bit of oil puking was OK
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2007 Chevy Avalanche
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Helluva sweet job on the 6.2.....I Enjoy the photography

    The old 6.2 used to have an oil baffle inside that stopped the fill tube from leaking around the rubber grommet.

    GM decided that the baffle cost too much and a bit of oil puking was OK
    Thank you! I did not know about the internal baffle. Them cheapo’s! Lol

  11. #171
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    I tried a series of different tensioner pulleys and could not find a good fit smaller pulley. So I decided to modify my own. I picked up this free pulley from a friend. It came off of a Subaru tensioner pulley. I used my die grinder and took off 2mm and then took off 1mm from the 6.5 aluminum tensioner cast. It fits great and no more chance of rubbing on the water pump pulley.
















  12. #172
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    I hooked up the radiator and did the 2nd coolant pressure test. Still leaking from the thermostat housing. Looks like I will need to get a new one or double up on the gasket. Kinda strange that the thermostat housing gauge reads 15 psi and the rear coolant plate gauge reads 11 psi. I am guessing the rear gauge is not calibrated correctly.







    I also installed the new 6.5 valve cover and installed the CDR. I used the optimum black Rtv to seal the rubber boot.





    What is it with these made in China valve covers always in the way of the intake manifold? I’ll have to grind the edges off again...




  13. #173
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    Apr 2001
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    I hooked up the radiator and did the 2nd coolant pressure test. Still leaking from the thermostat housing. Looks like I will need to get a new one or double up on the gasket. Kinda strange that the thermostat housing gauge reads 15 psi and the rear coolant plate gauge reads 11 psi. I am guessing the rear gauge is not calibrated correctly....
    I've heard it said, "A man with one clock always knows the time. A man with two is never sure." (obviously from a time before synchronous digital clocks)

    Are you sure the rear gage isn't calibrated correctly? How do you know either of them are calibrated?

    Also, coolant will not leak like air, or perhaps not at all, and it may never actually see 15 PSI. If it remains a problem, it can be tackled later, with the engine installed and filled with coolant. I'd suggest doing the test then.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  14. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    I've heard it said, "A man with one clock always knows the time. A man with two is never sure." (obviously from a time before synchronous digital clocks)

    Are you sure the rear gage isn't calibrated correctly? How do you know either of them are calibrated?

    Also, coolant will not leak like air, or perhaps not at all, and it may never actually see 15 PSI. If it remains a problem, it can be tackled later, with the engine installed and filled with coolant. I'd suggest doing the test then.
    The pressure tester pump has a gauge on it and is showing the same psi as the thermostat housing gauge.

    I would love to throw it in and do all the tests but one thing after another. It’s best to get all the bugs out before I put it in. Like today’s test, the new 6.5 valve cover started to leak oil and the injection pump is misfiring the motor and the turbo oil drain is leaking. Fixing those new issues would be a pita if the motor was in the bay.

  15. #175
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    I randomly went to a guys house that owns a stock M1009 and looked at the motor bay. I am not happily convinced the 6.5 valve cover and Cdr location will suit my needs. I will replace the 6.2 valve cover and oil fill tube and use a civilian Cdr bracket.

    The motor misfires a little. I will turn down the fuel 1/4 turn to see if it changes anything.

    Kinda not liking the serpentine system because of too much belt vibration since there is no vacuum pump pulley to correct that.

    Also I am seeing the coolant boiling in the block before the 195 degree thermostat opens up. I think I will try a 130 or 180 degree thermostat to see if that fixes that problem. Just as the 6.5 diesel pages recommended not to use a single thermostat with a 130gpm pump. A much lower thermostat is needed or none at all to correct this problem or the dual thermostat with 180 degree therms.

    In addition, the top radiator hose collapses from too much vacuum from the 130gpm pump. The coolant reserve tank is needed to prevent this during the testing.

  16. #176
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    Crucial info MUST READ!

    About 9 years ago I remember reading about a guy in West Jordan Utah buying up the last of the 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo rebuild kits. I think I might have met him on one of my Moab trips. Anyhow, I found his posting on EBay. I bought his second to last one just in case I need it. I figure $68 is justified since Banks no longer makes this turbo. He has only 1 left... I do not know if anyone else has a rebuild kit for this turbo.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Banks-Sidew...gAAOSwXMheQdgY

    Also a little secret, with the Ip turned up 1/4 and with 40hp injector nozzle tips, this turbo can get up to 13 psi non wastegate comparable to a 6.5 GM5 turbo.

  17. #177
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    Things have been busy at the house and work the last few days. I finally got the ORD engine crossmember brace on. It was a PITA to install because my frame was not 100% straight so the bolt holes did not line up that great. I had to bend the frame to get it to line up. Not much, just a few MM. Other then having to grind off 2 of rivets, it in general is not a bad install if the frame was straight. I do not know why I paint undercarriage parts, they get banged up and rusty in a year or 2...





    I checked the ORD Power Steering support brace and saw the end bolt was loose. Probably from all those crazy trails I’ve been on over the years. I do think ORD should fab it with 2 bolts on this end instead of one. Trail vibrations tend to get things loose.







    I also checked the ORD Power Steering Weld on Repair plate. All the welds look great and the plate is doing its job. I had this installed the same time I upgraded my whole power steering system because of the starting of cracking on the frame. The cracking has not gotten longer since the repair plate was installed.





    My phone died and I borrowed the Wifes phone on some of these pictures. Sorry for the Live Photo’s.

  18. #178
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    Yesterday afternoon I lifted each side of the Blazer with the Hi lift Jack so I could finish drilling the last two bolt holes for the Motor Crossmember because my drill is too long to get a straight hole. I made darn sure I kept my body away from anything that would kill me if the Jack fell out from under the blazer.









    Afterward, I got the lower ORD motor mounts installed. I left the bolts and nuts loose to make the motor install easier.





    I keep seeing air quickly come in from the return line. I added a one way check valve for the testing.




  19. #179
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    On the motor stand with the 130 gpm water pump, 195 single thermostat temperature testing with the shops laser thermometer gun shows that the motor definitely gets at least 30 degrees hotter before the thermostat housing which tells me a lower thermostat is a must have!

    The hottest parts on the motor is indeed the heads. Front and rear temps only show a few degrees difference. The rear of the heads are about 2-3 degrees cooler then the front.

    Driver side head...





    Back of the heads...





    Passenger side head...





    Driver valve cover... Note the valve cover is cooler on the rear of the motor by 4 degrees.





    Edit: I find it interesting that the driver side head is about 10 degrees hotter then the passenger side. That explains why just the driver side precups cracked but the passenger side precups did not. It also explains why one of the 6.5 driver side head was cracked between the valves and the passenger side head was not. When I flushed the coolant from the motor, I could not flush the driver side unless I popped one of the freeze plugs when the coolant crossover housing was off. The coolant flow design on the driver side is a mistake GM made. I think the paradox by design kit just for the driver side would be beneficial to balance the driver vs passenger side head temperatures.

    One has to also take into consideration that the back of this motor is not pressed tight against the firewall which gets less ventilation from the fan. More temperature testing is needed after the motor is installed in the engine bay.
    Last edited by 2INSANE; 12-04-2020 at 07:06 AM.

  20. #180
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    So everything was going great! All of a sudden she started blowing large amounts of white smoke. Smells like unburnt fuel.

    Ordered a rebuilt injection pump 4544 from Pensacola Diesel, Inc and ordered injector pop pressure tester and valve compression tool.

    This build is on hold. Starting fresh with another block. This time no serpentine and no upgraded water pump.

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