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Thread: 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build

  1. #1
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    Default 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build

    Hello!

    The goal of this build is for me to address issues with my J Code Surplus 6.2L diesel that I did a refresher (With Upgrades) last summer and to add a Banks Turbo Sidewinder kit on it!

    Recently pulled from my M1009 that can be found here:

    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/thread...-guide.198509/

    With the 6.2 on the motor stand...

    Last edited by 2INSANE; 10-03-2020 at 17:26.

  2. #2
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    I removed...

    The Cdr valve
    Vacuum hose
    Intake manifold
    Oil fill tube
    Injection pump

    It only took me 15 minutes...










  3. #3
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    Off with the Alternators!





    And the coolant crossover!





    Bye bye fuel lines!


  4. #4
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    There goes another 15 mins...



    Bench space looking good!



    Tools screaming Harbor Freight, O’REILLYs and Autozone!


  5. #5
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    IDK why some guys complain when it’s sooo easy a 12 year old can do this!


  6. #6
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    Pass side Exhaust Manifold off...



    Driver side Exhaust Manifold off...




  7. #7
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    Fuel pump and fuel plate off...





    Injectors off...






  8. #8
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    Ordered new lifters because we have some lifter failure, new head gaskets and TTY bolts because the ARP stud Thread Sealer failed and apon further inspection, the Arp studs crept loose. To my calculations they crept out to 50 foot pounds of torque...

    Waiting on parts to continue.

  9. #9
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    So ARPs instructions say to use only their thread sealer on the ends of the studs and their “Special” Molly lube on the washers, nuts and threads of the top side of the stud and torque to 90 pounds.

    I think I will give the Arp studs another shot! But this time I am going to use Heaths method.

    “ Before installing Fel-Pro head gaskets on the locating dowels, Heath coated them with Permatex Copper Coat gasket sealer. After the heads were set on the block, each stud was installed after applying Permatex Ultra Grey to the coarse-thread end of the stud. The studs have to be sealed, as they screw into the water jackets. The threads were loaded to their major diameter with sealer-no more, no less.
    They were then run into the block and fully seated before being backed off an eighth of a turn. When all of the studs were installed, a little brush was used to coat the threads with ARP's special lube. Next, on went ARP washers, which are lubed on both surfaces. Then the nuts were run up and down by hand. This last step was intended to distribute the lube onto the threads of both the stud and the nut in order to assure the lowest friction when tightening them up. Next, and per the factory torque sequence, the ARP nuts were torqued to 25 ft-lb. The torque was increased in 10-pound increments till it was at 115 ft-lb. Then the engine was allowed to sit overnight, and each stud was retorqued again to 115 ft-lb.”

  10. #10
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    Also this time I am not going to add the Copper Spray a Gasket on the head gaskets. I believe it adds too much fluff or coosh making the studs loose over time.

    I might consider re torquing again after the motor warms up and cools off.

    I remember the last time I used the Copper Spray. I had to clean off a lot of excess material from the sides of the heads. Now imagine all that excessive material inside the block restricting coolant and oil flow...

    After I pull the heads I will share the pictures for sure to confirm my theory.
    Last edited by 2INSANE; 10-04-2020 at 10:49.

  11. #11
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    Looks like a great project.
    When you reassemble don't use as much silicon as the last person.All those ribbons of excess silicon can break free and plug vital things like the rad or oil pickup screen,ect.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    Looks like a great project.
    When you reassemble don't use as much silicon as the last person.All those ribbons of excess silicon can break free and plug vital things like the rad or oil pickup screen,ect.
    Thx for the advice

  13. #13
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    Tonight after work I got to play with my new angle die grinder and I cleaned up the Banks fuel pump plate with the turbo oil drain bung. Gave it 3 coats of rust resistant black paint. I also cleaned up the area for the fuel pump on the motor.








  14. #14
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    Before installing Fel-Pro head gaskets on the locating dowels, Heath coated them with Permatex Copper Coat gasket sealer.
    Doing that will ruin the gaskets.

    The Fel-Pro gaskets are manufactured with a factory-applied thermal-set coating, which is one of several features that make them superior to any other brand or type of head gaskets. These gaskets bond to the head and block decks over a few heat/cooling cycles. Smearing copper sealer over the top of the thermal-set adhesive ruins the engineering of the bond.

    In addition... the Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that self-compensates for thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax is produced using TTY head bolts.

    Our own 6.5TD Power Project engine was assembled using Fel-Pro head gaskets and Fel-Pro TTY head bolts using Fel-Pro's and our own recommended procedure. That engine delivered perfect service approaching nearly 300,000 miles before it was sold to an out-of-state buyer. During that 7 year period and all those miles, the head gaskets were never a problem.

    I guess maybe if I sold head studs I'd push them too.... no, no I wouldn't...
    Last edited by More Power; 10-07-2020 at 12:46.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    Doing that will ruin the gaskets.

    The Fel-Pro gaskets are manufactured with a factory-applied thermal-set coating, which is one of several features that make them superior to any other brand or type of head gaskets. These gaskets bond to the head and block decks over a few heat/cooling cycles. Smearing copper sealer over the top of the thermal-set adhesive ruins the engineering of the bond.

    In addition... the Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that self-compensates for thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax is produced using TTY head bolts.

    Our own 6.5TD Power Project engine was assembled using Fel-Pro head gaskets and Fel-Pro TTY head bolts using Fel-Pro's and our own recommended procedure. That engine delivered perfect service approaching nearly 300,000 miles before it was sold to an out-of-state buyer. During that 7 year period and all those miles, the head gaskets were never a problem.

    I guess maybe if I sold head studs I'd push them too.... no, no I wouldn't...
    I totally agree with you! I tried the copper spray once already but believe this product is not good for head gaskets. I mentioned that on post 10 of this thread. I’ll take a look at your build link you just posted. I love to read! I’ve read over 100 6.2/6.5 articles and builds already.

  16. #16
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    Today I decided to not use the rebuilt badger diesel injection pump for this build. I had to advance it about 1/2 inch to get the motor running right. I figure it was a crap rebuild.

    Apon further inspection, the badger diesel advance piston was sticking causing havoc on the fuel timing. In the pictures you can see the huge gap between the piston and the rocker arm adjustment screw.



    Unfortunately, Badger Diesels 1 year warranty is up so I decided to use the low mile J code injection pump that originally came with this surplus motor. Here is picture of the advance piston rod in its correct position not sticking.



    Since I have the Injection pump out I turned up the fuel screw from the side access plate 1/4 turn clockwise as required for the banks sidewinder turbo.


  17. #17
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    Using no gaskets, I installed the freshly refurbished Banks fuel pump plate with bung and the almost new mechanical fuel pump with push rod.





    I will only be doing one side of the motor at a time to reduce dust, bugs and whatever.

    Removed the passenger valve cover. The seal looked great with no leaks or blow outs.



    I removed the pressed rocker arms and push rods placing them on paper towels on my work bench in order of how I removed them. Marked the top of the paper towel as passenger rear for reference.



    Then I removed my labeled sensor and glow plugs placing them on the paper towel in order. Looks like the sensor was leaking oil threw the threads. Will have to use thread tape when I put it back on.


  18. #18
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    Next I unbolted the Arp head stud nuts and took out the washers placing them on my work bench. Every Arp stud rocked in place after removing the nuts and washers.



    I identified 5 coolant leaks coming from 5 Arp studs. 3 under valve cover and 2 on outside of valve cover. It is my right to say the Arp thread sealer sucks azz! I will use Optimum Black next time I install the studs.










  19. #19
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    Back when I installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo system on my 6.2L diesel (1982 GMC K1500), I reinstalled a mechanical fuel lift pump using the supplied parts and instructions - sorta like what you're doing. Once complete I decided then that I wouldn't do it again. Here's why...

    1- The lift pump and its related fuel lines are uncomfortably close to the exhaust crossover pipe that connects the driver's side exhaust manifold to the new Banks passenger side exhaust manifold. It's really tight... and you must install the heat shielding to reduce the potential for a fire...
    2- Once all of the parts had been installed I realized that replacing the lift pump would be a big problem in the future. To help mitigate that potential I installed a new OEM lift pump. But, that potential problem remained...

    I decided after the installation that I should have installed an electric fuel lift pump, that operated much like the 6.5 lift pump. Doing that would greatly simplify the turbo system installation, reduce the fire hazard, make it easier to maintain, and... I could use the electric fuel lift pump to prime a future replacement of the fuel filter.

    There... you've been informed!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    Back when I installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo system on my 6.2L diesel (1982 GMC K1500), I reinstalled a mechanical fuel lift pump using the supplied parts and instructions - sorta like what you're doing. Once complete I decided then that I wouldn't do it again. Here's why...

    1- The lift pump and its related fuel lines are uncomfortably close to the exhaust crossover pipe that connects the driver's side exhaust manifold to the new Banks passenger side exhaust manifold. It's really tight... and you must install the heat shielding to reduce the potential for a fire...
    2- Once all of the parts had been installed I realized that replacing the lift pump would be a big problem in the future. To help mitigate that potential I installed a new OEM lift pump. But, that potential problem remained...

    I decided after the installation that I should have installed an electric fuel lift pump, that operated much like the 6.5 lift pump. Doing that would greatly simplify the turbo system installation, reduce the fire hazard, make it easier to maintain, and... I could use the electric fuel lift pump to prime a future replacement of the fuel filter.

    There... you've been informed!
    Ok. Thanks for the advice!

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