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Thread: 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build

  1. #21
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    With the head still on, I removed the Arp studs. I did not have to double nut them because after I made them hand tight, I turned the 1/4 turn clockwise.

    Inspecting every stud, I can see the Arp thread sealer failure. It looks as if it chemically disintegrated from the coolant. Also was still gooey like straight from the tube. I then placed all the studs on my work bench for future cleaning and use. Some of the studs threads didn’t even have the sealer on them anymore.







    I don’t like pry heads off if I can. So I used a rubber mallet and gently hit the sides of the heads to help loosen them.




  2. #22
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    The rubber mallet method did not work this time to take the head off. I believe the copper spray acted like a glue. I could not even pry them off. I had to use a chisel and gently hammer it between the block and head to break the seal. She is off with no damage from the chisel. I put the head outside on my other toolbox.





    Cleaning up gaskets can be nasty work. I like to use proper Ppe when working with any harmful substances.



    I stuffed paper towels in the 3 cylinders and lifter compartment so gasket and angle grinder material getting in the motor is minimal.



    Using a razor blade and my shop vac, I carefully removed as much gasket I could get from the block.


  3. #23
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    Once all the gasket material was removed with the razor blade, I used paper towels and brake cleaner to remove oil and coolant from the block.



    Then using my shop vac and angle grinder, with a Scott’s pad on it, I super cleaned the block where the head gets bolted.



    I sucked up any material with the shop vac, took out the paper towels and wiped the area and cylinders with some oil to prevent rust while I wait for the new lifters to arrive. Don’t worry I’ll clean the oil off when it’s time to install the head gaskets.



    I then removed the lifters mounting plates, put the plates and bolts in order of how I removed them on my work bench. Removed each lifter with a magnet. Inspected each lifter roller and the cam where each lifter was. The rollers and cam looked almost new with minimal wear. Tossed the lifters in the garbage.










  4. #24
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    For the passenger head I used the same method to clean it as I did the block. Razor blade all gasket material off while using shop vac to get material. Cleaned with paper towel and brake cleaner. Used the angle grinder Scott’s medium grit pad as much as I could without jeopardizing losing Metal. I cleaned again with brake cleaner and paper towel. Used compressed air, brake clean and blew out all holes. Then cleaned the head surface again with paper towel and brake clean.





    Precups look great with no cracks.



    No cracks between valves... Yet...



    Checked to see if it was warped. Looked good to me.




  5. #25
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    To clean the head bolt holes I used a 12x1.75 tap that fits perfect! After each hole I cleaned the tap and hole with brake clean. Thank the Lord I have a full respirator that blocks all fumes, gas and vapors.

    I did 5 passes with the tap and cleaner with each hole.

    Each time I inspected the tap and looked for metal. None!

    Last time I used a thread chaser that did not seem to work very well and took many hours to get the holes clean.




  6. #26
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    There are a lot of rumors about 6.2 and 6.5 head gaskets. I had to see for myself which one I thought would be the best option for a turbo application.

    I went into O’Reilly auto parts and compared both head gaskets.

    The top gasket is for a 84 6.2.

    The bottom is for a 93 6.5.



    The cylinder holes on the 6.2 look uneven and not a perfect circle.

    The cylinder holes on the 6.5 look like a perfect circle.

    The 6.5 fire rings look stronger and a tad thicker.

    The 6.5 seems to have more material between cylinders then the 6.2.

    When flipped over, the 6.5 has more metal protection material then the 6.2.



    When putting them together to compare, all holes are exactly the same except the 6.5 has this small hole on the end where the 6.2 does not.



    Back at home I measured the cylinder holes of the old 6.2 head gasket and the new 6.5 head gasket. They both measured the same except the uneven part on the 6.2 cylinder ring was 1mm wider and the rest of the ring was the same.







    My choice in head gaskets for the 6.2 is plain as day. IMO the 6.5 head gasket is more superior.

    If the banks turbo ever fails, you can not just call banks and get a replacement. They don’t make the turbos anymore, I have 2 other turbos I can replace it with if it fails. (GM5/Hx35w) So I am thinking of the future, potentially more boost with a bigger turbo if it comes to that.
    Last edited by 2INSANE; 10-09-2020 at 09:58.

  7. #27
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    Another rumor in regards to head gaskets I would like to put to rest once and for all.

    The claim I have read dozens of times to use a .10 thickness head gasket to lower compression for more boost is IMO not a good idea and is false.

    I base my judgement on the many build repairs I have read and personal experience.

    The .10 thicker gasket has more material, which means that is more prone to blowing out from the added boost. Also I believe there is less surface pressure when torquing the .10 head gasket down.

    That is why I choose to use a standard thickness head gasket.

  8. #28
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    The claim I have read dozens of times to use a .10 thickness head gasket to lower compression for more boost is IMO not a good idea and is false.
    That should read 0.010" thicker (10 thousandths).

    I recommend the thicker gaskets if the heads/block decks have been resurfaced, which most heads/block need at some point. For example, the 6.5 I have in the shop had its block decks resurfaced, taking 0.005" off the surfaces, so I have the Fel-Pro 0.010" thicker gaskets ready to go on. Piston crown clearance at TDC is pretty close on these engines, even when new.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    That should read 0.010" thicker (10 thousandths).

    I recommend the thicker gaskets if the heads/block decks have been resurfaced, which most heads/block need at some point. For example, the 6.5 I have in the shop had its block decks resurfaced, taking 0.005" off the surfaces, so I have the Fel-Pro 0.010" thicker gaskets ready to go on. Piston crown clearance at TDC is pretty close on these engines, even when new.
    Thanks for chiming in! Love your advice and anyone else’s. I forgot to add that into my last post. For this build I am not resurfacing the heads. I agree that .010 would work great after getting the heads resurfaced.

    In regards to the Arp head studs, what method did you use in your builds with the ARP studs?

    I spent a lot of $$$ on the Arp studs and would like to try and reuse them again but this time with a different thread sealer.

  10. #30
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    In regards to the Arp head studs, what method did you use in your builds with the ARP studs?
    I've not needed studs for any of my builds or those I've been involved with. Fel-Pro brand bolts are a lot cheaper and I believe work better, for most people.

    We put nearly 300,000 miles on our 6.5TD Power Project - the majority of those miles involved towing. The truck also saw many runs on the dyno and spent quite a bit of time as a platform for testing various performance products (i.e. intercooler, water injection, exhaust systems, etc). They were not easy miles. There were no problems with head gaskets.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    I've not needed studs for any of my builds or those I've been involved with. Fel-Pro brand bolts are a lot cheaper and I believe work better, for most people.

    We put nearly 300,000 miles on our 6.5TD Power Project - the majority of those miles involved towing. The truck also saw many runs on the dyno and spent quite a bit of time as a platform for testing various performance products (i.e. intercooler, water injection, exhaust systems, etc). They were not easy miles. There were no problems with head gaskets.

    Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience!

  12. #32
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    Going above and beyond most, I probed the inside of the block with a magnet and picked up quite a bit of metal material. Mostly rust chunks.








  13. #33
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    Bored and twitching from all the coffee, while waiting for the darn lifters to show up (Late shipping) I decided to pull out the ORD motor crossmember brace that has been sitting in my upgrade pile for 7 years.

    Using brake cleaner and a rag, I wiped off all the years of dust and rust that it accumulated.



    Turning the shop fan on and opening the shop doors, I slapped on some PPE and got to spraying the sexy gloss black on the new crossmember.







    I will do three coats. Don’t know why I even paint stuff. It will rust away in a few years anyhow lol!
    Last edited by 2INSANE; 10-09-2020 at 17:04.

  14. #34
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    I took off the ORD motor mounts from both sides of the block to give me access to the motors drain plugs on the block.

    After I am done doing both heads, I plan on draining the remaining nasty coolant from those plugs and flushing out the system.




  15. #35
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    The lifters finally arrived! I put all 16 lifters in a plastic container and poured 15w-40 oil into the container. I will let them sit for 24 hours to totally soak in the oil.

    24 hours might be too excessive but it’s almost bed time and I have to work tomorrow. :-/






  16. #36
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    Something worth mentioning. Last summer 2019 this motor was purchased from Boyce Equipmemt with said 23,000 k miles.

    When I got the motor last summer I added a gear drive to keep the timing true.



    A girdle to prevent cracks.





    A fluidamper which I believe is a absolute must have to prevent crank failure.




  17. #37
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    Other things I did to this motor last summer:

    Got the radiator refurbished with a new 4 core

    Installed the ORD motor mounts

    New G60s glow plugs

    Refurbished oil pan

    Refurbished Timing plate cover with crank seal

    All new gaskets

    New Lift Pump

    New Valve Covers

    Rear Main Seal

    Added the Arp studs

    New water pump

    As you can see I have a lot of time and money vested in this motor. Reguardless of the problems it has a year later, I am not giving up on it until she is beyond repair.

    On another note. When she dies, all her goodie upgrades and parts can be swapped over to another 6.2 or 6.5.




















  18. #38
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    Today is my Sons birthday! 13 years old! I will not do much today to the motor so I can spend some time with him.

    What I did do is put the lifters in. I used brake cleaner and cleaned the bolts and used blue thread lock and tightened the bolts hand tight.

















    Turning the crank in front of the motor to make sure they go up and down without getting stuck on the lifter plates.



    1 lifter was not going down after it went up. Simple adjustment of the plate fixed that problem.

    Also one thing that is very important to address. Whenever the head gets taken off the block, the heads and block start to immediately rust. After 24 hours of exposure you will easily see light surface rust. It is always smart to get the head bolted to the block ASAP. Within 24hrs.

    Since I am leaving the head off the block longer then 24 hours. I put some additional WD-40 on the deck and in the cylinders to help keep the rust down. I had already put oil on the cylinders but it did not work as well.

    Here is some pictures of just a few days of exposure. The surface rust can be removed with a Scott’s pad which is what I will do when I am ready to put the head on.



    Last edited by 2INSANE; 10-10-2020 at 17:47.

  19. #39
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    Today I refurbished the Arp studs. Then cleaned the rust out of the cylinders and got all the Wd-40 off the deck. It’s time!



    Using optimum black I coated the end of the studs and put them in hand tight.





    I took them back out, added more optimum black and put them back in hand tight.







    Cleaned up the excess with paper towel.



    And here they are Again...




  20. #40
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    On with the head gasket. And head.

    I put the Arp nuts and washers in a bag with 10w-40, mixed them up and put them on the studs. Using just the socket, I got the nuts hand tight and started my torque at 25, then 35,45,55,65,75,85,95,105 and the final 115. In sequence according to Arp. Yes I intentionally went to 115 foot pounds with motor oil since I do not have Molly lube.

    In the morning I will check the torque and make sure they are all 115.








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