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Thread: 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build

  1. #61
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    Today I decided to spend 1/2 the day being lazy and went to the hot springs with the family to relax. The other 1/2 of the day was spent taking off the driver side head and cleaning it up along with the deck.



    I got the new lifters in and chased all the head bolt holes with the tap. Did at least 5 passes and each pass I cleaned each hole with brake cleaner. I also cleaned out the cylinders like I did the passenger side and got them wiped with a small amount of WD-40. Before and after pics...





    I then installed the refurbished Arp studs and used the Optimum Black.







    Afterward cleaned the deck and head again with brake clean and then installed the 6.5 head gasket and head. I soaked the washers and nuts in 10w-40 like I did for the Passenger side and used just the socket to get them hand tight on the studs. Then I torqued them starting at 25 foot pounds, then 35,45,55,65,75,85,95,105 and final 115.

    Will let the gasket settle over night and torque it one last time to 115 pounds in the morning before the Optimum black cure time expires.


  2. #62
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    Driver side all buttoned up!


  3. #63
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    Addressing the leaking freeze plug, I drilled a hole into the freeze plug, let it drain and then flushed out the coolant with my hose until there was no more green coolant coming out.











    After the coolant was drained, I used a flathead and hammer on one side of the plug and pounded the side of the plug in so it turned. Once it was turned I used my rat tooth vice grips and pulled the plug out.






  4. #64
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    Just an educated guess... the RTV sealant on the softplug is why it leaked. That's not the recommended sealant.

  5. #65
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    Next I flushed out the other side of the motor with the hose and letting it drain out of the water pump.









    After the whole motor was flushed and drained of all that nastiness, I cleaned the freeze plug hole first with a wire wheel, then Scott’s pad and with brake cleaner.







    Then I cleaned the freeze plug with brake cleaner, put RTV on and pounded it in with my 24mm socket and hammer. Then cleaned off the excess.






  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    Just an educated guess... the RTV sealant on the softplug is why it leaked. That's not the recommended sealant.
    Last winter I accidentally pounded the freeze plug all the way into the motor while putting in a block heater. I could not get it out. I had to pop the other plug next to it to get it out. I was in a hurry and reused the old plug which was pretty bad. It actually held up good. Just a very small drip every once and awhile.

  7. #67
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    Next I wire wheeled the driver side exhaust ports on the motor and cleaned it with brake cleaner.





    Using the copper spray a gasket, I sprayed the motors exhaust ports 1 coat.



    To save time and money, I refurbished each exhaust manifold bolt with the wire wheel. Then I added anti seize on each end of the bolts.





    Then I wire wheeled the driver exhaust manifold, cleaned with brake clean and sprayed 2 coats of the copper gasket maker on it.






  8. #68
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    To install the driver manifold, I put the correct bolts in just the very ends of the manifold and carefully tightened the bolts by hand without letting the manifold touch the block. Then I installed the rest of the bolts by hand leaving the gap between the head and block.



    Starting with the two center bolts I tightened them by hand with my socket until the manifold touched the block. Then I tightened each bolt from center to outward to get an even press. Then I torqued the manifold bolts to 30 foot pounds instead of 18-26 because I added a lot of anti seize.




  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    ...Then I torqued the manifold bolts to 30 foot pounds instead of 18-26 because I added a lot of anti seize.

    I'm curious to know your reasoning for this. With very few exceptions, torque specs assume dry threads. Adding a lubricant to any friction surface (threads, bolt heads or nut faces), such as anti-seize compound, increases the fastener stress and clamping force significantly for the same torque value. I don't know that 30 ft/lb on a lubed exhaust manifold bolt would cause it to yield, but it might. This doesn't take into consideration thermal stresses, so it may be more or less of an issue.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Fabulous car, no problems at all, but sold Nov. 2016 @ 55K miles.
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    I'm curious to know your reasoning for this. With very few exceptions, torque specs assume dry threads. Adding a lubricant to any friction surface (threads, bolt heads or nut faces), such as anti-seize compound, increases the fastener stress and clamping force significantly for the same torque value. I don't know that 30 ft/lb on a lubed exhaust manifold bolt would cause it to yield, but it might. This doesn't take into consideration thermal stresses, so it may be more or less of an issue.
    Thanks for the question!

    There are a few reasons why I did 30ft pounds on the manifold bolts.

    1. According to the install instructions from banks, they say to put anti-seize on the threads and torque to 25 foot pounds. See picture below... That 25 foot pounds is for a said 5-10 psi turbo. I figured the additional 5 pounds would not hurt especially since I am still up in the air on which turbo to use. I Might want to slap on the HX35W for the consistent power, lower egts, less lag, etc... Still debating in my head...



    2. Also Using the Copper spray I believe adds cooshin between the block and manifold. Going a tad tighter made sense to reduce risk of a blow out with the copper spray.

    3. I used the copper spray because of all the corrosion and pits on both the manifolds and head. With that being said, with all the corrosion and pits create less surface pressure increasing even more of a chance for a blow out. By adding the copper spray and going a little bit tighter it reduces that lack of surface pressure. See Corrosion pics below...





    4. Another factor, as I was putting the bolts threw the manifold holes, some dirt got on the threads causing more friction when torquing.

    I was going to explain in the next post as I just finished the passenger side manifold just as you posted your question.

    Also to me, it felt better. 18-25 felt too loose imo.

  11. #71
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    Before installing the passenger side Banks Manifold, I cleaned the pyro probe hole threads with a wire brush and then sprayed it out with brake clean. After cleaning you can see a lot of the threading is deteriorated from corrosion, excessive overheating and over boosting from the previous owner.







    I refurbished every bolt and put anti seize on the ends.



    Next I wire wheeled the manifold, blew it out with compressed air and then cleaned it with brake cleaner on a paper towel. Added 2 coats of the copper spray on the manifold.








  12. #72
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    Then I wire wheeled the exhaust ports and bolt holes, cleaned them with brake clean and added 1 coat of the copper spray.







    Using my same method to install the manifold on the driver side, I got the banks manifold on. Mind the gap:-)





    More Power on the diesel page forums mentioned how close the manifold is to the mechanical fuel pump. I can imagine the crossover pipe would be just as close. It would be a lot of heat in that area. I’ll do a mock up with the crossover tomorrow.

    I really like mechanical things. You never know when the zombie apocalypse will happen. Or a EMP...








  13. #73
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    For ****s and giggles I mocked up the HX35W on the Banks Manifold.

    Woah, this sucker is freaking huge compared to the 6.2!

    I wish I could have this baby on her but I don’t feel comfortable putting it on a 36 year old motor with such high compression. I guess I could turn the waste gate down but I honestly don’t want to get the boost bug.. lol

    When I get excited thinking about the hx35w, read what banks has to say...












  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    Next I flushed out the other side of the motor with the hose and letting it drain out of the water pump.









    After the whole motor was flushed and drained of all that nastiness, I cleaned the freeze plug hole first with a wire wheel, then Scott’s pad and with brake cleaner.







    Then I cleaned the freeze plug with brake cleaner, put RTV on and pounded it in with my 24mm socket and hammer. Then cleaned off the excess.





    It looks like you have shares in the RTV company...
    If you use it you really should cut down the amount you use all that excess will come loose and plug up your rad or pickup screen for your oil pump.Just a thin smear to coat stuff,unless you are using it to make a gasket like the valve covers or oil pan.
    I have pulled a lot of oil screens with silicon tendrils plugging off the screen.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    It looks like you have shares in the RTV company...
    If you use it you really should cut down the amount you use all that excess will come loose and plug up your rad or pickup screen for your oil pump.Just a thin smear to coat stuff,unless you are using it to make a gasket like the valve covers or oil pan.
    I have pulled a lot of oil screens with silicon tendrils plugging off the screen.
    Thanks for the advice!

  16. #76
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    Today after work I went to a friends house and made a deal. In return, he gave me most of his serpentine pulleys, the tensioner, dual thermostat water cross over, 6.5 timing plate and 6.5 alternator.

    Got home and started cleaning up the Banks turbo. First I wire wheeled all the rust from the exhaust flanges.













    Then for the oil drain I cleaned it with brake cleaner, wire brushed it and cleaned again with brake cleaner.






  17. #77
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    Then I wire wheeled the oil drain tube and cleaned it with brake cleaner. To try an experiment I added 3 coats of copper spray on the end of the oil drain and then connected it to the turbo.





    Next I put copper spray on the exhaust flanges.





    I got desperate and I took a step to the auto parts store and picked up 4 grade 8 bolts for the flange because the old bolts were bent.



    Then I installed the turbo and the oil drain hose.






  18. #78
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    Off with the water pump and plate! Wire wheeled the block where the water pump plate went. Don’t forget the holes!









    Using the angle grinder, I refurbished the 6.5 water pump plate. It was bad and a lot of work!








  19. #79
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    Comparing the 6.2 water pump plate to the 6.5 water pump plate. The bolt hole pattern is exactly the same just in reverse. I feel kinda bad for the 6.2 water pump because it’s less then 1 year old. Maybe I can sell it or use it for the spare 6.2 motor I have. Hmm..






    Also the reason why I wear a full respirator is because there is a lot of harmful chemicals I am dealing with.

    Aluminum Oxide
    Brake Cleaner fumes
    Rtv fumes
    Asbestos from old gaskets
    Dirt
    Rust
    Spray paint fumes
    Copper Spray fumes
    Diesel Fuel fumes is harmful as well
    I imagine coolant fumes is bad too
    Fibers in the air from the Grinder disks

    A full respirator with organic filters are a MUST HAVE! It’s about time to replace my filters. I strongly encourage anyone doing this kind of work on their motor to wear one!


  20. #80
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    Can anyone help me figure out how to run the dual alternators with serpentine belt without A/C and without the vacuum pump? Anyone got a link or some pictures of that kind of a set up?

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