Right now, I am waiting for the experimental water pump to show up. While I am waiting, I decided today to go back to the Fuel Injection Pump woes...
First off, after more research I come to find from The Diesel Page books the badger diesels injection pump I bought was actually for a 92 6.2 diesel. It was tuned and calibrated for the 92. The posting was for all 6.2 diesels but learning now that not all 6.2 injection pumps are the same. There are certain pumps made for certain years and model motor. Badger diesel should have known better before selling their pumps as an all general use.
Awe well... So looking at the original J code injection pump that came with this motor, low miles, but weather worn because there was no hood on the donor.
I was able to remove the bolt that corroded and broke. I used my torch to heat up the aluminum to help separate the threads from heat expansion. Since I have many spare injection pumps, I pulled the oldest and crappest one out of one of my 6.2 spare part boxes.
Taking off the good parts I needed, I then took off the cap on the good injection pump, throttle position sensor, rocker arm and throttle shaft.
The goal is to replace the old rubber O-rings on the throttle shaft to prevent the very common fuel leak from that area, replace the broken bolt and lever. But darn it! The parts store is closed! Lol!
more pics on next post...
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Well I’m glad you are not commenting about how bad of a job I am doing on the motor! Lol! I’ve been telling myself to quit smoking for 21 years now. I got the coronavirus this February and it was horrible! I figure I might as well try to prevent further damage with the respirator. Maybe I’ll live longer then my father whom died at age 53 from brain cancer because of the 30 years as a painter and breathing fumes that whole time. He was not a smoker. My grandma who smoked 3 packs a day lived to 80 years of age. All things in moderation I guess... Cell phones, microwaves, radio waves, TVs, plastics, stick free pans, Pick your poison...
I finished doing the throttle shaft O-Rings and put the injection pump back together.
Cleaned up the injection pump mounting locations with brake cleaner and a paper towel. Got the new injection pump gasket on.
I installed the ip and refurbished the 3 gear bolts, added blue lock tight and torqued to 20 foot pounds
Then installed the three nuts mounting the ip to the timing plate and made sure the 2 timing marks are perfect.
Then I cleaned up the rear coolant plate covers with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Then refurbished the bolts and reinstalled the plates with the bolts in their correct locations. Making sure the longer grounding bolt has a very generous amount of lock tight on it.
I don’t like to waste and spend much money if I can. I squeezed every last bit of rtv from the tube that had hardened on the end and got the job done!
Here are some torque specifications for most all 6.2 diesels. I had found this years ago and kept it in my records. Hope this helps.
6.2 torque specs
ALL in ft lbs unless otherwise mentioned.
Bellhousing - 30
Cam Gear - 75
Cam Thrush Plate - 17
Connecting Rod nuts - 48
Crankshaft Pulley - 30
Cylinder Head (3 steps) 20 / 50 / +90 degrees
Engine Mount to Block - 75
Engine Mount to Frame - 50
Exhaust Manifold - 26
Flywheel bolts - 65
Front cover bolts - 33
Glow Plugs - 156 in/pd use anti-seize
Harmonic Balancer - 200
Injector Lines - 19
Injector Nozzle - 50
Injector pump Retaining nut - 30
Injector Pump Gear bolt - 20
Injector Pump Baffle bolt - 33
Intake Manifold - 31
Lifter Guideplate - 18
Main Bearing caps inner 110 / outer 100
Oil Cooler Line to Filter - 12
Oil Cooler to Rad -25
Oil Pump Drive bolt - 31
Oil Pump Retaining bolt - 65
Oil Pan Plug - 20
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts 38-40 ft-lbs (use loc-tite)
Pulley to Damper - 20
Rocker Arm Cover - 16
Rocker Arm Shaft - 40
Starter Bolts - 35
Thermostat Housing - 35
Turbocharger to Manifold - 37
Vibration Damper - 200
Water Crossover to Head - 31
Water Pump to Cover - 31
Water Pump Plate to Pump - 16
Vacuum Pump Retaining nut - 31
Valve Covers - 16
Oil Pan bolts - inch lbs
rear 2, 84
others 204
Body Mounts - Bolts - 55, Nuts 35
I believe there was an article or several posts about mods needed to get the duel thermostats to work with the mechanical linkage. Might try a search for that.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
-Patrick Henry
A5150nut
2006 K3500 D/A
94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold
You are showing a lot of pic's and doing a good job on the motor so that is great
I was a pack a day smoker since i was a teen,i quite once my daughter was born.I didn't want to be a bad influence on her.I quit drinking around the same time.I decided that it didn't make sense to pay some faceless company good money to slowly kill me.
Plus our daughter is a bright girl and we managed to put away enough money for her to have a University education of her choice.A lot of hard decisions were made over 20 years but worth it. She is in her 3rd year and has been averaging A- grades.I am so proud of her for choosing a path and excelling in it.
Unfortunately for me she chose sides in the divorce and i haven't heard from her in 17 months.
But i live in hope that one day i will get a call that starts"Dad... "
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
Want a picture of what i did for the throttle and dual t stat setup?
You will have to cut the outlet housing and have it re welded to make it work.
I did a mechanical conversion on a 98 and had to build a special throttle plate/holder on that one too,but the outlet housing didn't get altered on the 98.
90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews
So, today I am taking a few steps back. I decided to remove the injection pump and timing plate because when I removed the water pump plate, there is a chance that I disturbed the timing plate gasket which would cause a coolant leak.
I am glad I removed the timing plate because I can see that an oil leak started from the lower part of the pan and timing cover. Also the crank shaft timing plate seal was leaking as well.
I will refurbish the nuts and bolts this weekend and clean off all the gaskets. My goal is reinstall everything in the same day before the RTV cure time expires. Plus I am waiting on the water pump to arrive which gives me time to go threw all the little things. I will tap and clean all the bolt holes as well.
In an earlier post I had mentioned that I would show you all the gaskets that had the Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket on them.
I had also mentioned that I assumed it would clog all the holes on the gaskets before I inspected them.
I was wrong! The copper spray worked like a charm! No holes on the gaskets got closed like they would if I ran stop leak, which has happened before...
My official review on this product is 5 stars out of 5!
Because of my increased fuel timing and failing Arp studs I overheated at 90 degrees ambient outside air temperature. My coolant temperature got to 220 degrees.
The heads and block had no cracks after that excessive short period of overheating.
And that is what this product is meant for! It seals and improves heat transfer.
I recommend this product on all head gaskets! Especially when using the TTY head bolts because I had head gasket fitment issues both times I used the Arp studs making it almost impossible to not mess up the head gaskets fresh coat of copper spray.
The simple FACT that I had to use a chisel to pry off the heads is proof that this product seals like superglue reducing chances of head gasket failure.
Just be careful when you use it! This product is toxic!
Last edited by 2INSANE; 10-21-2020 at 16:09.
Omg! When I read back to myself what I wrote, it sounds like I’m doing a commercial! Lol!
I love it when I call up all these different venders and they all talk crap about each other and their products.
I personally have no preference whom I deal with. I only care about cost and performance and if the product will suit my needs.
I am just sayin...
I don’t mind blowing a little cash to try a product out but if it fails, I am not afraid to complain a lot!
Now I would like to talk about Beer! My personal preference is a nicely fresh brewed Scottish Ale from the Bar 3 Brewery here in good old Belgrade Montana!
But since I bought this cheap stuff for a family bbq months ago, I guess I better drink it! LOL! It will save you money!
How about the stock 6.2 crank pulley? Wtf was gm thinking when they designed it! Years of corrosion will soften its metal and make it bend and it will wobble causing the harmonics to go out of wack! Fluidamper or not! It’s a broken crank I see in the future! This inside valley on the crank pulley collects soooooo much dirt, mud, rocks and oil that is not good!
I hopefully see an aluminum crank pulley in the near future. It makes sense!
Not even gonna comment on the OEM 6.5 crank pulley.
IMO some guys insist that OEM is better! I have to disagree in some instances. Technology is constantly getting better to improve our lives! Why fear it? I say utilize it and live better!