No worries. That'll buff right out. J-B Weld if it doesn't.
Which # and side was that? Can't tell from the pics.
Ouch! Now THAT'S a crack!
Casey
1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake, '97 air box; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter; 368K miles and running strong!
That's just depressing as hell.
Understood.
If you're doing it right, the best bubble gum is J-B Weld. Just don't leave it on the bedpost overnight (loses its flavor).
That is exactly the same thing that happened to the engine in my old Dahooooley
Looks to be the same location too.
Large oil squirt holes and very sharp edges on everything.....A recipe for CRACKS.....
So sorry to hear of this debacle......
If it were me I would try to find an early 599 block (These are non squirt blocks)
Actually with the poor luck you are having.....Have you considered one of the knock off's
We have a couple of those still running around here....after several years...no issues.
STAY AWAY FROM THE LATE 506 GM BLOCKS 1998-99-2000
These had problems cracking the #8 cylinder at the top.
The AMG BLOCKS are good.....
The AMG blocks have a different Date code layout in the casting......
2001 and later IIRC
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2007 Chevy Avalanche
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY