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Thread: Flexplate swap - Need help

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Flexplate swap - Need help

    Good Evening Everyone,

    I need some help regarding a flexplate swap. I bought a 6.2L engine (running) 4 months ago, however just a couple days ago I started having issue with the starter. Starter was moving a lot when starting, I removed and re-seated the starter a couple of times, I also bought new starter bolts (just a hair fraction bigger). But soon enough the starter would not line-up with the flexplate teeth and at times the starter would fall behind and hit the flexplate. I'm pretty much frustrated at this point cause now my flexplate teeth are now rounded & smooth .
    Do I have the wrong size starter?
    How can I confirm this starter is the correct one?

    Quick history on recent purchased engine: John got the engine 14 years ago (Engine case block #14022660), but never got to use it cause he sold the truck it was suppose to go in. John can't recall the Year/Make of truck engine came out of, John thinks it was from a 1983 truck (Chevy/GM). John said he bought the starter on amazon (Model: 6469N, Serial: ACL16L1, Volts: 12V).

    My original 6.2L has a crack block (Engine case block #14022660). My question here is could I swap in my flexplate off my crack engine? Both flexplates are NOT a match.

    As you can see in "Picture B" flexplate is off my cracked engine have three small holes above/or below the 3 larger circles, as to "Picture A" is off the recent purchased engine DOES NOT have any small holes above/below the larger circles.

    I know this is a lot of information and hope my pictures help too.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Those are balancing holes in the flexplate. No concern. If it's identical otherwise (all the relevant holes in the right places, same diameter, same offset, same tooth count), it will work. They changed over the years, but are basically identical where it matters.

    If your flexplate or ring gear isn't loose or bent, that's not the problem. Sounds like you've been running without the starter front support bracket?? If so, you're repeating the same problem, and may have serious issues later (such as broken block at the starter boss). In the meanwhile, it sounds like the starter housing nose has been deformed (from the starter not being secured). Not much you can do about that, short of replacing. If your starter is in great shape otherwise, you can replace only the nose. If the starter has some significant miles under it, replace it. And the support bracket.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    Teeth don't look bad,but it looks like you are well on the way to changing it.
    Ditto on the front starter brace.
    You need to get new starter bolts that are original,and a new starter or new starter housing.By using different bolts the housing may be compromised.
    Put it all back to stock before as mentioned you break the starter mount on the block
    Take some pictures of your starter and post them
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  4. #4
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    DmaxMaverick, Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I haven't remove the damaged flexplate yet, thought I get some answers before-hand. I didn't know bout the "front starter support bracket", I learned something new today, I bought my 6.2L back in 2000, I drove it for a year and engine locked up (sort of speak), March of 2020 is when I finally pull the engine out to see what happened - so here I am with another 6.2L motor to drop back in. Come to think bout it now, even back in 2000 the starter never had a front bracket support. Per John the starter is new.

    Question: Since I can swap in my flexplate from my old engine, should I purchase a new starter that went on my old engine? and not use this current starter. What's your thought?
    Last edited by BITS1611; 02-16-2021 at 14:37.

  5. #5
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    If you have 2 starters, maybe one is good, or maybe there's enough parts between them to make a good. They aren't complicated. Plenty of how-to's on Youtube. Or, find a local auto electrical shop and have them refresh it. If that's not your thing, then buy another. Even with the support bracket in place, a starter that's been wobbling around long enough it won't engage properly is toast. Be sure to get the correct support bracket, as they are different between the direct and gear drives (Robyn did a piece on that a while back). Also get a real close look at the block to be sure the starter bolt holes aren't cracked. If it's just cracked, it can be repaired fairly simple, especially if the engine is out. If a piece of the block chunks off, not so much, in or out.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
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    Yukon6.2 thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I'm going to look into getting a front starter bracket. I could go back to the starter bolts that were already on, before I swapped my new ones in (I can't say those bolts are the original). Here are some pictures of the starter per your request. Hope this helps.


    ThanksStarter 6-2L.jpgStarter & flexplate.jpg

  7. #7
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    Morning DmaxMaverick,
    I just have the one starter, however I'll be sure to check the block for any cracks. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.

    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    If you have 2 starters, maybe one is good, or maybe there's enough parts between them to make a good. They aren't complicated. Plenty of how-to's on Youtube. Or, find a local auto electrical shop and have them refresh it. If that's not your thing, then buy another. Even with the support bracket in place, a starter that's been wobbling around long enough it won't engage properly is toast. Be sure to get the correct support bracket, as they are different between the direct and gear drives (Robyn did a piece on that a while back). Also get a real close look at the block to be sure the starter bolt holes aren't cracked. If it's just cracked, it can be repaired fairly simple, especially if the engine is out. If a piece of the block chunks off, not so much, in or out.

  8. #8
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    OK. Your description seemed to suggest you had 2 engines and 2 starters. My misunderstanding.

    By looking at only the pics, I suggest NOT using that starter housing, in any case. Either replace the housing, or the starter entirely, one way or another. Beware of reman's, as they can suffer the same condition from previous use. If a supplier doesn't catch it (they should not honor the entire core charge), they may pass on the problem to the next consumer. Once the bolt holes are no longer what/where they should be, there is no practical way to correct it, short of replacement. Every time the starter engages, it tries to push itself away from the ring gear with tremendous force. Any allowance will eventually cause/continue a failure, either of the starter or the ring gear, or both. It really needs to start from scratch with the correct, undamaged mounting parts, front to back.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  9. #9
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    I'm a cotton headed ninny muggins... Grrr. My heart is beating so fast, I was sold this engine and I didn't see it coming. Ohhh my... I spent $1000 on this motor and in good faith too. What's the next step here?

    After cleaning the starter mount area on the block. What's your thoughts ? Can this be fixed? I'm sooo upset , worst part wife does not know yet (oh boyyy).

    Cracked - Start motor mount.jpgCracked - Start motor mount 02 .jpgCracked - Start motor mount 03 .jpg

  10. #10
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    Well, that explains it. Fortunately, that can be welded and surfaced, and expect good results if the cracks don't run into the threads. Even if they are, it can be "stitched" (a type of thread repair for such cracks) after welding. Consult a good machine shop for all the above. Very fortunate it was caught early, before pieces chunked off. That was next.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #11
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    i'm no expert about anything really, just a backyard hack up here in the frozen north,.
    With my resorces i would braze that,.
    You Definitely need a starter to block brace,. once the brace is on and you new starter bolt are in and properly tight i personally would have no quals about using that engine
    As Dmax said its not a mortal injury.
    1999 chev suburban C2500
    300,000 mi
    1997 tahoe 2dr 4x4 125,000

  12. #12
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    I've changed 6.2 starters in a snow bank because of what is described here. Problems like what are being described here are all the result of not using the front starter support bracket. The Troubleshooting & Repair Guide walks owners through a starter replacement, the right way... shows how to measure gear clearance, and discusses all of the available starters for these engines. Absolute-permanent fixes for problems just like these... from personal first-hand experience.

  13. #13
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    Thanks, I'm sure gonna need that Guide for sure.

  14. #14
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    Thanks Phantom309: I spoke to a welding shop this morning and spoke my case. I know nothing bout welding or know what would work best here in my cracked mount. However, Welder suggested to use "Nickel" for this weld/fix cause its heavier and stronger because of the starter torque he says. Going rate is $115 per hour.

    Any thoughts or suggestion?

    Thanks,



    Quote Originally Posted by phantom309 View Post
    i'm no expert about anything really, just a backyard hack up here in the frozen north,.
    With my resorces i would braze that,.
    You Definitely need a starter to block brace,. once the brace is on and you new starter bolt are in and properly tight i personally would have no quals about using that engine
    As Dmax said its not a mortal injury.

  15. #15
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    A "welder" is not a machine. A welder is a person who can operate the machine(s) at a level of competence. Welding cast iron isn't a walk in the park, in any case. It sounds like you're working in the right direction. The price tag has nothing to do with the quality of the job, but may influence you in the quality you choose. $115/hr isn't an unreasonable rate for any competent shop, or welder, for such a job. -My opinion.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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