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Thread: Arp head studs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Festus, MO.

    Default Arp head studs

    SO it looks like the head gasket / cracked head issue as raised it's ugly head in my garage. Disappearing coolant, dead cylinder at start up that goes away after a few min, etc. Could be a lot of things but my luck will include pulling the heads.

    So if that becomes the case, what is everyone's opinion of the arp head studs in our engines?

    Yes I have a Kennedy chip and GM8 turbo, cooling upgrades, main stud girdle, etc.

    It had head gaskets replaced under warranty and prior to the mods just before 100k. Has 215k on it now.

    Big Green

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Pauline, SC


    If you plan to keep things at stock levels the TTY bolts are the way to go, and you need to use a new set..

    Now if you plan to up the boost and fuel studs MAY be needed, but beware, if you use the sealer ARP recommends they will leak water through the threads and water down your oil...

    I do use them in customer builds but I take several steps to ensure they stay sealed and don't leak water...
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2000


    The recommended Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that automatically compensates for thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel because of the limited fueling capability of the DS/DB fuel injection pump. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax uses TTY head bolts.

    Our 6.5TD Power Project engine (18:1 pistons, marine fuel injection system and all the rest) was assembled using Fel-Pro head gaskets and Fel-Pro TTY head bolts using Fel-Pro's and our own recommended procedure. That engine delivered perfect service approaching nearly 300,000 miles before it was sold to an out-of-state buyer. During that 7 year period and all those miles, the head gaskets were never a problem.

    So, studs are not necessary on a 6.5. Personally, I'd put that stud money into a Holset turbocharger, for a much better return on investment... Jim
    Last edited by More Power; 03-04-2021 at 10:52.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Granby, Missouri, USA


    From everything I've read (no personal experience), using head studs on a 6.5L are very, very tricky to seal up and prevent coolant from leaking. I personally would stick with new TTY bolts.

    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake, '97 air box; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter; 368K miles and running strong!

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