Starter laboring ....now not even clicking ~

[Low_Bridge]

Thank you....... & that's what tech support at Power Master said when I described what was happening over the phone.

They suggested I make sure the solenoid wire had at least 11.5 during start.

Is it hurting anything besides maybe stressing the solenoid?

[DmaxMaverick]

I think you've come full circle, and perhaps replaced what was a good starter. As Robyn said, it's a power issue. What may seem "good" with little or no load, goes away when loaded. You're having a high-load conductor issue, somewhere, despite what else may be amiss.

[DmaxMaverick]

As far as "hurting anything" goes, if the problem is a weak ground, that ground can fry anything it's routing itself through. IF it is a weak ground, and you attempt a start, the starter will try to load the system at about 500 amps. 500 amps through your wiper motor will kill it, for example. Electronics are much more vulnerable. If nothing else is going haywire, suspect the Batt+ circuit, but start with refreshing all the major grounding points, even if you've already done that. Errant grounds risks everything between the head and tail lamps.

[Low_Bridge]

I will admit trying to push through this off the lift. Just trying to clear the path to the garage.

I will solely focus drill down on all connections ~

I have since confirmed my starter shop will rebuild my old starter ~ (thought he may have a part concern previously) So there may be value in getting his evaluation of the old starter?

Is there any value to running a temporary test switch to the from the solenoid to battery to prove out the problem? I Imagine the weak link could be al the way to the ignition switch somewhere?

Thanks!

[DmaxMaverick]

No. The weak link, according to your total symptoms from start to now, suggests the problem is not the ignition circuit. The problem is loss of power under high-load (starter motor engaging). The ignition switch appears to be working fine, as does the balance of the system. It is breaking continuity when you try to start, which means the load is causing a loss of connection, somewhere. This is most often the cable connectors (corroded internally, loss of crimp pressure, etc.), the terminals at the battery connection, or poor (or missing) ground location clamping. If you have a clamp-on style Amp meter, check all the cables while trying to crank, including the crossover between the batteries and every ground conductor from the batteries, and from the block to the frame and/or body. If the amperage is excessive (800+), you have a short to ground. It may also show how much amperage is required to drop the connection, which can be helpful to identify a suspect circuit (each will have a maximum load it can carry, so you can eliminate the lesser circuits). For example (which I suspect you'll find), if the amperage peaks at 250 amps, that eliminates all but the high-load starting circuit, the conduction between the batteries and starter field. Circuits that are overloaded will show damage, either by opening a breaker or fuse, or physical damage to the conductors or connectors. From what you've described, this is happening, somewhere.

[Robyn]

I have seen many battery cables that are originals...or even replacements get really corroded in the jacket where they are crimped to the terminals.

The jackets on the side terminal cable can look fine where you can see....Get back under the jacket and into the stranded wire and it can be an entirely different story.

IF I have a choice I prefer welding cable and use copper solder on eyes...

Strip the jacket back....add flux paste (Do not use acid type) Stick the cable end in the eye socket and then heat up with a propane torch and stuff the solder to it until its full....Let cool.

Pacing some shrink tube over the cable before you put the end on....then shrink it....Looks really top shelf.....

Doing all the heavy cables this way makes a bomb proof set up that will not give issue later.

The solder gets into all the strands and bonds them to the eye.....MAX AMPERAGE/VOLTAGE will be available.

[Low_Bridge]

You know you guys have helped me so much over the years. I should have gone deeper into the electric. (impatient)

Once I can get the truck re positioned I'll do a through check.


I will say that the first time or so the power master was used I don't recall the chatter but that may have been because of the honeymoon syndrome

[Robyn]

Good luck.....
Keep us in the loop.