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Thread: The ol' Tahoe is down for the count - coolant in cylinder(s)

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
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    12,282

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    Guy likely grabbed a converter for a 3/4 ton with a 5.7 gasser.

    That is not a good thing.
    Buttttttttttttttt....you can yank the Tranny and T case back out and down....The swap in the correct one.

    A pain in the butt after all the work.....

    If you don't pull heavy with it....It should be OK....JUST GOING TO RUN A BIT DIFFERENT.

    Where does the lockup clutch apply ???

    Should be at about 45-50 MPH AT MODERATE/LIGHT THROTTLE
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  2. #102
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    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Lock up occurs where it did before, about 55 mph; this is with 3.42 gears and 33" tires, so it's a bit higher lockup speed than stock due to the oversized tires. However, there is about a 500 to 600 rpm difference when locked up, which is much more than before.

    I pull my 21' camper, so the high lockup will be quite annoying when it's not locked up; probably will hurt the MPG department as well.

    I see Transtar makes an upgraded TC for the diesel for a decent price. I'll see if my tranny guy will order that for me.

    To his defense, I looked up where he sourced his converter, and they only list one converter for both gas and diesel. I'm not sure why that it is, but if you go to Rock Auto, they also show the same thing....

    I spent so much time and effort focused on the engine building, I slipped up and assumed my transmission guy would put in the same kind of effort.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Montana
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    389

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    Monster Transmission is good too

  4. #104
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    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
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    I always use a local tranny converter rebuilder.
    If you are using this rig to tow...Get a converter that has the low stall, welded or brazed blades in pump and the turbine.
    Be sure to get a heavy service lockup clutch.

    For the amount of work involved...stay away from the parts houses and online stores.

    Go to a reputable converter rebuilder and spec out what you want.

    The better than lockup clutch...the longer they live....

    These things get the rat crap beat out of them......

    Any other performance upgrades...such as better torrington thrust bearings and such...do it.

    The stock spec stuff that most online stores sell are "Sort of a stock part" IF YOU ARE LUCKY..

    Monster offers some good things.

    Call them up and tell them what you have.
    Rig
    Engine
    Tranny
    Butt gears
    AND WHAT YOU DO WITH IT.
    These guys offer a 1300-1600 stall HD converter.

    They may have something better too..
    Again...A HD lockup clutch if they have it.....GOOD IDEA
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #105
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    Jul 2020
    Location
    Montana
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    Any pics of the motor in your motor bay?

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
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    2,639

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    Any pics of the motor in your motor bay?
    Scroll back one page there are some there.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  7. #107
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    Jul 2020
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    Montana
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    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    Scroll back one page there are some there.
    Sorry, should have been more specific.

    Pics of the turbo, intake, turbo master mounting and air box? Full completed pics

  8. #108
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    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    Sorry, should have been more specific.

    Pics of the turbo, intake, turbo master mounting and air box? Full completed pics

    My air cleaner setup is temporary, I want to build a true cold-air intake system eventually. For now, I ordered some 4" silicone elbows and a K&N filter to get me going:









    I had to build a bracket for the TurboMaster and mounted it to the turbo flange:










    Today I installed a turbo blanket, since I couldn't reuse the original heat shield:







    She's been running great all week and no issues with the engine. She starts great with little smoke, and cold starts in the mid 20's seem to be no effort. I've never had a 6.2L/6.5L (and I've had several) start this easy.

    Video of the quick starting:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RApRxTOmO90

    I'm looking forward to getting the correct torque converter so she will drive easier. Right now it reminds me of a dump truck with an old Allison where you have to mash the throttle and wait for stuff to start moving. It's great for spooling the turbo and hearing the whistle, though!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  9. #109
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    Feb 2006
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    185

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    Can you tell me where you got that turbine housing blanket? Mine's worn out.

  10. #110
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    Jul 2020
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    Montana
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    Thank you for the motor porn. Looks very nice! Have you considered to run a snorkel of some sort to get a true cold/ram air intake? Perhaps an inner cooler for the 7+boost as Jim suggests? What kind of covering is that over the fuel filter and A/C Dryer? The dual gauges on the fuel filter housing is dope! X2 on the turbo blanket! Where did u order that from?

    There is a inline air filter box with a 5” OD that might fit on the Hx35w intake elbow that could help achieve cold air.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9832?rrec=true

  11. #111
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    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Turbo shield:

    https://quadstartuning.com/collectio...-turbo-blanket

    All sorts of cool heat shielding products direct from the manufacturer:

    https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/a...o-heat-shields

    The A/C dryer cover is factory original. The fuel filter cover is of my own design; it's actually a 12V heater; it's original use was for keeping drain pipes from freezing on RV's; it's a peel-and-stick heat pad that I stuck to a piece of sheet metal that is held on to the filter with a hose clamp. The aftermarket Racor filter housing I'm using did not come with any sort of fuel heater, so I came up with this one.

    I would like to go with an intercooler some day. One step at a time!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  12. #112
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    Feb 2006
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    185

  13. #113
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    Feb 2000
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    Montana
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    Quote Originally Posted by arveetek View Post
    Lock up occurs where it did before, about 55 mph; this is with 3.42 gears and 33" tires, so it's a bit higher lockup speed than stock due to the oversized tires. However, there is about a 500 to 600 rpm difference when locked up, which is much more than before.

    I pull my 21' camper, so the high lockup will be quite annoying when it's not locked up; probably will hurt the MPG department as well.

    I see Transtar makes an upgraded TC for the diesel for a decent price. I'll see if my tranny guy will order that for me.

    To his defense, I looked up where he sourced his converter, and they only list one converter for both gas and diesel. I'm not sure why that it is, but if you go to Rock Auto, they also show the same thing....

    I spent so much time and effort focused on the engine building, I slipped up and assumed my transmission guy would put in the same kind of effort.

    Casey
    I love 3.42 gears in a 6.2/6.5 - if the vehicle isn't used to tow heavy.

    I think 55-60 mph is likely where the TC should lock in OD with 3.42 diff gears. Locking sooner would be too low of an RPM, which puts more of the torque impulses into the transmission/driveline. Lil Red with its Duramax/Allison and 3.42 gears also locks the torque converter 55-60. I think we did a story once about a BD 4L80 TC manual/auto lock controller. Have to check the table of contents in the 6.5 books.

  14. #114
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    Jul 2020
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    Montana
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    Casey, I have another question for you. I am not to familiar with Tahoe’s, but I was wondering if you had an RPM gauge and if so, what RPM were you at when you got to 15psi boost?

  15. #115
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    CA
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    All production model civilian 6.5TD's have a tach in the IPC, driven by the alternator.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    Casey, I have another question for you. I am not to familiar with Tahoe’s, but I was wondering if you had an RPM gauge and if so, what RPM were you at when you got to 15psi boost?
    It was fairly short lived, but I believe it was around 2800 rpm in 3rd gear locked, somewhere around 70 mph.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  17. #117
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    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Unhappy Update 12/10/21 - she's down for count.... Again!

    As of 9 pm last night, this is the current status of the ol' Tahoe:









    With only 931 miles on the engine, Tuesday night she suddenly lost power, developed a knock, started missing, and blowing a ton of smoke out the exhaust. The smoke was white, unburned fuel. I was hoping it was just a failed injector. By cracking one line at a time with the engine running, I narrowed the problem down to cylinder 4. Naturally, the cylinder with the problem is the hardest one to access, right behind the turbo.

    Video of engine knocking and missing.

    I ended up removing the turbo to gain better access to the cylinder. I pulled the injector, but there was nothing visibly wrong. I swapped in one of my original injectors, but there was no change. I then had my son crank the engine over with the glow plug removed (and the fuel system deactivated so it wouldn't start), and that's when I realized there is no compression on cylinder 4! I can keep my thumb over the glow plug hole with the engine cranking over, and can only feel a slight puff.

    I removed the valve cover to make sure everything was okay in the valve train, thinking there might be a valve stuck open, a bent pushrod, or something of that sort, but everything is normal in the valve train.

    So after 4 months and thousands of dollars, I'm essentially right back where I started. I still need to swap out the torque converter, so it looks like pulling the engine (again) is in my future.

    I'm nearly sick to my stomach at this point and really discouraged. I can't imagine what went wrong, or what I missed. I did everything by the book to the best of my ability.

    Casey
    Last edited by arveetek; 12-10-2021 at 08:20.
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  18. #118
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    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
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    Wow, that sucks...

    Can you blow air into #4 and see where it's leaking out? Maybe a failed exhaust valve...
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  19. #119
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    That sucks Casey
    Had that sinking feeling once or twice in the past as well.
    Hopefully after coffee and a night of sleep,you will in a better state and tie back into it to solve the issue.
    Try to remember all the trouble free miles you enjoyed in the Tahoe.
    Take Care
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    Wow, that sucks...

    Can you blow air into #4 and see where it's leaking out? Maybe a failed exhaust valve...
    This.
    It may not be that bad. Maybe a gasket or valve/seat. Think positive, for what it's worth.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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