The ol' Tahoe is down for the count - coolant in cylinder(s)

[Robyn]

Yes...I stripped the block down and sent it to the machine shop and we cut the decks.. .010" as recommended did not clean so we went to .015" and got clean metal.

We did both sides the same to keep the compression ratio balanced

Sadly the engine needs to come all the way down to bare bones, cam bearings and all oil passage plugs out....then hot tanked and then machined then rewashed ...

Best plan IMHO is to yank the sucker out and then open it up and see wassssup. My bet is either cyls 1 or 2

JUST A LITTLE HINT.

I have no idea what you have been into...so..

When removing the injector lines
Mark the pairs as to 1-3...5-7 LH and 2-4...6-8 RH and keep them in pairs..connected with the factory clamps.

Make a map of the DS4 rotor head connection as to where the lines all fit.

There are two lines that can be swapped....They run like crap this way....Ask me how I know this....then ya have to rip it apart again. A crow foot and a 3/8 breaker bar work sweet to get at the pump lines.

Take a real good look at the electrical harness that lays in the valley to connect to all the engine connections.

These do get ragged after many years and miles.....Replacement with new may still be possible....IIRC the after market has these harnesses available.

A pain to replace with the intake on......

[arveetek]

I have no idea what you have been into...so..

It's been about 15 years since I've done major engine work. Back then it was when I yanked my 6.2L out of my '81 C20 project to replace a bad lifter; the "Might as Wells" resulted in a fully customized 6.2L that was bored .040 over with custom, ceramic-coated lower-compression pistons, all new fuel delivery system, stud girdle, timing gears, etc, etc. But it's been a few days since I've done anything like that, so I sure do appreciate the tips!

Casey