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Thread: 6.5td stalling

  1. #1
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    Default 6.5td stalling

    my 95 suburban 2500 with the 6.5td has intermittent stalling. A few weeks ago stalled at a red light at idle and wouldn't start. towed to garage. After searching this forum I suspected ignition switch/harness. wiggled wiring harness and started up and drove home no issues. Replaced ignition switch harness and truck started and idled for about 10 mins and died. Upon wiggling wiring harness near where the ignition harness plug is truck started back up. When it stalls there is no dash lights,cranking or anything. radio lights etc still work. PMD is remote mounted in front bumper. Ignition harness connections are tight. I've wiggled and jiggled all wires under the dash and can't replicate the problem to save my life. I'd rather not buy another PMD if its not neccessary. ANY ideas ????

  2. #2
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    When you say it won't start and that there are no dash lights, does that mean when you turn the ignition to "start" that the engine does not crank over? Nothing happens at all? If so, that definitely sounds like an ignition switch/wiring issue. It will not be a PMD issue. PMD issues cause stalling problems, but it won't affect whether the engine cranks over or not.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake, '97 air box; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter; 376K miles - blew head gasket!

  3. #3
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    Correct. Zero dash lights and no crank. nothing happens at all. If I wiggle the wiring harness lights come back on on the dash and she starts right back up. Its only happened twice. Just trying to make sure I was on the right track. Im assuming my wiring issues is lower down than from the ignition plug(below the steering column) since it's brand new. I've started trying to trace wires but it's a rats nest down there. Im assuming its a ground or a hot wire for the ignition thats making it cut out like you turned off the key.

  4. #4
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    Get us a picture of the harness/plug you are talking about and post it.

    Sounds like you need to disconnect that plug, clean the terminals and apply dielectric grease to the contacts.

    Likely one of the terminals has corroded or gotten loose.

    More info please
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
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  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Plug is brand new AC delco part D1481C. I couldn't see how it would already have a loose connection but I guess it's possible. pics are of original.

  7. #7
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    The pins can push out when connected. This can be caused by misalignment (not likely with the original/previous connector) or excessive friction, like from corrosion, which could also cause the original issue. A bit of dielectric grease in the connectors not only helps protect against future corrosion, but also aids with insertion, especially if the contacts are very tight, for whatever reason. I don't think this is your problem, but it is certainly possible.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbagley View Post
    Plug is brand new AC delco part D1481C. I couldn't see how it would already have a loose connection...
    The problem could be in whatever it plugs into...
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC
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    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  9. #9
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    So just wanted to do a quick update. I applied dieelectric grease to the plug and made sure all connections were clean and tight. Took it for a few short drives and it seems to be fine for now. will update later if anything changes. Thanks for the help.

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