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Thread: Injector Replacement Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    26

    Default Injector Replacement Questions

    I'm hoping that someone can help out with these questions. I am not sure if some of the answers will be vehicle specific, but I have a 1992 G20 van with a 6.2 (short injectors):

    Is it necessary to remove the fuel line from both the injector as well as the pump in order to remove an injector?

    What is the fuel line fitting size on the injector side?

    What is the fuel line fitting size on the pump side?

    Is there a preferred tool to use for properly torqueing the fuel line fittings?

    Is it a "must" to replace the intake manifold gaskets if the manifold is removed?

    Any tips/advice for replacing injectors?

    Thanks in advance!
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    Hi
    I will try to give you a few answers.
    You can probably get away with loosening the injector lines at the pump.But if you are planing to remove all the injectors i would remove all the lines,mark the cylinder each line is for they don't get mixed up or installed on the wrong injector.
    Sizes of the fittings i am going to guess at 15mm it's been years since i had a wrench on one.
    I torqued by feel
    If the gaskets are undamaged then reuse them.
    Look for Bosh injectors,or find the oldest injector/pump shop in your area and have them test and reset your injectors.There is always a chance they will have some old stock.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    You can flex the line GENTLY at the valve cover clip to allow the line to move far enough to remove the injector....OR you can remove the clips at the valve cover and then tweak the line a bit.....

    No need to remove the intake to replace the injectors.

    15mm box/open wrench should fit the injector line nuts.

    Been a while.
    Getting lines off the IP requires a crow foot and patience....

    I use the crow foot and a 3/8 break bar.....

    A word of caution if you do go for line removal from the pump.

    There are two lines that can be mixed up....make a diagram before you remove them.

    The injector replace does not require any of the lines or manifold to come off....

    Have fun...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    3,081

    Default

    A 3/4" wrench fits the injection line fittings at both ends (I just replaced all mine; but it was during an engine R&R, so the heads had to come off; therefore I removed all the injection lines).

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Thanks for all of the comments. I am happy to learn that the intake manifold doesn't need to come off. That will make it much quicker/easier. I just went out there to look at things after all your comments. I put a wrench on the injector-side fitting - as Casey mentioned, 3/4" fits (also 19mm). I guess most people don't actually use a torque wrench to tighten them. I looked at some tools that might work if someone wanted to do that. Here is a 19mm line socket (see pic below). There are other designs too. Or as Robyn mentioned, a crows foot could be used. Yukon's comment about looking up the oldest shop in town sounds like good advice - someone who has withstood the test of time. I'm sure the odds of ending up with good parts/work go up by using a company that has been around a while. Thanks again - definitely a big help.

    Line socket.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    I have tried several different tools.
    The lines down lower in the valley come loose easiest with a crow foot and the short 3/8 breaker bar.

    Best to reinstall the lines in the reverse order of the way they came off.

    Keep the lines in the pairs as they are.

    If they get mixed up.....it can be a pain.

    I always grab some duct tape and tag each pair as to which cylinders they feed.....

    I bought a box of used lines at a garage sale once....Great shape....but I ended up having to compare them to some on an engine to figure out where they fit.

    I have been asked ...WHY THE GOOFY SHAPES to the lines.

    SO THE LENGTH IS IDENTICAL ON ALL LINES ...This keeps the cylinder to cylinder timing exactly the same.....
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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