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Thread: Replace fuel filter now no start

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbeaird View Post
    Nothing worked, except pulling a vaccuum on the assembly via the bleeder screw.
    I think that eliminates a leak on the suction side as a possible cause, which leaves the primer pump as the most likely suspect.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

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  2. #22
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    Installed the rebuild kit. The pump seals were hard and worn, so they were suspect. After putting everything back together, however, we're still not getting it to start. I DID just do the top end of the rebuild kit, but since I'd have to pull the assembly off to do the o-rings on the underside, I've just gone ahead and ordered a new filter housing. I should be able to pick it up Tuesday at my local parts house. It'll probably be in my hands before the NAPA rebuild kit ships (which hasn't happened YET!).

    We tried pumping it a couple of hundred times, with no luck. Tried gently-pressurizing the tank and cranking the engine over. Tried gently-pressurizing the tank and pumping the priming pump, and, again, still nothing.

    Still digging our new Honeywell portable A/C out in the shop, though!! :-)
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  3. #23
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    When you R/R the old hose connections, make sure the clamps are reinstalled exactly as they came off. The clamps will have embossed the hose, and if not reinstalled exactly as before, they will likely leak.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  4. #24
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    Than you. Yes. And I do plan to reuse those spring-style clamps. Any 'secrets' for getting the old hoses off the metal lines? I'm sure they've annealed themselves to the metal by now.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  5. #25
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    No secrets. Just don't try to pry under the hose unless you plan on replacing it (damages the sealing surfaces). If they're fused to the nipples, try to rotate the hose a little, and wiggle it back and forth while pulling away. If they won't budge with only hand pressure, I use a slip-joint plier or channel lock to gently persuade them. If that doesn't work, it generally requires replacement. Sometimes, you can get away with shortening and/or splicing them. The OEM hoses are formed, so bulk hose can present problems, either by being oddball size, or not liking to bend enough (kinks). Barbed couplers and alternate pieces of hose can be used, if it comes to that, while the OEM hose is on order. Pressure and temperature isn't extreme, so fuel compatibility and a good seal is all that's really needed.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #26
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    Yeah, wanted to avoid slip-joint pliers, as they'll cut into the old hoses, even with the lightest of pressure, it seems. I don't think there's enough 'excess' hose to cut and reuse. GM isn't known for being generous in any way.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbeaird View Post
    HUH. 2002 Service Manual Silverado/Sierra, page 6-3191 shows a frame-mounted fuel pump fr the 6.6. This FSM seems to be pretty content-free for usable information, though, so I guess it's possible. With the fuel filter full, I'll try the pressurize the tank and crank method.

    This thing has been 100% trouble free until now.
    The chassis cabs and other commercial builds for these trucks had 2 tanks... A "lift" pump (or more rightly named transfer pump) was used in those applications, to move fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. In those commercial applications, the transfer pump doesn't move fuel from the tank to the engine. Pickup trucks, on the other hand, were never given a fuel lift/transfer pump at the factory because they only have one fuel tank. The service manuals include the fuel pump electrical diagrams and service data for them because a mechanic could encounter one. It would have been nice if the manuals stated which trucks would have an electric fuel transfer pump - to avoid confusion.

    I changed the fuel filter on two separate Duramax pickup trucks last year. The pumping plunger on each truck primed the fuel system relatively fast.

    One tip I recommend is to loosen the fuel tank cap while changing/priming the fuel filter. This helps to prevent either pressure or vacuum inside the tank from affecting the process. Pressure could cause a spill problem when the filter is removed, or a vacuum problem could fill the entire fuel supply line system with air when the filter is off. Each problem makes changing a filter harder.

    Good luck, and let us know what solved your problem. Jim

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    The chassis cabs and other commercial builds for these trucks had 2 tanks... A "lift" pump (or more rightly named transfer pump) was used in those applications, to move fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. In those commercial applications, the transfer pump doesn't move fuel from the tank to the engine. Pickup trucks, on the other hand, were never given a fuel lift/transfer pump at the factory because they only have one fuel tank. The service manuals include the fuel pump electrical diagrams and service data for them because a mechanic could encounter one. It would have been nice if the manuals stated which trucks would have an electric fuel transfer pump - to avoid confusion.

    I changed the fuel filter on two separate Duramax pickup trucks last year. The pumping plunger on each truck primed the fuel system relatively fast.

    One tip I recommend is to loosen the fuel tank cap while changing/priming the fuel filter. This helps to prevent either pressure or vacuum inside the tank from affecting the process. Pressure could cause a spill problem when the filter is removed, or a vacuum problem could fill the entire fuel supply line system with air when the filter is off. Each problem makes changing a filter harder.

    Good luck, and let us know what solved your problem. Jim
    Thanks for the description, Jim. Funny, the FSM doesn't mention that it's a 'transfer' or 'aux' pump, just that it's a pump. All priming attempts post the first day have been with the gas cap off. We have drain buckets under the filter housing when swapping them out, and even open the WIF draw a bit to make sure at least some of the fuel drains from the filter to hopefully minimize spillage.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  9. #29
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    Success!!!!!

    Got the new filter housing, Baldwin filter, aluminum bleeder screw and WIF Plug installed on our truck. With my bum shoulder, my bride was very instrumental in getting this accomplished. As Jim mentioned, it primed very fast, once all the parts are working as expected! On the third pump, I knew things were different, and hoping that was a good difference. It was. I bled the system 3X, with the 3rd time bubbling mostly fuel. Had my trusty assistant try to start the truck, and on the third spin, it fired right up, and idled perfectly smooth. ZERO perceived surge at idle.

    The A/C is still leaking down, though. I was hoping it was just the leaking cycling switch, but it seems that's a no. Now guessing the schrader valves need replacing. Sigh. That'll be next, but for now, just happy we have a running truck. We can how go to our next autocross event!!

    When I was pulling the passenger-side inner fender liner, the following bit dropped out at the back of the wheel well. Any idea what it is? I'm guessing it's some sort of cab ventilation flap, to prevent the cab from pressurizing, but don't know for sure. I guess I can dig through the FSM, but right now, I need to go wash diesel off of me.

    truck bit1.jpgtruck bit 2.jpg

    Thanks, all, for the help and patience with me as we worked through this experience. This has been a great truck, except for this one thing. Hopefully, we can go many more years before that filter has to be replaced again.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  10. #30
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    Did you see Robins post on her schrader valve tool?
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
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  11. #31
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    I don't get over to this part of the interwebs that often, so no, I didn't. Do you mean this post:

    https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...der+valve+tool

    ? Looks like it could be a cool tool, but not certain how to make that work with the QD fitting on the respective ports on the truck. Nice to know that kind of tool exists, though, should I need it for the home condensing unit. I'll probably just pull off as much freon as I can, R&R the valve and then vacuum and recharge the system.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbeaird View Post
    I don't get over to this part of the interwebs that often, so no, I didn't. Do you mean this post:

    https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...der+valve+tool

    ? Looks like it could be a cool tool, but not certain how to make that work with the QD fitting on the respective ports on the truck. Nice to know that kind of tool exists, though, should I need it for the home condensing unit. I'll probably just pull off as much freon as I can, R&R the valve and then vacuum and recharge the system.
    "Schrader" valve is only a description of a type of QD (Quick Connect/Disconnect) fitting. They are many different sizes and configurations, but all work about the same. A schrader valve tool for your home HVAC would work essentially the same as one for your vehicle(s). Schrader valves for refrigeration systems are almost always the same, respective of the refrigerant used in the system. The tool Robyn has/used allows the replacement of a valve core with minimal loss of refrigerant. If your system has leaked all the way down, then a vac/fill may be the best option. If it's only leaked enough to cause pressure switch cycling, then using a valve tool for a leaking schrader valve may be the best option. HVAC servicing has become increasingly more costly, and any DIY solution is almost always a fraction of a professional service price tag.

    It's great to hear you're up and running otherwise.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    "Schrader" valve is only a description of a type of QD (Quick Connect/Disconnect) fitting. They are many different sizes and configurations, but all work about the same. A schrader valve tool for your home HVAC would work essentially the same as one for your vehicle(s). Schrader valves for refrigeration systems are almost always the same, respective of the refrigerant used in the system. The tool Robyn has/used allows the replacement of a valve core with minimal loss of refrigerant. If your system has leaked all the way down, then a vac/fill may be the best option. If it's only leaked enough to cause pressure switch cycling, then using a valve tool for a leaking schrader valve may be the best option. HVAC servicing has become increasingly more costly, and any DIY solution is almost always a fraction of a professional service price tag.

    It's great to hear you're up and running otherwise.
    Yes, I know that. I've spent some time in residential HVAC work, in a previous life, and maintain our vehicles' systems myself. I'd have to have a closer look, but IIRC, the charging ports require a QD connector, and there is no way to thread the end of the tool on the port. I don't know if there's a QD connector that has a metal adapter to thread to the tool. All I have seen for automotive use are flexible ends that connect the servicing lines to the charging ports on the vehicle. Again, I'd have to do some searching.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  14. #34
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    The first one in a search:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085VGN791
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    The first one in a search:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085VGN791
    Ahh, I saw no links in her post, but this is VERY helpful. Ordered! Thank you!!
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  16. #36
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    Got the race car to, and from the event today with zero issues from the truck! Car got hot again, so we packed it in early. Ran out of time to test the schrader valve replacement tool, maybe this next weekend. Thanks, all!
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  17. #37
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    Thanks for the update. I'm looking forward to your experience with the tool. I don't have one, but may need one soon.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    Thanks for the update. I'm looking forward to your experience with the tool. I don't have one, but may need one soon.
    Will do. Yeah I get a puff of pressure when I pull the low-side cap off. I think the high side port is leaking on our 95 SS.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbeaird View Post
    Success!!!!!

    Got the new filter housing, Baldwin filter, aluminum bleeder screw and WIF Plug installed on our truck...
    Good job!

    About 4 years ago or thereabouts, I visited a local diesel shop for some service I didn't want to do... They recommended that they rebuild my truck's original fuel filter housing due to problems with the pumping plunger mechanism in a certain percentage of other trucks they've serviced. It was pretty cheap, so I said "Go ahead". Might be a good thing to do for most of us... Jim

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    Thanks for the update. I'm looking forward to your experience with the tool. I don't have one, but may need one soon.
    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    Thanks for the update. I'm looking forward to your experience with the tool. I don't have one, but may need one soon.
    FINALLY, an update! Been a while, I know, but we have many, many other projects in the shop. The tools are 'okay'. While they look nice, they're kind of mid-pack in the 'precision' department. In fact, I discovered the locking ring for the valve remover tool was malformed and came off when I was applying refrigerant oil to the mechanisms. Luckily, that part of the high and low side are the same, so I just used the other one.

    It takes some 'fiddling' to get the schrader removal tool down on top of the schrader valve. Once locked in, it does pull the valve back up into the back chamber for R&R. The SS, is seems didn't have any pressure remaining, but I still used the tool. The truck was still pressurized, so when I got the valve loose enough to allow refrigerant to escape, it popped the tool up with the pressure. Unfortunately, it didn't take the valve with it, so I had to go back in, grab it, and continue to use pressure on the tool to 'spin' the valve up and out so it came up with the tool. Once I did that, the operation worked, as-expected.

    My back was starting to spasm, as I'd been spending most of the day half-way bent over car fenders on other projects, so didn't get the high-side valve replaced. Maybe tomorrow, since we're off.

    I'd probably still get this tool, as it does seem to have some utility, but it is 'fidgety' at best. I used the schrader valves that came with the tool. I probably need to get some better valves, but I'm kind of guessing they all pretty much come from the same factory in Shengen, anyway.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

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